The Dirt on Albuquerque’s Weeds

The Dirt on Albuquerque’s Weeds

WEED IDENTIFICATION

Most definitions of a weed call it “a wild plant growing where it is not wanted and in competition of cultivated plants.” What you may call a weed in your yard may be a beloved plant in your neighbor’s yard.

There are two times a year in the greater Albuquerque area when weeds can get out of hand. This happens typically in early spring after a wet winter and after a monsoon season in late summer. The first thing to do is to identify the plant and decide whether it is actually a weed.

There are some common plants most people in our area think of as weeds. These are broken up into two categories: annual weeds and perennial weeds.

According to the NMSU blog “Desert Blooms”

Annual weeds (puncture vine/goathead, pig weed, purslane, mustard weeds, spurge, and many others) must grow from seeds each year. Prevent them from forming seeds to reduce potential weed problems for the next year. However, since weed seeds can persist in the soil many years before germinating, they will continue to reappear. Be persistent!

Perennial weeds (silverleaf nightshade, bindweed, and others) grow from seeds as well, but they also are able to regrow from their root systems. Pulling newly germinated perennial weeds before they can establish their perennial root system helps reduce the problem. As they regrow from established root systems, frequent removal of the tops will help diminish the food reserves in the roots and weaken the weeds over time. As they become weaker, they become easier to manage.

WEED REMOVAL

Chemical sprays are typically not recommended due to the health hazards and environmental pollution they produce if used incorrectly. It mightsound easier to use the chemical sprays, but once the weeds die from the chemicals, you still have to pull the dead weeds from your yard. Instead, most weeds should be removed manually.

There are few ways to manually remove weeds: hand pulling, using a hand weeder tool, or using a tool called a hula hoe.

Hand Pulling

When hand pulling weeds, definitely wear gloves. Rubber coated gloves are good for small weeds where you need dexterity. Leather gloves are good for larger weeds with thorns. Weeds are most easily pulled when the ground is wet.

Hand Weeder

Hand Weeder Tool

If the weed doesn’t easily come out by hand, then use a weed tool known as a hand weeder. This tool is dug into the base of the weed near the roots and wiggled around to pop out the weed with the root.

Hula Hoe

Hula Hoe and Scuffle Hoe Skidger® Xtreme Weeder™

If you have a large area of small weeds to remove, a third method is to use a hula hoe tool. This tool allows you to easily pull up the weeds by gently pushing the tool a few inches into the ground. Some hula hoes, also known as scuffle hoes, have a pointed tip to allow the user to pop the weed out at the root. Another benefit to hula hoeing is that it avoids excessive disturbance to the soil, preventing new seeds from being exposed to light and then germinating. This is the best option if you have a large areas of weeds less than 3” high.

What to do with your pile of weeds after you have removed them?

If you have not used chemicals on your weeds, then you could compost them. But only compost if you know the weeds have not gone to seed and that your compost pile will heat up sufficiently. When in doubt, dispose of them in the trash or take them to a local composting facility. 

COMMON WEEDS IN THE GREATER ALBUQUERQUE AREA

Puncture Vine/Goathead, Tribulus terrestris

Puncture Vine - Annual Weed

This plant appears in summer. We all love to hate the seeds of this plant, especially if you have ever stepped on them with bare feet. They are also frustrating for cyclists because they cause flat tires. Each goathead fruit contains 5-7 additional seeds, meaning that each plant can easily produce 200 - 5,000 seeds. That’s why it is so important to remove this plant before it flowers and goes to seed.

How to remove: Remove before plant starts to flower. If you notice the bright yellow flowers it’s time to get after it with a hula hoe. Because of this plant’s spreading nature, just a few plants can take up a relatively large area. With a hula hoe, these areas can be cleaned up quickly. A thick layer (3-4 inches) of organic mulch can be effective in controlling this plant from germinating.

Pig weed, Amaranthus alba

Pig Weed - Annual Weed

Related to the South American ‘ancient grain’ amaranth, pig weed usually appears after summer rains and grows quickly. It can easily reach over 6 feet tall, if allowed. Mowing or line trimming will only encourage this plant to grow low and horizontally, and to go to seed earlier. Like most weeds, pig weed is worth controlling when it is young to reduce the amount of work to remove it later, and to reduce the number of seeds it produces. Remove pig weed when it is less than 8-12 inches tall and when the soil is a little damp with a hula hoe. When larger, this weed is relatively easy to hand pull when soil is damp. If large, chop below ground with a shovel or heavy garden hoe.

Purslane, Portulaca oleracea

Purslane - Annual Weed
(Photo courtesy of NMSU)

This plant appears in mid-summer and should be removed before it flowers. Use a hula hoe for removal when the plant is less than 3 inches wide. Hand pull larger than 3-inch plants. This plant, which is known locally as verdolagas, is also an edible plant that is packed with nutrients, including omega-3 fatty acids. It can sometimes be found in local farmers’ markets.

Mustard Weed, London Rocket Sisymbrium irio

Mustard Weed - Annual Weed

This plant appears in the winter months in pockets of dampness. It should be removed before yellow flowers appear. Use a hula hoe to remove when the plant is less than 4 inches tall and the soil is damp. Hand pulling is recommended once mustard weed reaches over 6 inches tall. As with all weeds, mustard weed is easiest to pull when the soil is moist. If the soil is dry, use the hand weeder tool to dig out the tap root.

Spurge, Euphorbia serpens

Spurge - Annual Weed
(Photo courtesy of New Mexico State University (NMSU) by Leslie Beck)

This plant appears in early spring. Use a hula hoe to remove when the soil is damp. Spurge is most often seen in patchy lawns with sprinklers. Spurge goes to seed very quickly, so removal should happen the moment you first notice it. The milky sap of this plant is toxic, be sure to avoid touching eyes and wash your hands after handling.

Tumbleweed, Salsola tragus

Tumbleweed - Annual Weed
(young plant)
(Photo courtesy of NMSU)
Tumbleweed - Annual Weed
(Photo courtesy of NMSU)

Infamous around the state, this plant appears in early summer. Seedlings and small plants look very different from the dry tumbleweeds seen blowing across the highway in the fall. Learn how to identify these when they are young as early removal is recommended. Use a hula hoe to remove when the plant is less than 4 inches tall and the soil is damp. Hand pull plants larger than 4 inches. Eradication of tumbleweed seed can take between 2-3 years because of the numerous seeds in the soil. For more extensive recommendations on removal visit this website.

Fox Tail, Hordeum murinum

Foxtail - Annual Weed
(Photo courtesy of NMSU)

This winter weed has seeds that can get lodged into pets’ paws, coat, nose and ears and cause extreme danger in the animal if not removed promptly. The fox tail has very shallow roots and is easily removed by hand or hula hoe.

Silverleaf nightshade, Solanum elaeagnifolium

Silverleaf nightshade - Perennial Weed

Purple flowers appear between April and August. This plant is in the nightshade family and can be toxic if consumed by humans or cattle. Its prickly branches produce purple flowers followed by yellow berries. The deep taproot can be difficult to remove, so deep watering, a hand weeder, and gloves are recommended for removal. This is a native plant, so consider leaving it for pollinators to enjoy the purple flowers. But never let it grow where it may be accidentally consumed by pets or children.

Bindweed, Convolvulus arvensis 

Bindweed - Perennial Weed

Pink or white trumpet shaped flowers appear on this weed in June. The leaves are shaped like arrowheads and the first sign of this weed appears as thin stems wrapped around existing plants. Bindweed is a tenacious plant, powered by a root system that can reach 20 feet deep, and a dense root system that looks like a bowl of noodles. Repeated hand removal is the key to eliminating this weed because it forces the plant to use up the energy reserves in its root system. You may have to pull the tops every 5 days for several months to get it under control. Never put these in the compost.

Bermudagrass: Cynodon dactylon

Bermuda Grass - Perennial Weed

Bermudagrass was the main grass planted as a lawn in Albuquerque homes 50-60 years ago. This plant can make a great durable low water lawn but can be a nuisance in every other situation. This grass is considered a warm season grass, meaning it is green from the spring to the fall and dormant in the water. Licensed professionals can be hired to eradicate large areas of Bermuda grass with an herbicide. Like bindweed, this aggressive weed grows from persistent underground roots called rhizomes. Rhizomes allow the plant to store energy and continue to resprout many times and allow it to grow up through mulch and even weed fabric. It is important to prevent this plant from becoming established and to continually pull the tops to reduce energy reserves. When removing this plant, the grass lawn can be dug out with digging forks and shovels to loosen the soil then remove and dispose of the rhizomes by hand.

Bermuda Grass re-appearing in a Landscape.

WEED PREVENTION

Have you ever driven across the city and wondered why the parks and medians are weed free, yet your yard seems to be their breeding ground? The City has a specific weed management plan for the parks and medians to prevent weeds from germinating. Homeowners can benefit from a management plan or strategy, as well.

Even with a good weed management plan, it takes an average of three years to really control a weed problem. Each weed requires a different approach, too. One of the best prevention methods is to avoid the conditions that allow weeds to grow.

The most common conditions that allow weeds to proliferate is sprinklers from a lawn over-spraying into a planting area. This can be due to mismanaged or poorly adjusted sprinklers. Check your sprinklers each month and adjust as necessary to prevent overspray. The Water Authority offers free one-on-one irrigation consultations for those interested in improving the efficiency of their irrigation system and improving the health of their landscapes.

For persistent weed problems in a lawn, consider converting the lawn to a desert-friendly landscape with drip irrigation. This will greatly reduce both weeds and your water bill. The Water Authority offers generous rebates for lawn to desert-friendly conversions -- learn more here.

Another common condition that encourages weeds is bare dirt. Weeds thrive in bare dirt, so cover the dirt with organic mulch or plants. Organic mulch is a natural covering, and includes such material as straw, chipped wood, shredded wood, or pecan shells. (The phrase organic refers to material relating to or derived from living matter. It’s not related to the food or farming method of food production without the use of chemicals.) Organic mulch spread on the ground around plants has the added benefit of preventing excessive evaporation and erosion. Organic mulch will also enrich the soil as it breaks down. A depth of 4 inches of organic mulch will inhibit weed growth by preventing sunlight from reaching weed seeds. The Water Authority offers a rebate for mulch when used around trees – check out our Treebate here or information on converting lawn to desert-friendly landscape.

Covering your yard with plants is another great way to prevent weeds. Weeds don’t typically grow in the shade of other plants. The more you plant, the fewer weeds and more beautiful yard you’ll have!

Weed Free Landscape With Mulch

You might be wondering about weed fabric (also known as landscape fabric). There are a few things to keep in mind regarding this product. Weed seeds can still germinate and grow on top of weed fabric as the New Mexico winds blow in new seeds and dust every season. Those new seeds are happy to grow in the dust that collects over the weed fabric.

Landscape fabric is also not a permanent solution. It has a limited lifespan in the landscape, and many weed roots will grow through the fabric, making their removal even more difficult. Weed fabric can also be expensive, it’s difficult to install, can restrict growth of plants you actually want. Additionally weed fabric can also inhibit the soil fertility by not allowing leaves to decompose back into the soil or allowing oxygen exchange and plant roots to “breathe”.

Author: Jill Brown, ASLA Landscape Architect and owner of My Landscape Coach in Albuquerque, NM.

The Basics of Fruit Tree Pruning

The Basics of Fruit Tree Pruning

Everyone should consider planting fruit trees in their yard. Because of our climate, fruit trees grow really well in our area. Besides the joy they bring when we harvest delicious fruit, they put on a beautiful show with spring flowers, create shade, and provide shelter and food for wildlife and pollinators. The Water Authority encourages the planting of fruit and shade trees by providing a generous annual rebate (click here for more information). Thinking of planting a new fruit tree? Check out our blog post about the proper way to plant trees here.

All trees require some amount of pruning, especially when young, in order to set up good structure. Fruit trees have a few special considerations related to our intense sunlight, specific pests, and where on the tree the fruit is produced.

Pruning has been called “one of the best, worst practices for trees,” because removing branches and leaves limits the tree’s ability to produce energy. Pruning wounds also create a place for decay to enter the tree. You should always have a reason for pruning a tree and understand why you are making specific cuts – not just because it’s a nice day and you remember reading somewhere that you should prune your fruit tree. Pruning is good because it reduces the length of branches to prevent breakage from heavy fruit years; removes dead or diseased branches; and/or reduces limbs to keep them from rubbing against a wall.

There is a ton of great information available online and in books about how to prune specific types of fruit trees. Below are a few resources. But remember that the way you care for your fruit tree will be a bit different than that of a commercial orchard. Besides producing fruit, the tree in your yard will also provide shade and beauty, so keep this in mind when studying resources about fruit trees and deciding which cuts to make.

Unlike in many other climates, our intense sunlight means that over-pruning can to lead to sunscald. This occurs when a branch is suddenly exposed to bright sunlight, causing areas of the bark to become burned and crack, exposing them to disease and rot. In order to avoid this, be careful about removing too many branches from the top, south and west sides of the tree. This exposes remaining branches to intense sunlight, causing sunscald.

Darkening on tree on the south side is a sign of sunscald.

Stone fruit trees such as apricots, peaches, and cherries thrive in our area and can be really rewarding to grow. Unfortunately, there is also a pest called a borer (often referred to as a peach borer) that loves other fruit trees, too. This pest is very common and many feel that it is not a matter of if but when your stone fruit tree will get borers. Luckily a healthy tree can resist this pest on its own through natural defenses.

You can support and keep your tree healthy by doing the following three things:

  1. Selecting an appropriate irrigation system ensuring that it is properly watered (see our seasonal plant watering guide here)
  2. Adding mulch (see information about treebates for irrigation improvements and mulch)
  3. Keeping the root collar of the tree exposed. (see tree detail)

Even trees that have borers can continue to live and produce fruit for more than a decade if they are well taken care of. Drought-stressed trees which have borers, on the other hand, often die within a few years.

If you think that you have borers in your stone fruit tree, there are several treatment options. These range from predatory soil nematodes to plant-derived and chemical pesticides that are sprayed, injected, or applied as a root drench. As with any plant pest treatment, the timing is critical. This is especially true with borers. If done at the incorrect time during the borer’s lifecycle, your effort will be completely wasted and you may kill beneficial insects that help your fruit tree. Resources or more information about borers here.

Fruit Tree Borer Infection

Fruit trees are usually pruned in late winter (February – early March) to adjust the tree’s structure. Summer pruning can also be done, but this is typically used to control or slow down growth. Removing dead, diseased, or dying branches can be done at any time of the year. It is important to remove dead branches so you can determine later if more branches are dying, and thus judge the general health and vigor of the tree. For young trees, it is especially important to leave as many small branches as possible. These help to produce energy for the tree as it is getting established, and can be removed later if they are not desirable for the mature tree structure. It is extremely important to never prune living branches if the tree is stressed by drought conditions.

Most fruit trees bear flower buds, then fruit, on specialized branch structures called fruit spurs. Fruit spurs will look different depending on the type of tree. Although variable, these usually occur on parts of the branch that are at least two years old, and individual fruit spurs can last for up to 10 years. In general, flower buds located on fruit spurs are fat, fuzzy and plump, as opposed to leaf buds which are pointed and flat. It’s important to know how to recognize these so you don’t prune off the coming year’s fruit harvest.

Because of how damaging bad pruning can be, and how valuable trees are, it may be worthwhile to hire an expert. Be sure that they have experience with fruit tree pruning in our area and are certified arborists by the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA). To find a local certified arborist, visit this site.

Author: Amos Arber, ASLA, ISA Xeriscape Incentive Inspector for Albuquerque Bernalillo County Water Utility Authority

Watering Recommendations: February 2019

There is no need to water this month because the greater Albuquerque area received up to 8" inches of snow in the month of January to meet our plants' water needs! 

505Outside follows this basic rule for watering during winter months: If it has rained more than 1/2 inch (or snowed more than 6 inches) in the last 4 weeks, then there is no need to water. It snowed more than that in January, so there is no need to water this month. 

Below are our Winter Watering Recommendations. If by the third week in February we have not received precipitation please follow the guidelines below. 

 

Remember to mark your calendar on the day of the last big rainstorm, then make a note to review the winter water recommendation chart on the same date of the next month. Keeping track of precipitation will help you decide whether you need to water during the winter months.

Pointleaf Manzanita, Arctostaphylos pungens

Pointleaf Manzanita, Arctostaphylos pungens

Full Sun, Part Shade
Low Water

Mature Size (H x W): 3-6’X 3-6’
Blooming Season: Early Spring
Flower Color: White

Region: New Mexico

A dramatic member of the Heath family native to New Mexico, the Pointleaf Manzanita is one of the few true broad-leafed evergreens that can handle the challenges of our cold, dry climate.  It’s found in open pine forests and piñon-juniper woodlands, from 3000’ to 8000’ elevation, with a native range from California to Nevada to Texas.  Hardy to at least -20 degrees.  Tolerant of some alkalinity, and of soils ranging from sand to clay.  Birds love the summer display of pea-sized bronze-colored fruits, which follow clusters of urn-shaped soft pink flowers.  This eye-catching native also attracts hummingbirds, butterflies and bees.  This plant can stand alone as a specimen or be clustered with other evergreens as part of a hedge or screen.  Its exfoliating mahogany-colored bark and matte green leaves lend contrast when planted near sage or blue juniper foliage.

 

Tips for success with this sometimes-challenging plant: Start with small plants, and make sure to choose a good long-term location, as Manzanitas don’t like to be transplanted.  If you plan to highlight the Pointleaf Manzanita’s sinewy structure, begin pruning up at a young age to develop an open structure, since they tolerate pruning of mature branches poorly.  This plant should be watered deeply every 2 weeks in summer and monthly for the rest of the year.

 

The only thing missing with this wonderful shrub may be easy availability, so be sure to mention to your local garden center that you’re interested!  North America boasts around 60 plants in the Arctostaphylos genus, and numerous cultivars are available, so also keep an eye open for the Pointleaf Manzanita’s botanical relatives during your travels!

Watering Recommendations: January 2019

There is no need to water this month because the greater Albuquerque area received enough precipitation in the last week of December to meet our plants’ water needs! 505Outside follows this basic rule for watering during winter months:  If it has rained more than ½ inch (or snowed more than 6 inches) in the last 4 weeks, then there is no need to water. We’ve checked the precipitation rates for our area and we are above a half inch of moisture, with some areas receiving over an inch of precipitation in December!

Below are our Winter Watering Recommendations for future months. Again, no need to water in January 2019.

Always remember to mark your calendar on the day of the last big rainstorm then make a note the same date on the next month. Keeping track of precipitation will help you in deciding whether you need to water during these winter months.