Best Native Plants for Re-seeding

Best Native Plants for Re-seeding

by | Apr 30, 2026 | Planting, Pollinators and Wildlife

Are you interested in finding plants for your landscape that easily reproduce from seed? Perhaps plants that are beneficial for wildlife create a natural look and cover a lot of ground? How would you recognize a seedling of one of these species? In this article, we will look at a dozen species of native plants — including trees, shrubs, grasses and wildflowers — that germinate naturally, transplant easily when small, fill in your landscape or garden with beauty, are easy to care for and are low to moderate water users.

 

Trees:

Close up of Desert Willow flower (Photo by Wes Brittenham)

Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis)

This lovely drought tolerant native is not a true willow, but the long, narrow leaves are similar enough to willows to inspire the common name. The lovely, ruffled flowers come in a variety of colors from white to pink to deep burgundy and attract hummingbirds and a wide variety of other pollinators. This tree can range from 12 to 20 feet tall and wide and is appreciated for its dramatic sculptural form, with curvy branching that creates a sinuous feel. Often multi-trunked, its signature orchid-like flowers appear in abundance in spring and frequently repeat throughout the warmer months. With careful proper pruning, this tree is a lovely addition to any landscape, casting light shade and requiring only monthly deep watering after several years of establishment.

 

Unless you have a seedless cultivar, this plant produces a prodigious amount of narrow, elongated seed pods resembling thin, dried bean pods. It will germinate in poor soil, gravel or crusher fine mulches — or anywhere the seed catches and gets the moisture and light it needs. A deep-rooted species, this native transplants easily when tiny, within the first couple of years of growth. After that, the deep roots can be damaged by digging. Recognize young plants by the narrow leaves that look like miniature versions of the mature leaves, usually a single vertical stem a few inches tall when you first notice it. It is easy to gather seeds and grow in containers.

Forestiera pubescens var. pubescens (photo by Brandt Magic)

New Mexico Olive (Forestiera neomexicana/Forestiera pubescens var. pubescens)

Sometimes also called New Mexico privet, this native bosque understory plant is neither an olive nor a privet. Common names often refer to an aspect of the plant that reminds people of a familiar landscape plant. Some folks prune this plant severely to resemble privet hedges, though that is not recommended. Usually multi-trunked, this plant hovers between large shrub and small tree, growing from 10 to 15 feet tall and 5 to 10 feet wide. It is happy in full sun to moderate shade, and the female plant produces small purplish berries that are beloved by many birds. The birds deposit the seeds with their natural fertilizer, and you will find transplantable volunteers scattered throughout the landscape. The pale rounded green leaves look like tiny versions of the parent plant. The early, almost inconspicuous flowers born before the leaves emerge are visited by many species of bees. If the tree has eggs of the cabbage looper (the early white butterfly flitting about the garden), which produce tiny inchworm caterpillars, you may see delighted flocks of tiny bushtits swarming in for the buffet. These lovely birds feast on the caterpillars before much leaf damage occurs, making your habitat garden functional and educational.

 

Shrubs:

Three Leaf Sumac with fall color. (Photo by Wes Brittenham)

Three Leaf Sumac (Rhus trilobata)

This native shrub is a wonderful habitat plant. The early, almost inconspicuous greenish yellow flowers come early, giving bees a good source of nectar and pollen. Later, small, berry-like fuzzy fruits ripen, much to the pleasure of the spotted towhee, who will dance and stomp under this shrub, feasting on the fallen fruit. The fruit has a lemony flavor and can be used to make a flavored drink or a great seasoning for grilled trout. Widely branching, this very low water use shrub can grow from 3 to 10 feet tall and wide but can be pruned to keep it on the smaller side. The autumn color ranges from yellow to orange to red and is a great addition to any landscape. The dense branching provides cover from raptors and roadrunners hunting for small birds. The fallen or bird-deposited seeds germinate easily, the three-lobed leaf is easily recognizable, and the seedlings transplant well.

 

 

Golden Currant blooms (Photo by Wes Brittenham)

Golden Currant (Ribes aureaum)

Golden currant is named for the beautiful golden flowers that bear a slightly spicy clove like fragrance and are visited by many pollinators. The delicious fruits ripen to a shiny blackish purple and are a favorite of birds and humans fresh off the plant or made into jam, jelly or syrup. This is a wonderful native shrub. Found in riparian areas, it needs moderate water to thrive and full sun to part shade. The prodigious berries produce many seedlings to transplant around the garden. It can be pruned to create a fuller shape and usually grows 3 to 5 feet tall and wide.

 

Grasses:

 

Many of our native grasses are prolific seeders, producing volunteers that transplant easily.

 

Little Bluestem grass (Photo by Wes Brittenham)

Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium).

This is an upright clump-forming grass that ranges from shades of green to blue-gray during the growing season and beautiful reds and russet colors in fall. A warm season, drought tolerant grass, it is at home in masses, in a meadow or as an individual accent, punctuating the landscape with its strong, vertical form. It produces fluffy, silvery seed heads in the late summer to early fall. These seeds are fabulous light catchers, and this robust grass is spectacular when the seeds are backlit by the rising or setting sun. It is a host plant for native skipper butterflies, and songbirds enjoy the seeds. Best in full sun.

 

Blue Grama grass (Photo by Wes Brittenham)

Blue Grama (Bouteloua gracilis)

This lovely, clump-forming, self-seeding, drought tolerant native grass is well known for its signature curling seed head that begins with an eyebrow shape and curls to a circle as it dries. This grass is often used as a native lawn mixed with buffalo grass (Buchloe dactyloides) and mowed for a turflike appearance, but the real benefit is to let this grass grow naturally, its deep roots penetrating the soil while the top of the grass goes to beautiful seed and provides habitat for native bees and butterflies. You will notice pollinator activity during the flowering season for this grass. Great in a meadow, as a specimen in a rock garden or tucked among wildflowers.

 

 

Indian Ricegrass (photo by Gary Monroe)

Indian Ricegrass (Achnatherum hymenoides)

This striking native loves hot, dry, sandy soil found in west side neighborhoods. It has tiny, gluten free seeds that were a staple food for Indigenous peoples in the Southwest. The thin, wiry leaves grow 1 to 2 feet tall. They are sage green and are topped by ivory colored seed heads that appear in early summer. Another clump-forming grass, it is grown for its durability and lovely seedheads that are beautiful in dried arrangements. A natural food source for wildlife, as well as attracting birds and butterflies, it is the larval host of skipper butterflies.

 

Flowers:

 

So many of our wildflowers produce seeds that volunteer easily in the right location. For ease of growth and transplanting, we will look at a few species that have many benefits to offer.

 

 

Purple Coneflower (Photo by Wes Brittenham)

Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea).

This perennial delight grows in full sun to part shade and looks its best with moderate water. Beloved by bees and butterflies, the purple/pink petals and dark center cone are a striking form in any landscape or garden. Leave the seed heads through the winter and not only will seed eating birds have a source of nutrition, but you will be rewarded with volunteer seedlings that you can easily transplant in your garden. The small new plants look just like tiny versions of the mature ones.

 

 

Mexican Hat Flower (Photo by Wes Brittenham)

Prairie Coneflower/ Mexican Hat (Ratibida columnifera)

This tough, drought tolerant native perennial is known for the distinctive tall center seed cone and drooping flower petals that give it the common name of Mexican hat as it resembles a sombrero. It re-seeds readily, thriving in full sun and well-drained soil. It attracts pollinators, with flowers that can be yellow, maroon or a combination of the two. It has a lengthy bloom time, and birds love the seeds. Growing to about a 1½ feet tall, it is at home in mixed meadows, flower beds and even container gardens.

 

 

 

Tickseed (Coreopsis)

This low maintenance wildflower comes in both perennial (Coreopsis) and annual (Plains coreopsis, C. tinctoria) forms. The perennial is a sturdy plant featuring bright yellow daisy-like flowers that bloom for a long time, attracting bees, butterflies and birds when it goes to seed. The tick-like shape of the seed gives it its common name. Plains coreopsis is airy and thinner than perennial coreopsis and has smaller flowers that are usually yellow around the margins, with red to burgundy in the center.

 

Large Flower Beardtongue (Photo by Wes Brittenham)

Large Flowered Beardtongue (Penstemon grandiflora)

A 2- to 4-foot-tall native perennial, this penstemon features large lavender to pink tubular flowers in late spring and early summer. It prefers well drained soil, even thrives in sandy soil, and attracts a variety of pollinators, including hummingbirds and the checkerspot butterfly. Wonderful in meadows and prairies, this striking native also looks great when planted in masses as it produces smaller clumps than other large penstemons such as desert beardtongue or Palmers penstemon. The large flowered penstemon re-seeds easily, but like most penstemons, needs to be seeded in the fall for natural cold stratification. The leaves are rounded and a rich blue-grey color.

 

 

Blue Flax Flower (Photo by Wes Brittenham)

Blue Flax (Linum lewisii)

This sky blue, delicate looking wildflower is actually quite tough. It blooms profusely on thin, airy stems in spring to mid-summer. The flowers open in the morning and close by the afternoon. It prefers poor, well-drained soil and is very drought tolerant once established. It is usually a short-lived perennial, with each plant lasting perhaps several years in the landscape, but it is a prolific producer of seeds and, if the conditions are conducive, it naturalizes in large, shimmering swaths, with the rounded petals giving a satin sheen effect. It is to be fond of sprouting in decomposed granite or crusher fine mulches.

 

Learn more here:

Recipe for a High Desert Meadow

Food Forests: A prehistoric agroecosystem for your backyard.

Ornamental Grasses: How and When to Use Them

 

Author: Wes Brittenham, artist, gardener and writer. Have a question about the article or anything else?  AskAnExpert@abcwua.org

Regenerative Vegetable Gardening in the Southwest

Regenerative Vegetable Gardening in the Southwest

by | Mar 3, 2026 | Blog, Edibles, Planting

Growing vegetables successfully in the hot, arid climate of New Mexico can be tough. My partner and I have extensive farming experience and education in permaculture from the mid-west and we found that it took us several seasons of observations, learning and adjustment before we could have a thriving food garden in Albuquerque.

Success came when we stopped fighting the environmental conditions and started working with them. Instead of forcing plants to survive in habitat they weren’t adapted to, we began focusing on supporting natural systems that already exist in the Southwest. Observing the flow of energy across the land — the movement of sun, wind, water and heat — taught us a great deal. We started paying attention to where water naturally collected, where afternoon shade formed, how soil stayed cooler under plant cover, and how native plants thrived with little care.

It is important to begin not by digging in (literally or metaphorically) but by observing what is already happening in the area where you want your garden. Some questions to ask yourself are Where do I get sun? How does water flow in the garden? How can I get the best energy storage in my garden? How is my soil? What plants do I want to grow? What other things might affect them (animals, wind, etc.)?

SUN: Look out for the sun!

The Southwestern sun is not only harsh but ever present in the landscape. Always observe how sunlight enters your garden, areas that have full sun, partial shade or full shade. This will be very helpful in designing where to grow specific plants or vegetables. Have a dedicated notebook for this and make your observations by seeing where other plants are already growing. Ask your neighbors what works for them!

Observing sun patterns and learning from native plants — many of which grow beneath partial shade or alongside rocks and shrubs — can help guide crop placement and shading strategies. While most vegetable crops require six to eight hours of sunlight, prolonged afternoon sun in the Southwest can be damaging. Timing is critical. Heat- and drought-adapted crops benefit from being planted early enough to establish deep root systems before peak summer temperatures or timed to take advantage of late-summer monsoon moisture.

Reduce heat stress with shade.

If your observation diary is telling you that you have almost full sun in most of the garden, then it may be time to think about how you can use simple solutions to add shade.

  1. A shade cloth rated between 30% and 50% lowers temperatures while still allowing sufficient light for photosynthesis. When installed over beds during the hottest months, shade cloth helps prevent sun scalding, reduces moisture loss and minimizes flower and fruit drop.
  2. Create shade with native plants like ocotillo, mesquite and rabbitbrush. Living fences can also be used to create beneficial microclimates by providing afternoon shade, reducing drying winds and moderating temperature extremes.
Creating shade for tomato plants.

SOIL: Essentially, all life depends upon the soil. It is the home for your seeds.

Healthy soil is the foundation of any successful vegetable garden. In the Southwest soil is usually low in organic matter and exposed to intense heat along with not having any cover during the harsh summer months. Living soils — those rich in organic matter and biological activity — retain moisture more effectively, cycle nutrients efficiently and buffer plants against temperature extremes.

To get living soil, start by saving your food scraps from the kitchen! They have nutrients that your soil needs. Building organic matter through compost (made from your kitchen scraps), mulch (from dried fallen leaves, straw, etc.) and continuous root growth (from growing cover crops like winter wheat, rye or barley) supports fungi, bacteria and other organisms in your soil that make nutrients available to plants.

Many native Southwestern plants thrive in undisturbed soils, offering a useful model for garden management. Soil, when protected and undisturbed, can be naturally rich in nutrients, living organisms and living roots. This creates soil that stores water longer, resists erosion and supports plants through heat and drought. Tilling or digging deep can expose these living organisms to the harsh sun, killing all the healthy parts of the soil. Reducing tillage helps preserve soil structure, fungal networks and pore spaces, allowing water to infiltrate deeply rather than evaporating or running off. Most vegetables prefer soil that drains well while still retaining moisture. Improving soil aggregation through organic matter allows soil to hold water like a sponge while maintaining adequate airflow to plant roots.

How to keep your soil full of nutrients and moisture.

  1. Heavy mulching: In urban areas, we have the bad habit of raking all our leaves into plastic bags, but that is quite counterproductive. These leaves actually serve a very important function: They provide natural mulch and keep the soil from getting too hot or losing too much moisture. They also provide homes to bees and other insects that burrow in them for the winter. Heavy mulching is central to water conservation, weed suppression and living-soil management. A thick mulch layer — typically 3-4 inches — keeps soil covered, reduces evaporation and moderates soil temperatures. Use organic mulches such as straw, shredded leaves, wood chips, compost and grass clippings. Mulch can be easily attainable for free. Grab the neighbors’ bags of fall leaves, ask local tree pruning companies for their woodchips, or use your backyard compost. Other options are corn and rice husks and straw waste from mushroom growers.
  2. High-density plantings: Planting really close together protects soil by shading the surface and reducing moisture loss. As plants transpire, they release moisture into the surrounding air, creating a cooler, more humid microclimate near the soil surface that benefits both crops and soil life.
  3. Continuous soil cover: Don’t leave your soil bare; after a harvest, plant a cover crop. It could be something that helps give different nutrients to the soil in winter such as winter wheat or barley or let the skeletons of the previous plants stay. Try the chop and drop method which uses the unused part of the plant harvest as cover during non-planting months.

Ultimately, it is important to remember that feeding the soil food web with a variety of materials/food and rotating what you grow in that soil is important. When they break down, they improve soil structure and fertility over time.

Harvesting carrots from nutrient rich soil.

WATER: Oh Water! What would we do without you?

Water is one of the most important elements and energy systems that you need to plan for in your garden. Water might feel like a renewable, ever-present resource, but we know it is limited in the Southwest. Efficient irrigation is essential for vegetable production in water-limited environments.

Three Types of Watering Methods

  1. Drip irrigation systems are widely recommended because they deliver water directly to the root zone, minimizing evaporation and runoff. ¼-inch in-line drip tubing is particularly well suited for vegetable beds. These lines feature evenly spaced 6” or 12” emitters that provide consistent moisture along plant rows. When installed beneath mulch, they offer precise water delivery while keeping foliage dry, reducing the risk of fungal disease.
  2. Olla means “pot” in Spanish, but the concept of using ollas as an irrigation system goes back thousands of years in many cultures. An olla watering system is basically any type of unglazed clay pot that is buried beneath the soil with only a small amount sticking up above the surface and filled with water. You can tell that a pot is unglazed because it will be that classic terracotta red color with no shiny finish or paint. The water then leeches out of tiny holes or pores in the clay and is pulled through the soil to the roots of your thirsty plants using a process called soil moisture tension. This functions much the same way as osmosis in that the water is trying to equalize to a certain level of moisture within the soil. This means your soil will never become overwatered either — if the soil is moist, the water stays in the pot until it is needed.
  3. Other irrigation options include soaker hoses, overhead sprinklers and hand watering. Soaker hoses are affordable but clog, degrade in the sun and use more water, while sprinklers tend to waste water and increase disease pressure by wetting leaves. Hand watering is flexible but time-consuming and often inconsistent. For most gardens, a hose attached irrigation system combining a 3/4-inch main line with ¼-inch drip tubing offers the best balance of efficiency and control.  Learn how to make one here.
Hand watering a winter vegetable garden.

BIODIVERSITY: Beneficial insects and ecological balance

A healthy vegetable garden is supported not only by sun, soil and water, but by insects that help regulate pest populations naturally. When gardens provide habitat for beneficial insects — such as lady bugs, spiders, green lacewings, parasitic wasps, native bees and predatory beetles — many common garden pests never reach damaging levels. And larger species like lizards and birds can minimize pests such as grasshoppers.

Diverse plantings of varying flowering herbs, native plants, mulch and undisturbed soil create food and shelter for these beneficial species. In a balanced ecosystem, predators and parasitoids feed on aphids, caterpillars, mites and other pests, preventing outbreaks before they occur. Rather than eliminating insects entirely, successful gardens support a web of life where no single species dominates.

Avoid broad-spectrum chemical pesticides. These products often kill beneficial insects before controlling pests and will harm your health, the soil's health and anything that feeds from your garden. When the right insects are present and the ecosystem is healthy, troublesome pests are rarely a serious problem and intervention is often unnecessary.

Pollination in action.

RESILIENT CROPS: Some crops and seed to consider

Heirloom and regionally adapted crops are especially well suited to the Southwest’s heat and low-water conditions. Chiles such as Chimayo, Española Improved, and New Mexico No. 9 tolerate high temperatures and are ideal for roasting or drying. Beans including tepary, Zuni gold and Anasazi are extremely drought-tolerant and improve soil fertility through nitrogen fixation.

Squash and pumpkins, including calabacita and Navajo pumpkin, require minimal care once established and naturally shade the soil, helping conserve moisture. Onions such as New Mexico 6-4 handle heat well and are a flavorful staple in Southwestern kitchens. Hopi red, golden and yellow amaranth is an ancient grain that is nutrient dense, and you can eat its leaves and seeds that are high in calcium and iron. These plants require less water and fertilizer than modern hybrids and form the backbone of resilient, climate-adapted gardens.

Buy non-GMO seed that supports organic farmers. Then plan to save your own seeds and grow your collection. There is a beautiful sense of accomplishment that comes not only from harvesting what you grew from seed, but also saving your best harvest’s seed so those plants can grow next year and the year after. Seeds pass on what they learned about their surroundings to the next generation, so if you save your seed, your plants will be stronger, happier and more adapted.

By observing local environmental patterns, managing the sun, building healthy soil, conserving water, fostering biodiversity and choosing resilient crops, you can grow a thriving vegetable garden even in the tough conditions of the Southwest.

Prepping garlic for planting.

Healthy garden bed with straw mulch.

Water-Wise Vegetable Gardening Webinar

With our hot summers and low precipitation, growing vegetables in NM can be challenging. This talk will provide strategies and recommendations for growers to cultivate a thriving vegetable harvest in the region. Discussion will include irrigation and infrastructure suggestions, as well as selection of vegetable varieties that are well-adapted to the area.


Instructor: Stephanie Walker, PhD. Professor and Vegetable Specialist, New Mexico
State University, Extension Plant Sciences Department.

Learn more here:

Vegetable and Herb Gardening in Small Spaces

Are you growing fruits or vegetables? Have you been wondering how much water to provide them to get a significant yield?

Vegetable Gardening in the Southwest

Easy Edible Plants for First-Time Growers

Authors: Sachika Goel and Cody Louscher, Water Conservation Specialist with the Water Authority. Have a question about the article or anything else? AskAnExpert@abcwua.org
Oaks and Mesquites: Varying the Tree Palette in Your Garden

Oaks and Mesquites: Varying the Tree Palette in Your Garden

by | Mar 3, 2026 | Blog, Planting, Tree Care

Trees play a vital role in the plant palette for Albuquerque gardens. They provide cooling shade, screening, and habitat for birds, pollinators and other wildlife. Trees take more time to establish than shrubs or smaller plants. They live longer but are more expensive than other plants, so it is vital to select a tree that will thrive and provide the most benefit over its lifespan.

Often people select trees based on what they see in their neighborhood or what is most readily available at the nurseries. Unfortunately, when too many of one species are planted, the possibility of pest issues rises greatly, and entire swaths of trees can die off at the same time. (For example, Dutch elm disease and emerald ash borers have killed millions of trees in other areas of the U.S.) Planting a diverse selection of trees minimizes the possibility of mass species extinction. Trees are generally resilient, and varying the species planted protects against a variety of harmful conditions.

Oaks

Oak trees (Quercus) tend to be very long-lived and tough trees, well adapted to the climate conditions in Albuquerque. There are about 30 species of oaks native to New Mexico. They vary greatly in size, form, foliage and growth rate. Some are deciduous while others are evergreen. There is an oak suitable for almost any place in your landscape.

Chinkapin (aka Chinquapin) oak — Quercus muehlenbergii — is a faster growing, larger oak for our area. They can grow from 25’ to 50’ tall . It produces large acorns which wildlife relish and were an important food source for Native Americans. They are an excellent shade tree with subtle color in the fall. This tree is both very heat and cold tolerant and prefers well-drained soil. Water to 24" depth twice a month once established at around three years. Tree establishment rule of thumb is the first year the tree sleeps, second year the tree creeps and the third year it is established and ready to leap.

Chinkapin Oak

Texas red oak — Quercus texana — is another large deciduous shade tree, growing to about 35’ in Albuquerque. This beauty has long-lasting, spectacular red to maroon fall foliage that will become a focal point in your garden. This tree prefers to be planted in cooler areas surrounded by wood chip mulch.

Texas Red Oak

Gambel oak — Quercus gambelii — is an adaptable, native deciduous tree whose shape can vary from a large shrubby cluster to a single-trunk tree. It grows 10’ to 30’ tall in groups and is found at both higher and lower elevations of our local mountains. It provides food and shelter to many wildlife species. Depending on its form and how it’s pruned, Gambel oak can be used as a informal hedge or as an individual shade tree. The red to maroon fall foliage gradually turns brown and persists well into winter, which can provide extended screening.

Quercus gambelii (Photo by @BrandtMagic)

Another native, shrub live oak — Quercus turbinella — has small, holly-like silvery green leaves. This slow grower should be considered more of a shrub and is found locally in the foothills. It is very long-lived (hundreds of years) and grows into a thick trunked form when fully mature. 

Escarpment live oak — Quercus fusiformus — is a regionally native tree that can grow 25’ to 30’ tall and 25’ wide in Albuquerque. Its oblong evergreen leaves provide both shade and year-round screening with the benefit of minimal fall cleanup. Make sure to plant the escarpment and the shrub live oak from late spring to the end of summer as cold season planting tends to stunt their establishment and growth.

Escarpment Live Oak

Mesquites

Mesquites are native trees well adapted to extreme heat and drought conditions. Some are not very cold hardy so are best planted in warm or protected microclimates (courtyards or against south or west facing walls). Their spring flowers provide a great resource for pollinators, and their beans can be ground into a sweet flour for baking. 

Honey mesquite — Prosopis glandulosa — is a great, tough, small to medium sized tree that can eventually be completely removed from irrigation. 'Maverick' mesquite is a thornless cultivar that is more user friendly in an urban landscape but is not as cold hardy. 'Maverick' can accommodate heavily trafficked courtyards and along pathways. Unlike the regular honey mesquite the 'Maverick' cultivar may need continued watering over its lifetime. Both these trees do better in warmer areas south of Albuquerque.

Honey Mesquite

Screwbean mesquite — Prosopis pubescens — is a very drought tolerant multi-trunk tree. It grows up to 20’ tall. As it can handle periods of extra water (flooding), it works well in a rainwater harvesting basin. Locally you will find it growing in the bosque near Socorro. Its unique seed pods look like wonderful mini sculptures. This tree may take some work to find in nurseries, but it is well worth the search. 

Screwbean Mesquite Pods

Fundamentally, when selecting trees for your landscape, it’s crucial to find a tree that will thrive in the space and micro-climate where you want to plant it. Oaks and mesquites can provide a variety of options in an Albuquerque garden.

Learn more here:

Let’s Plant Albuquerque

The Benefit of Trees

Tips for Keeping Mature Trees Healthy

Keep Your Trees Happy: Build a Tree Irrigation Watering System

Author: Hunter Ten Broeck, landscape contractor and owner of WaterWise Landscapes Inc. in Albuquerque. Have a question about the article or anything else? AskAnExpert@abcwua.org
Ornamental Grasses: How and When to Use Them

Ornamental Grasses: How and When to Use Them

by | Jan 30, 2026 | Blog, Planting

What is an ornamental grass? Most often, that term is used to describe cultivars of grasses that are used for specific visual appeal such as color, texture, form, movement, seed heads or other structural characteristics that give interest to our landscapes. Grass-like plants such as sedges and rushes are often included in this category. Most are clump-forming rather than spreading. They can be used as tall background screening, dramatic individual vertical forms or low clumping groundcovers. There is a grass or grass-like plant for virtually any spot in the landscape or garden.

Full sun, upright and mounding grasses

Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) is one of our most beautiful native grasses! Tall, growing 2-3 feet, this grass is narrow — just a foot or more wide — deep rooted and drought tolerant. This indispensable exclamation point stands upright in the landscape. It is medium green to icy blue in spring and summer months. When autumn and winter temperatures turn most grasses the color of dry straw, little bluestem shines subtly in shades of bronze, ochre and rust. Interspersed in a meadow with blue gramma and side oats grama, little bluestem punctuates the monochromatic tapestry. Standing alone, or in groupings, this grass produces autumn seed heads of silken silver fuzz that shine and shimmer when backlit by the rising or setting sun. Best in full sun and poor to moderate good draining soil. Reseeds easily. Cut once a year, to a low and rounded mound of about 3 inches in early spring, late February-mid March.

Little Bluestem Grass

Sand lovegrass (Eragrostis trichoides) is a wiry, fine bladed native grass tolerant of sandy to poor soils, full sun, drought, wind and heat. It forms a wide (2-3 feet), rounded mound. From late summer to autumn, seed heads appear on burgundy tinged panicles floating above the foliage. Airy and elegant, the seed heads are distinctive and lovely in dried arrangements. An individual showpiece, this grass looks great when planted in masses, too. Another light catcher that reseeds well. Cut once a year in early spring, to about 2-3 inches high.

Sand Lovegrass

Maiden grass (Miscanthus sinensis) is a non-native thatgrows 4-5 feet tall. Dwarf varieties are available that are 2-3 feet tall. The form is upright with the top of the plant spreading wider than the base. This grass can be 3-plus feet wide at the top and 2 feet wide at the base. A specimen grass, it’s not for meadows except as an accent or background and works well in groupings. Seed heads form mid to late season, at first appearing like narrow fingers, sometimes with coloration from pink to burgundy, all eventually drying to a blond fluffy appearance like golden clouds over the straw-like blades curling up and out. When backlit by the sun, this can be stunning. Moderate water for this grass is better than low water. Maiden grass does not reseed successfully in our area now but can be thinned and transplanted by division. Cut back once a year in spring, when new green becomes visible at the base. A cut at around 6-8 inches of height can be good for this large grass.

Maiden Grass

Karl Foerster or feather reed grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’) is a non-native, low maintenance vertical grass that produces seeds early, unlike most grasses which produce seed heads later in the season. Like Miscanthus, green and variegated (striped) cultivars are available. This grass likes full sun and moderate water and grows 3-4 feet tall and 1-2-plus feet wide. It makes a statement as a single plant and is great in groups or rows for a contemporary take on plant placement. Does not reseed. Cut back to a height of 3-5 inches once a year in early spring.

Karl Forester

Full sun to part shade grasses

June grass (Koeleria macrantha) is a native that can be found growing in our mountains in full sun to part shade. Narrow blue green blades 12-18 inches tall push up in early spring, soon followed by spiky seed heads. The seed heads flush out into narrow, pointed silky bottle brush shapes, catching morning and afternoon light that makes them appear illuminated. Not fussy about soil, except when heavy and wet, this tough grass is drought tolerant and deer resistant. As a cool season grass, it may go dormant in hot dry summers, especially at lower elevations. So while appealing, this plant does not flourish in a hot and dry xeriscape.

June grass

Blue avena (Helictotrichon sempervirens), also called blue oat grass, has wiry ice blue blades that form a low, rounded mound around 18-30 inches tall and wide. Narrow seed heads push up, and the seeds soon turn straw colored and give an oat like appearance. This cool season grass is not fussy about soil and is drought tolerant when established. Does not reseed. Cut back once a year in early spring to a rounded 2- to 4-inch mound.

Blue Avena

Blue fescue (Festuca ovina glauca) is a blue green form of native sheep’s fescue (Festuca ovina). Fine, needlelike blades and wiry, thin, straw colored seed heads make this small (6-8 inch) grass perfect for small areas, borders and rock gardens. Often keeping color through the winter, this grass is drought tolerant when established. Straight species can reseed while named cultivars like Elijah Blue do not reseed well. Cut back once a year to a height of 2 inches. Requires shade to do well.

Blue Fescue

Maintenance and selection tips:

Most grasses benefit from having old dry growth thinned out of the center every few years at the time they are cut back. Many grasses can be used in containers or large pots. Grass trimmings can be used as mulch in the landscape (careful with seeds if you don’t want seedlings) or added to your compost.

Some ornamental grasses like pampas grass and Ravenna grass have become invasive here, particularly in the Rio Grande Bosque, so are no longer recommended. Large native grasses like giant sacaton (Sporobolus wrightii) and switch grasses (Panicum species) are good substitutes. There are many species of native grasses that are tough, ornamental, easy to care for and beneficial to native insects, birds and other wildlife, thus being wise selections for our landscapes and gardens. 

Learn more here:

What Type of Grass is that?

New and Underutilized Plants for 2026!

Climate Ready Landscapes!

Author: Wes Brittenham, landscape professional. Have a question about the article or anything else? AskAnExpert@abcwua.org

Common Planting Design Mistakes

Common Planting Design Mistakes

by | Jan 30, 2026 | Blog, Design, Do It Yourself (DIY), Planting

1. Too many different plants spread out like polka dots

Often when homeowners begin to design their yard, they get excited by the variety of plants in our Xeriscape Guide. Similarly, going to a well-stocked nursery in the spring can be like going to a candy store — you might say to yourself, ‘I’ll take one of everything!’ However, it’s good advice to resist that urge and instead attempt a more cohesive ensemble of plants and trees. Grouping plants, especially smaller ones or perennials that have less dense forms, can maximize their effect by creating masses of various sizes and contribute to the feeling of a more natural landscape. 

In these instances, you can pair plants that have widely different leaf shapes, like the agave and ephedra pictured below. The effect is something you wouldn’t appreciate if there was a large gap between the plants. A lot of flora have distinctive attributes like bark patterns, seedheads, dried flowers or an overall shape that allow them to stand out when accompanied by contrasting plants.

If you’re not sure where to start on your own yard design, check out our landscape templates here. You’ll notice there is a lot of variety in each design, but the same plant symbols appear next to each other throughout the yards. The three landscape architects and designers who contributed these templates have tons of combined experience designing beautiful and sustainable landscapes in New Mexico, and their templates are worth checking out!

Benefits of installing multiple plants of the same variety

  • Visual impact: Let’s take a really great flowering perennial like Gaura or whirling butterflies (Oenothera lindheimeri) as an example. It has airy small white (or light pink) flowers less than an inch wide atop thin branches that sway in the breeze — visually it doesn’t stand out unless you’re right in front of it. If you were to plant a single specimen of Gaura in the middle of a yard it could almost disappear.  Instead, we suggest a group of three in a triangle or row closer to paths or windows to maximize their impact — just like they’ve done in this photo taken at Presbyterian Rust Medical Center on the West Side.
  • Attracting pollinators: Grouping flowering plants that attract pollinators can really make it worth the effort for them to visit. Perennials bloom at different times from spring to fall, and in a small yard you may have only one type of plant flowering at a given time. A group of at least three of the same perennial will be hard for pollinators to miss as they go about their business of collecting pollen and nectar. Then they’ll be able to save their energy for building nests and breeding.
  • Reduced maintenance: If you’re new to xeriscaping or gardening, having fewer varieties of plants in groups can make maintaining them (and learning names and growth habits) less overwhelming. Instead of starting out with a mishmash of plants installed everywhere, you’ll be able to get your head around the maintenance more easily because the yard is divided into manageable areas. Also, if you pay someone for yard care, you may need to explain to them when, how (and if) to do the work. A smaller plant palette grouped by variety can help simplify the job. You could say to them: “This year for all the woody evergreen shrubs next to the sidewalk, don’t use hedge trimmers but do remove one-third of the oldest branches at the base.” 

So if you head to the nursery to buy 10 plants this spring, consider coming home with just two or three varieties that together will make a real impression.

2. Symmetrical vs. informal plant layout

Another mistake DIYers sometimes make when designing landscapes is opting for a symmetrical layout for the new plants. For instance, they will have corresponding rows of evergreen shrubs on either side of a path as shown below. There are a couple of reasons why this is less than ideal. One is that an unhealthy plant (or worse, one that is dead) is immediately noticeable. Also, in a formal layout, you’re anticipating that the plants will grow to a uniform size and shape. However, this is not the case with native and xeric-adapted plants (and most plants, really). Once in the ground, they’ll be responding to all sorts of different conditions. Too much shade from a nearby tree limits a plant’s mature size, or extra water from the roof causes one to get larger than the others, for example. And if you did need to replace one plant in a formal layout, it could take a while for the new one to catch up to the others (assuming you able to find the same variety as the originals).  

In an informal or “naturalistic” layout, a missing plant is not an issue because there’s not an expectation for that space to be filled. It also allows flexibility in the design — shade-loving plants near the tree, plants that can handle more water under the downspout. If a particular plant isn’t doing well, you can transplant it to another location. Using an informal or naturalistic planting design allows you to add to your garden over time as it matures and changes for years to come. 

Selecting plants for your yard can feel overwhelming to a new gardener. We hope these tips help you avoid common mistakes, and remember that we're always here to support you. If you have questions about plant selection, feel free to send photos and details of your yard to askanexpert@abcwua.org — we’ll be happy to help.

Learn more here:

Let’s Plant Albuquerque

Simple Steps to Get Started Designing your Yard

Desert Friendly Design Templates

Author: Carl Christensen, Xeriscape Inspector. Have a question about the article or anything else? AskAnExpert@abcwua.org