Leave those leaves.

Leave those leaves.

Some of our best landscaping practices can be learned from Mother Nature. Every autumn, leaves fall to the ground, sheltering the soil and beneficial organisms, returning organic matter back to the ground, and perpetuating the nutrient cycling essential for good plant health. This year we want you to think about leaving those leaves in your garden. When we allow leaves to follow their natural life cycle, we can enjoy a colorful tapestry on our landscape as well as all the benefits provided by an organic mulch.

With these tips, you can spend less time raking leaves into plastic bags and enjoy more fall fun:

  1. When designing your landscape, make your pathways and hardscapes above the level of your planting areas. The wind will naturally blow leaves into the low spots where they will support soil and plant health. This also happens to be a great water harvesting strategy.
  2. Use organic mulches instead of gravel. Organic mulches such as wood mulch are visually accommodating to leaf litter (meaning you won’t notice them as much), allow for the leaves to decompose into the porous spaces and build soil. Leaves break down to virtually nothing in this environment. If you prefer a tidy look, follow up with a light topdressing of mulch for a finished appearance.
  3. If the leaf load is too much to manage directly under your trees, rake the leaves a little off the top and distribute them throughout your yard – ideally to a compost heap where the leaf litter will become an excellent soil amendment for your spring garden. Note: if you have chickens, they will turn your leaves into next to nothing in a matter of days.
  4. If you have a lawn, run your lawn mower over the leaves and let the crumbled litter work its way back into the soil. The addition of organic material to your lawn in the fall will give a boost to your lawn when it wakes up in the spring.

There are a few instances when you should remove fall leaf litter. Leaves from diseased plants – particularly fruit trees and roses - should be taken to a compost facility to be recycled. While you can try to compost them yourself, be advised that most backyard compost piles do not reach a high enough temperature to kill pathogens. Also, xeric plants that grow naturally in rocky terrain will be susceptible to crown rot if organic material is piled up around their bases.

Leaving fall leaves has another great benefit – it is carbon neutral. Carbon is sequestered in the soil, leaf blowers and plastic bags are removed from the equation, leaves don’t end up in a landfill or produce methane gas, and no transport to the landfill is required. It’s a win-win when we let Mother Nature be our guide.

Author: Paulina Aguilera-Eaton, Water Conservation Specialist with Albuquerque Bernalillo Water Utility Authority
Simple Fall Maintenance for Albuquerque Landscapes

Simple Fall Maintenance for Albuquerque Landscapes

505Outside sat down with local landscape expert Wes Brittenham, Farm and Landscape Manager at Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm, to chat about Fall maintenance tasks for Albuquerque gardens. At Los Poblanos, Wes oversees all growing things on their 25 acres, from the historic gardens to the newer more xeric and multi-functional landscapes, as well as the kitchen garden and the fields of lavender.

Wes has noticed many homeowners with traditional landscaped yards keep them highly pruned with perfectly trimmed rounded plants free and clear of leaf litter and debris. Over the last 15 years, as homeowners have made the shift to xeriscape landscapes (aka desert friendly) he’s noticed they haven’t shifted their maintenance regimens. They should.

Xeriscape landscapes don’t require the rigorous maintenance that traditional landscapes do, so he’s been teaching homeowners to “get over the tidiness!” He wants homeowners to embrace the shape of native plants and, in general, do less yard work. Especially in the Fall.

When asked what homeowners can do to prepare their landscapes for winter, he gave us a short list of surprisingly simple to-dos:

  1. Leave it natural. There is no need to prune! So leave stems with seed heads in place. This includes grasses, perennials and shrubs. The dead stems, leaves and seed heads provide natural habitats for wildlife all winter. They also give the garden good structure over the winter. When Albuquerque gets a blanket of snow, the wispy seed heads of the grasses create a beautiful silhouette. Leaving dead foliage insulates the plants from winter freeze damage, too.
  2. Do clean up fruit and vegetable debris from gardens. This helps reduce bug populations and prevents fungus problems.
  3. Leave the leaves. When the trees start losing their leaves, rake them around the base of plants to provide habitat, retain moisture, and create natural mulch under the plant.

With over four decades of experience, Wes’s advice is extremely useful for local homeowners. Efficiency is key, so use his three simple tips for a great fall and winter landscape and minimal yard work this Fall.

Expert: Wes Brittenham, Farm and Landscape Manager at Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm

Ramp down your watering schedule for the Fall

Ramp down your watering schedule for the Fall

Your landscape needs a lot less water in September than it did in the summertime. About 35 percent less on average. The days may still be warm, but shorter days and cooler nights in the months of September, October and November means less evaporation, which means less irrigation is required. Adjust your irrigation controller following the Fall Season Watering Recommendations to save water and money this Fall.

Ramping down your landscape irrigation does not mean you need to stop watering all together. If you have a lawn, cut back to two days per week. Cut back to two to four days a month for trees. Fall is when trees, shrubs and other perennial plants get busy growing their roots, and proper watering supports this activity. After spending the summer putting energy into growing leaves, flowers and fruit producing plants take advantage of the fall season by anchoring their root system to the earth. It’s important to fortify root systems during the Fall so they have a stronger trunk and stem during the winter season.

Fall season is also a great time to put in new plants, for the same reason – they spend their time growing their root system instead of leaves and flowers. But new plants need more frequent watering to help them get established. Keep in mind that new plants need at least a month to anchor in the ground before the first freeze, so don’t plant too late in the season to avoid damage.

And remember it is not necessary to irrigate when it rains, or on days following a good rain event (or about a 1/2" of rain). Using nature as your source of water encourages a desert friendly landscape.

Want to know how much your landscape really needs? Call 505-289-3003 to schedule a free, efficient irrigation consultation with a Water Authority expert.

Plants for Fall Color

Plants for Fall Color

One of the great advantages of desert-adapted plants is the wealth of colorful flowers they produce, a boon to gardeners and pollinators alike. Plants that bloom in autumn offer pollen and nectar for insects and, if the seed heads are left to ripen, a late season food source for birds.

After a long hot summer, some plants think the cool of fall means it’s spring again and burst into bloom with renewed vibrance. Salvia greggii is commonly called autumn sage because, even though it flowers brilliantly in spring and lightly all summer, fall brings on another strong show. Responding to the cooler, longer nights in autumn, Salvia’s late season color becomes even more intense. Autumn sage is a compact shrub that grows 2-feet tall and 3-feet wide, with small dark green leaves and spikes of flowers in red, rose pink, coral, purple or white. Hummingbirds and bees are frequent visitors. Autumn sage prefers well-drained soil and deep watering (24 to 30 inches) every week or two while blooming, monthly or less in winter.

Autumn sage, Salvia greggii

Many ornamental grasses are their showiest in autumn, too. There are several varieties of little bluestem Schizachryium scoparium with 12-inch wide clumps of narrow blue-green leaves and 24-inch tall slender stems bearing fuzzy seed heads. ‘Blaze’ little bluestem turns scarlet in fall and ‘The Blues’ turns a beautiful pink. Both keep their color into winter when they fade to a rich bronzy brown. The color is our reward for supplying the little extra water these grasses need.

Native grasses are also important larval food for butterflies and produce nutritious seeds for songbirds, bringing color on wings to the garden. Since the seed heads are a large part of the reason they are planted, ornamental grasses should be left uncut until early spring. Then, trim them a few inches from the ground so the new growth is not stymied by having to push through old stubble to reach sunlight.

Little bluestem Schizachryium scoparium

Perhaps the most spectacular late blooming perennial is the Maximilian sunflower Helianthus maximiliani. By early autumn, its flower stems are 5 to 7-feet tall. Established plants can spread 4 or more feet wide, shooting up dozens of flower stems. The top few feet of the stems are covered in 2-inch wide yellow sunflowers with yellow centers abuzz with bees. The show can last for several weeks in September or October, but after the flowers fade the plants become a bird buffet of seeds well into winter. Maximilian sunflowers grow best in soils that hold water well and produce the best show when watered to a depth of 2 feet weekly during the growing season, every two weeks in spring and fall and monthly or less in winter.

Maximilian sunflower, Helianthus maximiliani

Flowers aren’t the only source of fall color, either, but red leaves in fall are not the norm in New Mexico. Cottonwoods in the Bosque and aspens in the mountains are our autumn gold. Chinese pistache Pistacia chinensis has become one of the most dependable heat and drought tolerant shade trees and adds splashes of red fall foliage in the ABQ metro area. A great shade tree that is 20 to 30-feet tall at maturity with a canopy spread of 20-feet, Chinese pistache benefits from structural pruning while it is young to assure strong branching. Once well rooted, it should be watered at the edge of the branch canopy to a depth of 2 to 3 feet every few weeks during the growing season and monthly or less depending on winter moisture.

Chinese pistache, Pistacia chinensis

Author: Judith Phillips, owner of Design Oasis, landscape designer and garden writer with 30 years experience designing arid-adapted and native gardens in the high desert.

What are high efficiency rotary nozzles and why should you use them in your lawn?

What are high efficiency rotary nozzles and why should you use them in your lawn?

Grass lawns in the greater Albuquerque area require supplemental irrigation in order to survive our high desert climate. Most residential landscapes are watered by pop up spray heads with conventional nozzles, as pictured below.

Pop up spray head

But did you know that water waste from these conventional spray nozzles can be reduced by simply swapping the nozzle out for high efficiency rotary nozzles? And for just a few dollars per head. Rotary nozzles improve irrigation efficiency by delivering water more slowly. That prevents runoff by giving soil time to absorb the water and allows the water to reach the root zone of the plant. These nozzles also deliver water in a larger droplet size, making the spray less susceptible to being carried off by the wind. This is all accomplished via their distinctive multiple rotating streams of water, pictured below.

High efficiency rotary nozzle

505Outside visited local irrigation supply stores to find out their most frequently asked questions about these nozzles.

Can I replace my existing spray nozzles with these high efficiency rotary nozzles?

Yes. In most cases it’s as simple as unscrewing the existing nozzle and dropping in the rotary nozzle and filter basket. These are available at any local irrigation supply store. If you bring in your existing spray head, the staff can recommend the best solution for you. Water Authority has rebates available for the purchase of rotary nozzles, too. Visit the link here.

Sounds too good to be true. Are there any negatives?

They tend to clog with the hard water typically found in Albuquerque. Make sure the brand you select comes with an inline filter basket, so you can easily flush out and unclog your spray head.

What else should I know about high efficiency rotary nozzles?

They require longer run times. This is where most homeowners get confused. Wouldn’t a longer run time mean I’m using more water? The answer is no, because rotary nozzles deliver water at a slower rate than typical spray nozzles. Therein lies the efficiency: water saturates deep into the root zone rather than running off and evaporating. This can also help reduce the frequency of runs, thereby saving water.

They work best at 30-40 psi. If the pressure running through your irrigation system is too high, the rotary nozzle will spin out of control and break. The average pounds per inch (psi) in Albuquerque ranges between 40 and 70 psi, so you may need a pressure regulator on your system to avoid damage. Check with your local supplier to figure out if you need to regulate the pressure on your system, and how.

They are adjustable. Most rotary nozzle brands provide matched precipitation rates across radius, arcs, and pattern types, making it easy to install a system with even distribution. Nozzles can be easily adjusted by tool or by hand while the heads are running, to avoid water waste through overspray.

Stop by your local irrigation supplier and learn all about these high efficiency rotary nozzles.

High efficiency rotary nozzle watering a 135 degree angle.


Creating living shade with vines

Creating living shade with vines

While it is fantastic living in the Southwest where the sun shines over 310 days a year, sometimes landscapes and homeowners alike crave shade. Large trees provide great shade but may take a long time to grow. So to create fast shade for patios and windows, choose vines. Luckily many vines grow well in Albuquerque, including evergreen vines, flowering vines, fruiting vines and many more. Below are four favorites of 505Outside for the Albuquerque area.

1. Wisteria, Wisteria sinensis: The pendulous lavender flowers of this vine are some of the first to bloom in the spring. Bright green leaves follow shortly thereafter, filling up the plant and creating lots of dappled shade below. Once the flowers fade, the leaves fill in to provide dense shade in the summer. Prepare for wisteria vines to get woody over time. Strategic training of the stems is also recommended. Wisteria grows well in sun, shade and part shade. Mature height and spread are 25’ to 30’ x 25’ to 40’.

Wisteria growing over a front door trellis.

2. Lady Banks Rose, Rosa banksiae: Rarely do you find a plant that is fast growing, evergreen and long-lived. Lady Banks Rose is all those things, and it produces a beautiful if brief show of flowers in spring. And it uses surprisingly little water. This plant grows large and, unlike most roses, blooms on old wood.

3. Trumpet Vine, Campsis radicans: Orange and yellow trumpet-like flowers grace this beautiful deciduous vine. Train it to grow onto a shade structure. It is a fast grower but you must provide a strong enough support and enough space for this vigorous rambler.

4. Grape vines, multiple varieties: New Mexico is one of the oldest grape growing regions in North America. For covering a trellis or arbor look for vigorous growers. Grape vines like to have moist feet during the first year of establishment. Grapes will grow wild and crazy if not trained and strategically pruned during the winter months. They also need constant redirecting, so tie the vines to the trellis with twine, checking on it every other week during the growing season. These are deciduous so be prepared for a sculptural woody vista throughout the winter months.

Grape vines growing next to an outdoor patio.

Try growing any of these vines on open lattice ramadas, arbors and pergolas. While wood is the most often used material for these structures because it is simple and easy to build, in the Albuquerque climate steel is an ideal choice. Steel structures are strong, long lasting and maintenance free. No matter what material you choose, creating living shade with vines can be rewarding.

Author: Jill Brown, ASLA Landscape Architect and owner of My Landscape Coach in Albuquerque, NM.
Resources: Down to Earth, A Gardener's Guide to the Albuquerque Area by Albuquerque Area Extension Master Gardeners. Growing the Southwest Garden and New Mexico's Gardener's Guide by Judith Phillips.