The Albuquerque metro area has a wide variety of landscapes. These include desert friendly landscapes, lush pollinator friendly xeriscapes and wildscapes or prairie plantings where native grasses and wildflowers bring the feel of a prairie to a yard and attract wildlife. Rain gardens are specifically designed to make the most of natural precipitation, while edible landscapes have garden beds or edible plants interspersed throughout them. Efficient turfscapes have smaller areas of turfgrass and diverse plantings. Conventional turfscapes, with large areas of cool-season grasses and high-water-use foundation shrub plantings, are no longer considered desert friendly landscapes. The term “desert friendly” now describes a variety of landscapes that include beautiful, diverse plantings with increased resiliency achieved through efficient watering.
Wildscapes or prairie plantings take advantage of natural landscape techniquess and plant choices that attract wildlife. These types of landscapes include native warm-season grasses and a mix of native and adaptive plants, including wildflowers.
A wildscape may be designed to rely more heavily on natural precipitation to sustain established plants than a xeriscape. Both natural precipitation and temporary irrigation are needed at first. Establishment in the grass areas often takes three years and possibly longer for trees. Monitoring and removing weeds is critical during this early period. Wildscapes also require less frequent yet deeper watering than a regular cool season turfgrass lawn.
Pro Tips for Irrigation of Wildscapes:
• Consider a mix of high-efficiency sprayers or rotors (for the native grass area) and drip irrigation or inline dripline (for shrubs and trees) on separate zones. Specific zones can be turned off after the plantings are firmly established.
• If you are using rotors or spray irrigation in native grass areas, make sure they will clear the tall grass. Use rotors with a high angle of throw or 12-inch to 18-inch pop-up sprayers.
• Leave the irrigation system in place, even if the plan is to rely on natural precipitation, so supplemental watering is available during times of extreme heat or drought.
Learn more about specific types of gardening here:
As homeowners around the Greater Albuquerque area are converting their high-water use turfgrass areas to desert-friendly xeriscapes, many are choosing to use wood chip mulch instead of gravel, which can be hot, expensive and also very good at cultivating weeds. Gravel can use up to as much as 60% of the materials cost of a landscape transformation project.
The Water Authority checked in on some recent xeriscape conversion projects that use wood chip mulch. One of these homes was built in the 1950’s and is located in the near NE Heights, an area where the original landscapes for homes consisted of both front and backyards with Bermuda grass and large elm trees. The homeowners wanted to remove the grass in both the front and back of the house and create desert-friendly xeriscapes while retaining their mature trees. They became fans of wood chip mulch many years ago while living in Florida. “Wood chip mulch is easy to maintain,” explains the homeowner. “I do nothing to it except occasionally blow out whatever drifts into the swales and top dress it every couple of years with a thin layer of new mulch. Not only does it reduce the evaporation of moisture from the soil, it helps keep our property much cooler than rock because it doesn’t retain heat or reflect the intense light we get here. I also think the mulch along with the trees helps dull the sounds of the city.”
The mulch, which is laid down 3” to 4” deep, makes weeding much less of a task. Fewer things germinate in the mulch and when things do – in particular, the zillions of elm seeds that drop every spring — all that’s needed is to rake back the mulch layer, let it dry out for a day or so, and then rake it back into place. The seedlings dry up, die and become part of the mulch layer. The hardest part of the project, according to the homeowner, was removing the Bermuda grass. Due to the nature of its rooting system, the grass was completely eradicated before beginning the installation process. In this situation, the homeowner used an herbicide treatment to eradicate the grass. Since there are many options for eradication, we invite homeowners to take advantage of our free, ask-an-expert email service, AskAnExpert@abcwua.org, if you have questions about what type of lawn you have or any other questions about xeriscape transformations.
It’s been two years since their yard transformation. The homeowners say they noticed changes in the wildlife in their yard almost immediately. Fruit-bearing shrubs and wildflowers are allowed to go to seed, which means there are food sources for pollinators and birds most of the year as well as more cover in which critters can take shelter.
Since these homeowners moved to Albuquerque from a subtropical area, they did note that the one big lesson has been how much patience is required when undertaking a project like this in our desert environment. “The first year, most of what had been planted survived the winter, but a lot of things didn’t show much growth,” explains the homeowner. “I was a little frustrated. But this spring, things just burst forth – partially because of the amount of rain, but also because it simply takes that long for things to really establish a root system that can sustain significant growth.”
Sitting in their yard is more enjoyable now, say the homeowners, as the cooler landscape makes the outdoors more comfortable. They continue to learn from their landscape, picking up a few new irrigation drip skills along the way. They receive many positive comments from neighbors and are proud that their yard is an example of a healthy, sustainable and low-water use desert-friendly landscape.
Additional Facts on Mulches:
Wood chip mulchinsulates plant roots from both heat and cold, reducing moisture loss from the soil by evaporation, feeding beneficial soil microorganisms that enhance plant growth and improving soil health. This makes the soil more sponge-like and better able to hold water. By installing 3”- 4” of mulch over bare dirt, weeds are reduced, the soil is enriched and new plants retain more moisture.
Another benefit of organic mulches is that they can visually accommodate a little bit of leaf litter, reducing the need for constant raking and clean-up. A thin top dressing of mulch added every 2-3 years keeps the landscape looking fresh and replaces the material that has broken down to sustain the soil. Organic mulches are also lightweight, making them easy to transport in a wheelbarrow and spread with a rake.
Mulches are available in bags from most local garden centers (avoid the ones dyed with different colors as these will fade) and in bulk from several retailers in the Albuquerque area. When you buy from local bulk retailers, you are supporting the recycling of local organic materials that may otherwise end up wasting away in a landfill and contributing to greenhouse gas emissions. Buying bulk also means less plastic! Mulch can sometimes be available at no cost. Check with your local tree trimming companies and/or try your local county for free mulch resources. Mulches are a renewable resource that will improve landscape health and conserve water.
In areas of higher wind exposure or periodic inundation with water, use a wood chip mulch that is irregularly shaped and sized as the pieces will knit together better. This type of mulch can be recycled yard waste and tree trimmings as well as commercially-available, locally-processed wood products.
Property Data:
Homeowner converted 4,640 square feet of Bermuda grass to a desert-friendly xeriscape. Total gallons saved since conversion: 61,001 gallons. Total gallons per month homeowner saves: 3,050 gallons. Total rebate received: $4,740
Thinking about converting your yard from high-water use grass to xeriscape? Check out the Desert Friendly Xeriscape Rebate page to learn more about the qualifications, requirements and process to apply for this generous rebate. Additionally, xeriscape rebate participants get 25% off the cost of installing bulk organic mulch up to $100. If you want to top dress mulch around your trees, take advantage of our Treebates. You are welcome to contact our xeriscape specialist Amos Arber, at aarber@abcwua.org or 505-208-2015
Author: Amos Arber, Xeriscape Rebate Inspector with the Water Resources Conservation Department for the Water Authority. And Jill Brown, ASLA MyLandscapeCoach.com Have a question about the article? AskAnExpert@abcwua.org
Regardless of how you water, you will want to create a berm, or raised “dam,” on the downside when planting on a slope. This berm captures any rainfall coming down the slope, detaining it long enough to soak in, and also holds water that comes from irrigation or hand-watering. By cutting away part of the slope on the upside of the plant, there’s additional room to capture and retain more water. Our diagram (put the word “above” or “below” here, as is appropriate) shows these methods using a berm with wood mulch. Our preference is to create the berm out of soil and apply shredded wood mulch inside the well created by the berm because shredded wood mulch will help moisture stay longer in the soil.
If you are watering plants by hand, turn down the pressure and place the hose on the uphill side of the plant so the water runs into the well and the berm slowly. By doing it this way, you will have to repair the well and berm less frequently. If you are watering with a bubbler or drip system, always make sure that the bubblers or emitters are placed on the upside of the slope and the plant so the water comes down the slope into the well and has a chance to penetrate the root zone located in the well and bermed area. Finally, if you are watering plants on a slope with Netafim (in-line emitter drip tubing), you can place the loops or grid of tubing throughout the well area, held in by the berm. The water will drip very slowly and be contained within the bermed well.
Having grass on slopes is discouraged because it is very difficult to keep your grass healthy without watering inefficiently. If you need to water grass on slopes, please carefully check out the section of our irrigation efficiency guide on cycle and soak.
By following these simple steps, you should be able to efficiently water and successfully plant on a slope.
The Albuquerque metro area has a wide variety of landscape types, which include desert-friendly landscapes, lush pollinator-friendly xeriscapes and wildscapes or prairie plantings where native grasses and wildflowers bring the feel of a prairie to a yard. Rain gardens are specifically designed to make the most of natural precipitation, while edible landscapes have garden beds or edible plants interspersed throughout them. Efficient turfscapes have smaller areas of turfgrass and diverse plantings. Conventional turfscapes, with large areas of cool-season grasses and high-water foundation shrub plantings, are no longer considered desert-friendly landscapes. The term “desert-friendly” now describes a variety of landscapes that include beautiful, diverse plantings with increased resiliency achieved through efficient watering.
Rain gardens, a subset of xeriscapes, maximize the benefits of active and passive rainwater harvesting. Plant choices become more critical, particularly if the intent is to use little supplemental irrigation.
Pro Tips for Rain Gardens:
* Direct any overflow from a rain barrel or cistern into a passive water harvesting system.
* Prioritize trees for passive rainwater harvesting.
* Choose low-water and rainwater-only plants for the best results.
* Contour the soil to create gentle berms that drain better. Put water-loving plants in the low spots (swales) where rainwater and irrigation water collect.
One of our favorite things to do at Bennu Organics is design container gardens. We like to talk about the “wow factor,” and containers are a fantastic way to add stunning, season-long color to our landscapes without digging a single hole in our hard, unforgiving soil.
Here are six helpful hints for creating your own successful container designs:
1) Location: Will the containers be in full sun, partial sun or full shade? In most cases, full sun containers in New Mexico require daily watering. If you don’t want to water every day, consider selecting plants that require less water, like succulents, cacti or perennials. Placing containers in partial shade will also save water. It’s important to know the amount of sunlight you will have available for each container prior to purchasing plants.
2) Size: What size are the containers, or what size do you want them to be if you’re purchasing them? You’ll need plenty of soil to fill or refresh the containers, and you want to make sure you have enough plant material to give your containers a nice, full look.
3) Design: Well-designed containers require three types of plants: thrillers, fillers and spillers. The thriller is something tall and showy, while fillers are shorter plants that fill in the spaces. Spillers are those low vining-type plants that spill gracefully over the sides of the container.
4) Color theme: I like picking a color palette and then selecting different plants within that palette. I don’t want my containers to be identical, but I do want them to complement each other. Also, depending on the locations of the containers, I will often do a “mirror image” design if the containers are on either side of an entry way, for example.
5) Lighting and water: Select plants that have similar lighting and water requirements. You don’t want to put a cactus as a thriller and wave petunias as your filler. One or both will suffer from too much or a lack of water.
6) Maintenance: Besides watering consistently, you will want to trim and deadhead your designs frequently. Petunias and calibrachoa (classified both as fillers and spillers) need regular deadheading to keep the blooms going strong. Trim them heavily when they get “leggy.” They respond well to a really good haircut. If you are consistent with your maintenance and watering, the containers should keep their “wow factor” all season long. Also, regular fertilizing is crucial to maintaining season-long blooms. In the active growing season, we fertilize our containers every two weeks.
While the following list of possible plants you can use in containers is hardly comprehensive, it should help get your creative juices flowing:
Shade/Part Shade
Thrillers: caladium, alocasia, sansevieria/dracaena, colocasia, cordyline, etc.
Fillers: bacopa, begonias, Boston fern, caladium, coleus, begonias, dusty miller, impatiens, etc.
Finally, your container designs should bring you joy, so get creative! What do you love? What are your goals? Do you want to attract hummingbirds and butterflies? Do you want fragrance? Do you want a color explosion, or are you looking for something more subdued? Your containers should reflect their designer, so pick things that you really enjoy — not just the plants you see on Pinterest or in magazines, although if you love the ones you see in those places, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery! Some people like to use all annuals, some like a combination of annuals and perennials and some even add edible plants into their designs. The sky is the limit!
As with all things related to plants, design and gardening, remember that everything we do is a grand experiment. Don’t feel guilty if you mistakenly combine a low-water plant and a high-water plant in the same container and one of them dies. Learn from your experience and simply replace the dead plant with something more suitable.
The Albuquerque metro area has a wide variety of landscapes. These include desert-friendly landscapes, lush pollinator-friendly xeriscapes and wildscapes or prairie plantings where native grasses and wildflowers bring the feel of a prairie to a yard. Rain gardens are specifically designed to make the most of natural precipitation, while edible landscapes have garden beds or edible plants interspersed throughout them. Efficient turfscapes have smaller areas of turfgrass and diverse plantings. Conventional turfscapes, with large areas of cool-season grasses and high-water foundation shrub plantings, are no longer considered desert-friendly landscapes. The term “desert-friendly” now describes a variety of landscapes that include beautiful, diverse plantings with increased resiliency achieved through efficient watering.
Edible landscapes feature herb, vegetable and fruit-producing plants that can have a wide variety of watering needs. If you choose to grow food in your yard with drip irrigation, in-line emitted tubing is the most efficient way to water. We recommend setting up separate irrigation zones due to the daily watering needs of edible plants in summer. Hand watering is an option if drip irrigation is not possible.
Here are tips for starting a vegetable garden.
Good soil and regular watering are keys to having a successful garden. In the dry Southwest rich soils don’t form naturally, so you’ll first need to create a good soil and then maintain it.
Setting up wide garden beds makes the most efficient use of amended garden soil and applied irrigation. John Jeavon’s excellent book How to Grow More Vegetables Than You Ever Thought Possible on Less Land Than You Can Imagine has valuable information about why and how to set up wide beds.
You may need to break up the soil before planting your first garden. Once the soil is loosened and amended, it’s better to work in new compost with hand tools and to mulch deeply with an organic mulch. Hand tools have advantages. They don’t destroy the living soil the way mechanical tillage does. They also aren’t noisy and don’t smell like exhaust. A great benefit is that you get exercise while using them!
Drip irrigation is ideal for vegetable beds, and there are numerous ways to set up a good system. If you are using an outdoor hose bib, be sure to include anti-siphon devices, pressure reducers and good filters to keep everything safe and functional.
Add organic mulch! There are a number of choices for organic mulch.
Here are some good vegetables to plant, based on the season.
Spring: Try out kale/chard with radish and turnips or try peas with a radish, turnip/carrot combo.
Summer: Try tomatoes and peppers mixed with herbs and chile. If you want to be nostalgic and adventurous, try the “Three Sisters” — corn, squash and beans. It’s best to choose pole beans, like green beans.
