by 505 Outside | Oct 7, 2026 | Do It Yourself (DIY), Home Page, Watering and Irrigation, Watering Recommendations
In our hot, arid climate, drip irrigation efficiently waters trees, shrubs and other landscape plants by delivering the right amount directly to roots, promoting healthier plants and reducing waste. The drip systems greatest advantage is flexibility. It’s easy to install and modify a drip system as a landscape grows and changes. However, they can be incredibly wasteful if not installed and maintained correctly. Like many things, it’s easiest to learn from mistakes. We compiled the most common drip irrigation mistakes we see in our Albuquerque landscapes.
Mistake 1: Not installing a drip filter/pressure regulator combination.
Average water pressure in Albuquerque ranges from 45-80 PSI, but drip irrigation systems have been designed to operate best at 25 PSI. All drip systems should have a pressure regulator to reduce the pressure and a filter to screen dirt and debris from water. If you notice drip emitters are popping off or leaking, then the water pressure is too high. Install a drip filter/pressure regulator combination downstream of the valve, immediately after the backflow preventer or vacuum breaker. If your system has a pressure reducer but emitters keep popping out of the ¼-inch distribution tubing then the end of the tubing may have become stretched. If so, cut off a small section of the tubing and reinstall the emitter into the fresh tubing to create a more secure fit.
Mistake 2: Relying on the existing sprinkler heads and sprinkler lines for drip irrigation.
Don’t rely on the old piping when converting sprinklers to drip. Abandon all old PVC and galvanized lateral lines and install sprinkler irrigation directly downstream of the valve assembly and backflow preventer. You may have seen the spray-to-drip retrofit kits locally available and wonder if this is a good approach. We don’t recommend this approach because studies show that nearly half of the water saved from converting a lawn to a xeriscape comes from abandoning leaky underground piping and fittings. Install your drip directly downstream of the valve assembly. Click here to learn how..
Mistake 3: Not burying or covering drip irrigation tubing.
One of the best ways to extend the life of your drip system is to keep it out of direct sunlight and hidden from rodents. Although drip tubing is UV-resistant, prolonged exposure to the sun gradually breaks down the plastic, making it brittle causing it to weaken and leak over time. To protect from the elements, ½” and ¾” distribution tubing should be installed with landscape staples and buried in a 4-6” depth trench and cover with 3-4″ of mulch.
Polyline drip tubing buried underground.
Mistake 4: Going over instead of under retaining wall.
Avoid running drip tubing over the top of retaining walls (or landscape edging) whenever possible. A better option is to install a PVC sleeve beneath the wall before construction. Be sure to cover both ends of the sleeve with tape to prevent soil and debris from entering during construction. When you’re ready to install the irrigation system, simply feed the drip tubing through the sleeve. The sleeve protects the tubing from damage while also providing a convenient pathway for future repairs, replacements or system modifications.
Irrigation PVC sleeve under concrete.
Mistake 5: Runs of ¼-inch distribution line (often called spaghetti tubing) that are too long.
In a perfect world, these smaller tubing lengths wouldn’t exceed 2 or 3 feet between the larger lateral tubing (½-inch or ¾-inch size) and the base of the plant. Keeping ¼-inch distribution tubing short, pinned down with landscape staples, and covered effectively with mulch helps prevent pressure loss from long runs plus reduces the opportunity for physical damage from UV sunlight, rodents or dogs.
Mistake 6: Having unnecessary fittings.
Every fitting creates an opportunity for leaks, compared to a continuous run of tubing. Whenever possible, use a single uninterrupted length of tubing. For example, if the tubing can be gently bent around a corner without kinking, there is no need to install a 90-degree elbow fitting,
Lots of dripline connectors and long runs of ¼” distribution tubing – likely leading to damage and leaks.
Mistake 7: Not using enough landscape pins or staples.
Properly securing irrigation tubing with staples keeps it in place. Temperature fluctuations can cause the lines to expand and contract, which, over time, can allow the tubing to migrate to the surface, exposing it to sunlight and physical damage. Pin down the larger lateral supply line tubing and use at least one landscape pin on each ¼-inch tubing line to prevent the emitter from moving away from the plant’s root zone.
Mistake 8: Insufficient emitters for existing trees and plants.
This problem is most common when a lawn is converted to a xeriscape landscape with drip irrigation. Existing trees may have relied on sprinkler irrigation for many years, allowing their roots to spread throughout the lawn and often well beyond the edge of the canopy. When sprinklers are removed, homeowners or contractors sometimes replace the irrigation with just two or three emitters near the base of a mature tree. This does not provide enough water, and the water is not being applied where the majority of the feeder roots are located. This issue also occurs in newly installed landscapes when plants receive too few emitters; if the emitters are not repositioned, the problem continues as the plants mature. For newly installed landscapes use our Irrigation Guide page 28 to learn how many emitters should be installed per plant.
Newly installed tree watering system around a newly planted tree
Tree watering system around existing tree to accommodate watering of the root zone around the large existing tree.
Mistake 9: Not separating trees and perennials into different irrigation zones.
We often find that customers have their low water use plants and medium water use trees on a single drip irrigation zone. One of the best irrigation practices – called ‘hydrozoning’ is to place trees and desert-friendly plants on separate watering zones. This allows each plant grouped by water need type to receive water according to its specific needs. Established trees typically benefit from deep, infrequent watering once or twice per month, while smaller plants generally require more frequent watering, often two to three times per week during the growing season. Separating these plants into different zones improves water efficiency, promotes healthier root systems and helps prevent both overwatering and underwatering. Occasionally, we come across a single irrigation zone or valve that contains both sprinklers for grass and drip irrigation for plants — this should always be avoided because it results in overwatered plants or underwatered grass.
Mistake 10: Not keeping emitters visible.
When walking through your newly installed landscape, you should be able to see the drip emitters positioned 2 to 3 inches above the mulch or gravel. (Emitters should also be placed on the uphill side of the plant.) Keeping emitters visible during the establishment period makes it much easier to verify that they are working properly and delivering water where it is needed. While they may not be the most attractive feature at first, the emitters will become less noticeable as plants grow and fill in. In a mature landscape, however, they can become hidden by plant growth and groundcover. In this case, the overall appearance and health of the plants provides clues if an irrigation problem exists. When you do need to locate an emitter, try listening when the drip zone first turns on. The sound of water flowing through the emitter can often help you pinpoint its location.
Emitter next to shrub.
Mistake 11: Using specialty parts that aren’t readily available at most irrigation or hardware stores.
When designing and installing your drip irrigation system, it’s best to use common, readily available parts. Choosing specialized components that are difficult to find or incompatible with standard fittings can lead to frustration, delays in repairs and resulting plant stress when repairs or replacements are needed in the future. We recommend purchasing supplies from irrigation specialty stores, as they offer higher-quality products, stock the same parts from the same manufacturers, and have experts available that can answer your questions. Be selective in the parts you purchase and keep a stash of extra parts in your toolbox so you can make a quick repair and avoid wasted water or stressed plants.
Learn More Here:
Irrigation Efficiency Guide
Irrigation 101 Video Tutorials
Take the Guesswork Out of Programming an Irrigation Controller
Yes You Can Afford and Irrigation System
Tree Watering System
Author: Carl Christensen, Xeriscape Inspector. Have a question about the article or anything else? [email protected]
by 505 Outside | Oct 5, 2026 | Grasses, Home Page, Ornamental Grasses
Type: Evergreen
Exposure: Sun/Shade
Water Use: Medium
Mature Size: 18’ x 18’
Junegrass (also known as prairie Junegrass) is a cool season native perennial bunchgrass that is drought tolerant and grows well in dry soils. It forms clumps of fine textured blue green leaves with spikes of feathery silver seed heads appearing in late spring to early summer and drying to a tan color as the seed matures. Junegrass can self-seed but not aggressively. The clumps are 10-24 inches tall and can grow to a foot across the spreading tops.
Junegrass is considered a low to moderate water use plant, adaptable to many soil types. It prefers well-drained sandy, rocky or dry soil, and does not do well with heavy clay or wet soil. It does not thrive in hot, humid conditions, and can go dormant in the heat of the summer. It is hardy in USDA zones 3-9.
A lovely specimen grass, Junegrass can be grown in containers. It also looks great in mass plantings or in meadows of mixed native grasses like blue grama, side oats grama and Indian rice grass, along with wildflowers such as asters, coneflowers and penstemons.
Like most grasses, maintenance consists of simply cutting the grass back to a few inches close to the base in early spring before new growth begins. Any seed left on the standing plant over the winter can provide food for birds.
This grass has a fine delicate appearance, and the fresh forming seed spikes are striking when the sun catches the small, feathery heads. You may come upon this grass while hiking on a mountain trail in sunny openings between the trees.
Author: Wes Brittenham, artist, gardener and writer.
by 505 Outside | Aug 31, 2026 | Fall, Planting, Xeriscape
Fall blooming plants and changing leaves can be just as exciting as the bright colors of spring and summer flowers. Fall is also an excellent time for planting: Temperatures begin dropping, making it easier for young plants to become established, and the cooler weather creates a more enjoyable time for gardeners to work outside.
Here are five great flowering options that offer a range of colors:
You don’t have to choose between blooms and red leaf color. Dwarf plumbago (Ceratostigma plumbaginoides) is a groundcover with bright blue summer and fall blossoms, spectacular red leaf color in late fall, interesting seedheads and excellent shade tolerance.
Many ornamental grasses have interesting seed heads in fall bringing soft colors and beautiful texture to autumn landscapes.
- The many species of muhly grasses (Muhlenbergia spp.) are especially easy to grow and have lovely seed heads. You really can’t go wrong with a muhly grass: They are tough and add amazing texture and contrast to any landscape.
- Pink muhly (M. capillaris) tolerates heat and drought and is covered in mounds of stunning delicate pink seed heads in fall.
- Autumn glow muhly (M. lindheimeri) is a larger grass with spikes of tan flowers in fall.
- Bull grass (M. emersleyi) and deer grass (M. rigens) are medium sized ornamental grasses with spikes of white or light tan flowers.
- The blades of little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium), a locally native grass, turn a beautiful copper color in fall.
If you’re looking for classic autumn leaf color, several deciduous trees and shrubs offer reliably impressive fall color.
- Many oak trees do well in Albuquerque, including bur oak (Quercus macrocarpa), Texas red oak (Quercus buckleyi) and Chisos red oak (Quercus gravesii). Oak trees also provide excellent habitat for birds and butterflies; in fact, the caterpillars of many butterflies rely on oak trees.
- Red push pistache (Pistacia × ‘Red Push’) is a hybrid tree selected for its almost neon fall color. You can also plant standard Chinese pistache (Pistacia chinensis), which is a bit more cold hardy, though fall color can vary greatly from tree to tree. Visit a nursery in fall, when pistache leaves are turning color, to see the color of a particular tree before selecting one to bring home.
- Three leaf sumac (Rhus trilobata) is a medium to large sized shrub. It is locally native, grows in all soil types and does well in sun or shade. In fall, its leaves turn beautiful shades of yellow, orange and red. Autumn amber sumac is a groundcover cultivar of three leaf sumac and rarely grows taller than six inches and spreads up to ten feet. Gro low sumac (Rhus aromatica ‘Gro Low’) is a Midwestern sumac that grows up to 3 feet tall and spreads up to 6 feet wide. Like three leaf sumac, its leaves turn fiery shades in fall.
And don’t forget an evergreen backdrop for all this fall color. The warm oranges and reds of sumacs, buckwheat, oaks and little bluestem are especially striking when paired with the silvery blue gray plants that do so well in Albuquerque, such as agave, artemisia, chamisa and Rocky Mountain juniper.
Selecting a mix of colorful blossoms, autumn leaf color, soft textures and contrasting blues and grays for your garden this fall will make your landscape a highlight of the season.
Learn More Here:
Ornamental Grasses and How and When to Use Them
New and Underutilized Plants for 2026
Climate Ready Landscapes!
Author: Tess Houle, ASLA Landscape Architect with Pland Collaborative. Photos by Wes Brittenham, and Tess Houle Have a question about the article or anything else? [email protected]
by 505 Outside | Aug 31, 2026 | Outdoor Living, Pollinators and Wildlife, Vines, Winter, Xeriscape
We recently spoke with Judith Phillips, a local garden writer and landscape designer, about why vines are so useful in Southwest landscapes and how homeowners can use them successfully.
Vines can feel intimidating because many grow quickly and can become large or unruly. But Phillips points out that they solve landscape challenges where other plant types may not work. Vines create fast shade, screen narrow spaces, add winter interest and provide food and habitat for pollinators.
Below are suggestions of vine species for each of these four landscape scenarios.
CREATE FAST SHADE
When you don’t have the time or space needed to grow shade trees, but you can’t live comfortably outdoors in the blistering sun, building an arbor and planting a vine to provide a cool leafy canopy may be the solution.
Phillips notes that vines can create shade faster than a tree. Once established, many vines, such as grapes, can have individual canes that grow as much as 10 feet a year, allowing them to quickly climb up and over a pergola or other structure. Because many vines are naturally riparian, an established large woody vine may use about as much water as a medium-sized tree. Their fast growth also means they require regular guidance and pruning, but the reward is a comfortable, inviting outdoor space.
Open lattice ramadas, arbors and pergolas all work well for vines. Wood is commonly used for structures because it is simple and easy to build with, but in Albuquerque’s climate, steel is often ideal because it is strong, long-lasting, low maintenance and resists UV damage.
Vines can be guided around structures, fences and trellises by gently weaving stems or attaching them with twist ties, string or twine through chain-link fencing or welded wire mesh, sometimes called “hog panel.” Remove ties once the vine has grown into place.
Lady Banks’ rose growing on pergola providing shade to seating area.
Some great species to create shade on an arbor are Lady Banks’ rose, wisteria and canyon grapevine.
Lady Banks’ rose (Rosa banksiae): Rarely do you find a plant that is fast growing, evergreen and long-lived. Lady Banks’ rose is all those things, and it produces a beautiful if brief show of flowers in spring. And it uses surprisingly little water and grows well in sun or shade. This plant becomes quite large and, unlike most roses, blooms on old wood. If it grows too large, guide it around the structure or prune away unwanted growth; it adapts well to heavy pruning. Lady Banks’ is thornless and has incredible show stopping spring blooms.
Lady Banks’ on metal trellis.
Lady Banks Rose blooming on chain link fence.
Wisteria (Wisteria sinensis): The pendulous, sweet-scented lavender flowers of this vine are some of the first to bloom in the spring. Bright green leaves follow shortly thereafter, filling the plant and creating lots of dappled shade below. Once the flowers fade, the leaves fill in to provide dense shade in the summer. Expect woody stems over time and train the vine strategically as it develops. Wisteria grows well in sun, shade and part shade.
Close up of Wisteria Trunk by Hunter Ten Broeck
Wisteria blooms hanging from a pergola.
Grapes, multiple varieties: New Mexico is one of the oldest grape growing regions in North America, with plants brought to the state by Spanish colonialists and planting records dating back to 1652. Grapes prefer consistent moisture during their first year of establishment and grow best in full sun. The vines are fast growing and long-lived. Beautiful bright leaves create dense shade, and the fruit is delicious Grapes are deciduous so be prepared for a sculptural woody vista throughout the winter months. Late winter, before the last frost, is the best time to train and prune them. Some varieties to try are Himrod, an early ripening seedless white table grape; Red Flame, a seedless red table grape; Canadice, a cold hardy seedless red table grape known for disease resistance; and the unique Flambeau, a seedless pink table grape with strawberry sweetness. Another the Canyon grape, has beautiful fall color and grapes are loved by wildlife.
Grape vine growing on trellis at a home in the North Valley of Albuquerque.
SCREEN NARROW SPACES
Narrow spaces, such as side yards, can be difficult to plant because shrubs may become too wide before they provide enough height to provide screening. Vines trained on a trellis against a wall can fill vertical space without overwhelming the walkway and adjacent space.
Sun exposure in these narrow spaces affects which vines will do the best, explains Phillips. The west and south facing sides of the property receive the hottest afternoon sun, while the north facing side is typically cooler because of the shade, and the east facing side receives morning light.
Lady Banks’ rose growing on metal trellis attached to block wall on side of the house.
For southern and western exposures, Phillips suggests using passionflower vine and silver lace vine.
Passionflower vine (Passiflora caerulea): Stunning dark blue and ivory flowers appear in the summer flocked with butterflies. This vine grows well in heat but will freeze to the ground in winter. It will regrow from root-sprouts in the spring and climb again using tendrils.
A single Bluecrown Passiflora flower, also known as Passilfora Caerulea, an evergreen tendril climbing vine.
Silver lace vine (Fallopia baldschuanica): This is one of the most xeric and heat tolerant of the vines as well as a good pollinator that can smell like lilacs when blooming. Because it can become a tangle of spaghetti-like twigs, Phillips recommends cutting it to the ground every few years so that it will return with great exuberance in the spring.
Silverlace vine in bloom.
For shadier locations, she recommends using Carolina jessamine and Algerian ivy.
Carolina Jessamine (Glesemium sempervirens): This vine performs best in shade. It is not particular about soil and produces beautiful yellow flowers in early spring while retaining winter color. Note that it is toxic to humans, pets and livestock if ingested, even in small amounts. Prune one fourth of the vine’s mass every three years to keep it from getting too woody and to encourage vigorous plant growth.
Carolina Jessamine
Carolina jessamine (from internet, not great)
Algerian ivy (Hedera canariensis): This ivy climbs walls with clasping roots and provides evergreen color. It does best on north or northeast facing walls. Its large, bright green leaves resemble English ivy. The needlepoint dwarf variety is a smaller option that also performs well.
Ivy climbing up the side of a home.
ADD WINTER INTERST
Many vines fade or freeze back in winter, but some continue to add structure, color or texture. Phillips recommends Lady Banks’ rose and Algerian ivy for evergreen color along with wisteria for its sculptural woody branches.
Wisteria seed pods in winter.
Star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides): This vine has dark green foliage, fragrant spring flowers and smooth stems. When trained onto a trellis, it forms a dense cover. It grows well in partial shade, is a medium water user and is adapted to a wide range of soils. The sweet, pinwheel-shaped white flowers produce nectar for pollinators.
Star jasmine growing on a fence.
PROVIDE FOOD AND HABITAT FOR POLLINATORS
Several vines already mentioned — including wisteria, star jasmine, Carolina jessamine, silver lace vine and passionflower — support pollinators.
Wisteria blossom.
Climbing milkweed (Funastrum cynanchoides): This New Mexico native is one of Phillips new favorites. It dies back completely in winter but grows vigorously in spring, forming tangled curtains across fences, boulders and shrubs. It prefers heavier soils such as clay rather than
Climbing Milkweed, Funastrum cynanchoides var. hartwegii
Silkvine (Periploca graeca): This deciduous vine can grow three feet or more in a year and sports glossy dark green leaves and dark maroon spring flowers. It’s fast growing and loves to climb up ramadas, wire fencing and trellises. On a pergola, it provides dense shade in the summer then loses its leaves in winter, letting the sun penetrate through the sculptural coiled stems. It tolerates both clay and sandy soil. Brought here by the earliest colonizers from the Valencia region of Spain, it’s found along the historic stagecoach routes of the Camino de Real.
Silkvine flower by Hunter Ten Broeck
Western virgin’s bower (Clematis ligusticifolia): Also known as old man’s beard, this vine is fast growing where water is available and does well on north and east sides. Native to New Mexico, it can be found climbing over small trees and shrubs in the Jemez Mountains. Butterflies adore the fragrant white blooms, and attractive seed heads — one of the best parts of this plant — provide winter interest.
Clematis flower by Hunter Ten Broeck
Locally familiar trumpet vine and honeysuckle are not included here because Phillips is using them less often in home landscapes. Orange trumpet vine can root aggressively and become difficult to manage. Instead, Phillips has been using crossvine, a related species that she finds easier to live with and more evergreen, making it more attractive through winter. Honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens), including the Major Wheeler variety, can be temperamental, especially when it experiences leaf loss during late, hot summer months. Even so, both trumpet vine and honeysuckle are established local favorites and can still find homes in the right locations.
Whether used for shade, screening, winter structure or pollinator support, vines can bring beauty and function to places where other plants may struggle. With the right species, sturdy support, thoughtful placement and regular training, they can become some of the most versatile and rewarding plants in a Southwestern garden.
Learn More Here:
Vines for New Mexico
How to Build a Trellis
Creating Living Shade with Vines
Interview with Judith Phillips, owner of Design Oasis and a landscape designer and garden writer with 30 years of experience designing arid-adapted and native gardens in the high desert. Have a question about the article or anything else? [email protected]
