Best Native Plants for Re-seeding

Best Native Plants for Re-seeding

Are you interested in finding plants for your landscape that easily reproduce from seed? Perhaps plants that are beneficial for wildlife create a natural look and cover a lot of ground? How would you recognize a seedling of one of these species? In this article, we will look at a dozen species of native plants — including trees, shrubs, grasses and wildflowers — that germinate naturally, transplant easily when small, fill in your landscape or garden with beauty, are easy to care for and are low to moderate water users.

 

Trees:

Close up of Desert Willow flower (Photo by Wes Brittenham)

Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis)

This lovely drought tolerant native is not a true willow, but the long, narrow leaves are similar enough to willows to inspire the common name. The lovely, ruffled flowers come in a variety of colors from white to pink to deep burgundy and attract hummingbirds and a wide variety of other pollinators. This tree can range from 12 to 20 feet tall and wide and is appreciated for its dramatic sculptural form, with curvy branching that creates a sinuous feel. Often multi-trunked, its signature orchid-like flowers appear in abundance in spring and frequently repeat throughout the warmer months. With careful proper pruning, this tree is a lovely addition to any landscape, casting light shade and requiring only monthly deep watering after several years of establishment.

 

Unless you have a seedless cultivar, this plant produces a prodigious amount of narrow, elongated seed pods resembling thin, dried bean pods. It will germinate in poor soil, gravel or crusher fine mulches — or anywhere the seed catches and gets the moisture and light it needs. A deep-rooted species, this native transplants easily when tiny, within the first couple of years of growth. After that, the deep roots can be damaged by digging. Recognize young plants by the narrow leaves that look like miniature versions of the mature leaves, usually a single vertical stem a few inches tall when you first notice it. It is easy to gather seeds and grow in containers.

Forestiera pubescens var. pubescens (photo by Brandt Magic)

New Mexico Olive (Forestiera neomexicana/Forestiera pubescens var. pubescens)

Sometimes also called New Mexico privet, this native bosque understory plant is neither an olive nor a privet. Common names often refer to an aspect of the plant that reminds people of a familiar landscape plant. Some folks prune this plant severely to resemble privet hedges, though that is not recommended. Usually multi-trunked, this plant hovers between large shrub and small tree, growing from 10 to 15 feet tall and 5 to 10 feet wide. It is happy in full sun to moderate shade, and the female plant produces small purplish berries that are beloved by many birds. The birds deposit the seeds with their natural fertilizer, and you will find transplantable volunteers scattered throughout the landscape. The pale rounded green leaves look like tiny versions of the parent plant. The early, almost inconspicuous flowers born before the leaves emerge are visited by many species of bees. If the tree has eggs of the cabbage looper (the early white butterfly flitting about the garden), which produce tiny inchworm caterpillars, you may see delighted flocks of tiny bushtits swarming in for the buffet. These lovely birds feast on the caterpillars before much leaf damage occurs, making your habitat garden functional and educational.

 

Shrubs:

Three Leaf Sumac with fall color. (Photo by Wes Brittenham)

Three Leaf Sumac (Rhus trilobata)

This native shrub is a wonderful habitat plant. The early, almost inconspicuous greenish yellow flowers come early, giving bees a good source of nectar and pollen. Later, small, berry-like fuzzy fruits ripen, much to the pleasure of the spotted towhee, who will dance and stomp under this shrub, feasting on the fallen fruit. The fruit has a lemony flavor and can be used to make a flavored drink or a great seasoning for grilled trout. Widely branching, this very low water use shrub can grow from 3 to 10 feet tall and wide but can be pruned to keep it on the smaller side. The autumn color ranges from yellow to orange to red and is a great addition to any landscape. The dense branching provides cover from raptors and roadrunners hunting for small birds. The fallen or bird-deposited seeds germinate easily, the three-lobed leaf is easily recognizable, and the seedlings transplant well.

 

 

Golden Currant blooms (Photo by Wes Brittenham)

Golden Currant (Ribes aureaum)

Golden currant is named for the beautiful golden flowers that bear a slightly spicy clove like fragrance and are visited by many pollinators. The delicious fruits ripen to a shiny blackish purple and are a favorite of birds and humans fresh off the plant or made into jam, jelly or syrup. This is a wonderful native shrub. Found in riparian areas, it needs moderate water to thrive and full sun to part shade. The prodigious berries produce many seedlings to transplant around the garden. It can be pruned to create a fuller shape and usually grows 3 to 5 feet tall and wide.

 

Grasses:

 

Many of our native grasses are prolific seeders, producing volunteers that transplant easily.

 

Little Bluestem grass (Photo by Wes Brittenham)

Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium).

This is an upright clump-forming grass that ranges from shades of green to blue-gray during the growing season and beautiful reds and russet colors in fall. A warm season, drought tolerant grass, it is at home in masses, in a meadow or as an individual accent, punctuating the landscape with its strong, vertical form. It produces fluffy, silvery seed heads in the late summer to early fall. These seeds are fabulous light catchers, and this robust grass is spectacular when the seeds are backlit by the rising or setting sun. It is a host plant for native skipper butterflies, and songbirds enjoy the seeds. Best in full sun.

 

Blue Grama grass (Photo by Wes Brittenham)

Blue Grama (Bouteloua gracilis)

This lovely, clump-forming, self-seeding, drought tolerant native grass is well known for its signature curling seed head that begins with an eyebrow shape and curls to a circle as it dries. This grass is often used as a native lawn mixed with buffalo grass (Buchloe dactyloides) and mowed for a turflike appearance, but the real benefit is to let this grass grow naturally, its deep roots penetrating the soil while the top of the grass goes to beautiful seed and provides habitat for native bees and butterflies. You will notice pollinator activity during the flowering season for this grass. Great in a meadow, as a specimen in a rock garden or tucked among wildflowers.

 

 

Indian Ricegrass (photo by Gary Monroe)

Indian Ricegrass (Achnatherum hymenoides)

This striking native loves hot, dry, sandy soil found in west side neighborhoods. It has tiny, gluten free seeds that were a staple food for Indigenous peoples in the Southwest. The thin, wiry leaves grow 1 to 2 feet tall. They are sage green and are topped by ivory colored seed heads that appear in early summer. Another clump-forming grass, it is grown for its durability and lovely seedheads that are beautiful in dried arrangements. A natural food source for wildlife, as well as attracting birds and butterflies, it is the larval host of skipper butterflies.

 

Flowers:

 

So many of our wildflowers produce seeds that volunteer easily in the right location. For ease of growth and transplanting, we will look at a few species that have many benefits to offer.

 

 

Purple Coneflower (Photo by Wes Brittenham)

Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea).

This perennial delight grows in full sun to part shade and looks its best with moderate water. Beloved by bees and butterflies, the purple/pink petals and dark center cone are a striking form in any landscape or garden. Leave the seed heads through the winter and not only will seed eating birds have a source of nutrition, but you will be rewarded with volunteer seedlings that you can easily transplant in your garden. The small new plants look just like tiny versions of the mature ones.

 

 

Mexican Hat Flower (Photo by Wes Brittenham)

Prairie Coneflower/ Mexican Hat (Ratibida columnifera)

This tough, drought tolerant native perennial is known for the distinctive tall center seed cone and drooping flower petals that give it the common name of Mexican hat as it resembles a sombrero. It re-seeds readily, thriving in full sun and well-drained soil. It attracts pollinators, with flowers that can be yellow, maroon or a combination of the two. It has a lengthy bloom time, and birds love the seeds. Growing to about a 1½ feet tall, it is at home in mixed meadows, flower beds and even container gardens.

 

 

 

Tickseed (Coreopsis)

This low maintenance wildflower comes in both perennial (Coreopsis) and annual (Plains coreopsis, C. tinctoria) forms. The perennial is a sturdy plant featuring bright yellow daisy-like flowers that bloom for a long time, attracting bees, butterflies and birds when it goes to seed. The tick-like shape of the seed gives it its common name. Plains coreopsis is airy and thinner than perennial coreopsis and has smaller flowers that are usually yellow around the margins, with red to burgundy in the center.

 

Large Flower Beardtongue (Photo by Wes Brittenham)

Large Flowered Beardtongue (Penstemon grandiflora)

A 2- to 4-foot-tall native perennial, this penstemon features large lavender to pink tubular flowers in late spring and early summer. It prefers well drained soil, even thrives in sandy soil, and attracts a variety of pollinators, including hummingbirds and the checkerspot butterfly. Wonderful in meadows and prairies, this striking native also looks great when planted in masses as it produces smaller clumps than other large penstemons such as desert beardtongue or Palmers penstemon. The large flowered penstemon re-seeds easily, but like most penstemons, needs to be seeded in the fall for natural cold stratification. The leaves are rounded and a rich blue-grey color.

 

 

Blue Flax Flower (Photo by Wes Brittenham)

Blue Flax (Linum lewisii)

This sky blue, delicate looking wildflower is actually quite tough. It blooms profusely on thin, airy stems in spring to mid-summer. The flowers open in the morning and close by the afternoon. It prefers poor, well-drained soil and is very drought tolerant once established. It is usually a short-lived perennial, with each plant lasting perhaps several years in the landscape, but it is a prolific producer of seeds and, if the conditions are conducive, it naturalizes in large, shimmering swaths, with the rounded petals giving a satin sheen effect. It is to be fond of sprouting in decomposed granite or crusher fine mulches.

 

Learn more here:

Recipe for a High Desert Meadow

Food Forests: A prehistoric agroecosystem for your backyard.

Ornamental Grasses: How and When to Use Them

 

Author: Wes Brittenham, artist, gardener and writer. Have a question about the article or anything else?  AskAnExpert@abcwua.org

Smart Irrigation Controllers

Smart Irrigation Controllers

Most Albuquerque homes have an irrigation box below ground in the yard that contains automatic valves, pressure reducers, and filters with backflow preventers next to the box.  The automatic valves are wired to an irrigation controller that’s often in the garage, laundry room or an outside wall.  Different variations of these controllers have been around since the 1960s and allow homeowners to adjust when and how long to water different zones.  However in the early 2000s the proliferation of wireless technology and the internet ushered in the ‘Smart’ controller.

Smart controllers use WiFi and connect wirelessly to the local weather station. They will not water on days when it’s too windy or it has already rained. Most will also determine what your landscape’s water needs are and create a schedule based on data added during setup plus the information it receives from local weather stations. They connect to your smartphone or tablet so you have easy control over your system no matter where you are. Irrigation Designer Richard Perce says, “A smart controller adjusts your watering based on the local weather conditions which saves you money and water. But what I love the most is that you can turn your system on and off from the phone as you walk the line to find leaks. No more needing to run back and forth to the garage."

Smart Controllers allow you to turn your system on and off without running back to the irrigation controller in the garage.

What is a smart irrigation controller?

  • Smart controllers use current and/or historic weather data to create a custom irrigation schedule.
  • Our study shows residents with traditional landscaping saved about $150 per year, or about 20% in landscape irrigation costs by installing a smart irrigation controller.
  • Popular models cost around $150, and with a 25% rebate on qualifying models, your investment pays for itself in less than a year-thanks to water savings alone!
  • Nearly all smart controllers use an intuitive phone app, making it easier for you to set up and to check for issues - no back & forth to your garage!

The Water Authority’s offers a smart controller rebate. The rebate is a 25% rebate, up to $100.00 and includes the purchase and professional installation of a smart controller. Installing a Smart controller provides the following benefits:

  • A healthy, beautiful landscape: Smart controllers help landscapes flourish and remain healthy by providing the right amount of water for each plant zone. Underwatered or overwatered landscapes can be unhealthy, unattractive and wasteful.
  • Savings of both water and money: These controllers help eliminate overwatering, so they may lower water-use expenses and conserve water particularly for high water users.
  • Convenience: Properly programmed smart controllers save end-users the time required to continuously monitor and adjust irrigation schedules in response to changing weather and seasons (If you’re installing your new smart controller in an outbuilding or detached garage you may need to verify that your wi-fi signals are strong enough to reach the smart controller.)

 

BESTSELLING SMART IRRIGATION CONTROLLERS, ABQ METRO AREA (2025)

   

Rachio 3 Smart Sprinkler Controller

Features: 8 and 16 zones options, inexpensive, connects to local weather stations, works with all modems, easy to use, robust water schedules based on plant type, soil type, sun exposure; and rebates are available. This controller must be controlled by an smartphone since it does not come with a screen on the controller itself. Costs around $200-$250) Integrates with Amazon Alexa and other smart home devices. Supports dual-band Wi-Fi (2.4 GHz & 5 GHz)

Orbit B-hyve Smart Indoor/Outdoor Irrigation controller Models 57995 or 57950

Features: 6 and 12 zone options, inexpensive, connects to local weather stations, easily controlled via your smartphone, can be mounted indoors or outdoors, works with all internet modems (2.4gh and 5gh), long-range Bluetooth radio, can adjust both at the controller and on your phone, easy to use, rebates available. Costs around ($125-$200) Integrates with Amazon Alexa. Model 57950 has a screen, dial and physical buttons you can use to adjust the settings (in addition to the smartphone app). Model 57995 does show the date time and weather you’ll need to use your smartphone to adjust the settings.    

Hunter X2 with wand:

Features: If you have an existing Hunter X2 controller you can add WAND. It is a simple plug-in Wi-Fi option for any X2 controller model for online irrigation management from anywhere with an internet connection. Costs about $100 for the wand on your existing controller (costs between $80-$150), connects to local weather stations, easily controlled via your smartphone, can be mounted indoors or outdoors, works with only (2.4gh) internet modem, can adjust both at the controller and on your phone, easy to use, rebates available. Compatable with amazon alexa, control4 and homeseer home automation technology.    

Hunter HPC400:

Features: 4 station base model but HPCs can go up to 23 zones, runs about $200, connects to local weather stations, easily controlled via your smartphone, can be mounted indoors or outdoors, works with only (2.4gh) internet modem, can adjust both at the controller and on your phone, easy to use, rebates available.

 

The Water Authority offers residential rebates of 25% up to $100, and commercial rebates of 25% up to $500, for Smart Controllers. The rebate can be used for both purchase of the controller and the cost of professional installation. Installation is quite easy and is a great weekend DIY project with a high return of investment. Before purchasing your new controller, make sure to visit the list of qualified WaterSense controllers located in the rebate section.

 

 

Learn more here:

WaterSense Smart Irrigation Controllers

Yes, you can afford an irrigation system

Irrigation Maintenance Checklist for the Greater Albuquerque Area

 

Don't forget to report any water waste you see. 

Author: Have a question about the article or anything else? AskAnExpert@abcwua.org

Have a question about the article or anything else? AskAnExpert@abcwua.org

Irrigation 101 Tutorials

Irrigation 101 Tutorials

Water Meter Information

How can I find my water meter?

Irrigation Valve Information

Do I have an irrigation valve on my property? 

Install Drip Line from Irrigation Valve

Learn how to install drip irrigation to your irrigation valves. 

How to Install Water to a Tree

How to install drip irrigation to a tree?

Irrigation to a Plant

How to install drip irrigation to a plant?

Regenerative Vegetable Gardening in the Southwest

Regenerative Vegetable Gardening in the Southwest

Growing vegetables successfully in the hot, arid climate of New Mexico can be tough. My partner and I have extensive farming experience and education in permaculture from the mid-west and we found that it took us several seasons of observations, learning and adjustment before we could have a thriving food garden in Albuquerque.

Success came when we stopped fighting the environmental conditions and started working with them. Instead of forcing plants to survive in habitat they weren’t adapted to, we began focusing on supporting natural systems that already exist in the Southwest. Observing the flow of energy across the land — the movement of sun, wind, water and heat — taught us a great deal. We started paying attention to where water naturally collected, where afternoon shade formed, how soil stayed cooler under plant cover, and how native plants thrived with little care.

It is important to begin not by digging in (literally or metaphorically) but by observing what is already happening in the area where you want your garden. Some questions to ask yourself are Where do I get sun? How does water flow in the garden? How can I get the best energy storage in my garden? How is my soil? What plants do I want to grow? What other things might affect them (animals, wind, etc.)?

SUN: Look out for the sun!

The Southwestern sun is not only harsh but ever present in the landscape. Always observe how sunlight enters your garden, areas that have full sun, partial shade or full shade. This will be very helpful in designing where to grow specific plants or vegetables. Have a dedicated notebook for this and make your observations by seeing where other plants are already growing. Ask your neighbors what works for them!

Observing sun patterns and learning from native plants — many of which grow beneath partial shade or alongside rocks and shrubs — can help guide crop placement and shading strategies. While most vegetable crops require six to eight hours of sunlight, prolonged afternoon sun in the Southwest can be damaging. Timing is critical. Heat- and drought-adapted crops benefit from being planted early enough to establish deep root systems before peak summer temperatures or timed to take advantage of late-summer monsoon moisture.

Reduce heat stress with shade.

If your observation diary is telling you that you have almost full sun in most of the garden, then it may be time to think about how you can use simple solutions to add shade.

  1. A shade cloth rated between 30% and 50% lowers temperatures while still allowing sufficient light for photosynthesis. When installed over beds during the hottest months, shade cloth helps prevent sun scalding, reduces moisture loss and minimizes flower and fruit drop.
  2. Create shade with native plants like ocotillo, mesquite and rabbitbrush. Living fences can also be used to create beneficial microclimates by providing afternoon shade, reducing drying winds and moderating temperature extremes.
Creating shade for tomato plants.

SOIL: Essentially, all life depends upon the soil. It is the home for your seeds.

Healthy soil is the foundation of any successful vegetable garden. In the Southwest soil is usually low in organic matter and exposed to intense heat along with not having any cover during the harsh summer months. Living soils — those rich in organic matter and biological activity — retain moisture more effectively, cycle nutrients efficiently and buffer plants against temperature extremes.

To get living soil, start by saving your food scraps from the kitchen! They have nutrients that your soil needs. Building organic matter through compost (made from your kitchen scraps), mulch (from dried fallen leaves, straw, etc.) and continuous root growth (from growing cover crops like winter wheat, rye or barley) supports fungi, bacteria and other organisms in your soil that make nutrients available to plants.

Many native Southwestern plants thrive in undisturbed soils, offering a useful model for garden management. Soil, when protected and undisturbed, can be naturally rich in nutrients, living organisms and living roots. This creates soil that stores water longer, resists erosion and supports plants through heat and drought. Tilling or digging deep can expose these living organisms to the harsh sun, killing all the healthy parts of the soil. Reducing tillage helps preserve soil structure, fungal networks and pore spaces, allowing water to infiltrate deeply rather than evaporating or running off. Most vegetables prefer soil that drains well while still retaining moisture. Improving soil aggregation through organic matter allows soil to hold water like a sponge while maintaining adequate airflow to plant roots.

How to keep your soil full of nutrients and moisture.

  1. Heavy mulching: In urban areas, we have the bad habit of raking all our leaves into plastic bags, but that is quite counterproductive. These leaves actually serve a very important function: They provide natural mulch and keep the soil from getting too hot or losing too much moisture. They also provide homes to bees and other insects that burrow in them for the winter. Heavy mulching is central to water conservation, weed suppression and living-soil management. A thick mulch layer — typically 3-4 inches — keeps soil covered, reduces evaporation and moderates soil temperatures. Use organic mulches such as straw, shredded leaves, wood chips, compost and grass clippings. Mulch can be easily attainable for free. Grab the neighbors’ bags of fall leaves, ask local tree pruning companies for their woodchips, or use your backyard compost. Other options are corn and rice husks and straw waste from mushroom growers.
  2. High-density plantings: Planting really close together protects soil by shading the surface and reducing moisture loss. As plants transpire, they release moisture into the surrounding air, creating a cooler, more humid microclimate near the soil surface that benefits both crops and soil life.
  3. Continuous soil cover: Don’t leave your soil bare; after a harvest, plant a cover crop. It could be something that helps give different nutrients to the soil in winter such as winter wheat or barley or let the skeletons of the previous plants stay. Try the chop and drop method which uses the unused part of the plant harvest as cover during non-planting months.

Ultimately, it is important to remember that feeding the soil food web with a variety of materials/food and rotating what you grow in that soil is important. When they break down, they improve soil structure and fertility over time.

Harvesting carrots from nutrient rich soil.

WATER: Oh Water! What would we do without you?

Water is one of the most important elements and energy systems that you need to plan for in your garden. Water might feel like a renewable, ever-present resource, but we know it is limited in the Southwest. Efficient irrigation is essential for vegetable production in water-limited environments.

Three Types of Watering Methods

  1. Drip irrigation systems are widely recommended because they deliver water directly to the root zone, minimizing evaporation and runoff. ¼-inch in-line drip tubing is particularly well suited for vegetable beds. These lines feature evenly spaced 6” or 12” emitters that provide consistent moisture along plant rows. When installed beneath mulch, they offer precise water delivery while keeping foliage dry, reducing the risk of fungal disease.
  2. Olla means “pot” in Spanish, but the concept of using ollas as an irrigation system goes back thousands of years in many cultures. An olla watering system is basically any type of unglazed clay pot that is buried beneath the soil with only a small amount sticking up above the surface and filled with water. You can tell that a pot is unglazed because it will be that classic terracotta red color with no shiny finish or paint. The water then leeches out of tiny holes or pores in the clay and is pulled through the soil to the roots of your thirsty plants using a process called soil moisture tension. This functions much the same way as osmosis in that the water is trying to equalize to a certain level of moisture within the soil. This means your soil will never become overwatered either — if the soil is moist, the water stays in the pot until it is needed.
  3. Other irrigation options include soaker hoses, overhead sprinklers and hand watering. Soaker hoses are affordable but clog, degrade in the sun and use more water, while sprinklers tend to waste water and increase disease pressure by wetting leaves. Hand watering is flexible but time-consuming and often inconsistent. For most gardens, a hose attached irrigation system combining a 3/4-inch main line with ¼-inch drip tubing offers the best balance of efficiency and control.  Learn how to make one here.
Hand watering a winter vegetable garden.

BIODIVERSITY: Beneficial insects and ecological balance

A healthy vegetable garden is supported not only by sun, soil and water, but by insects that help regulate pest populations naturally. When gardens provide habitat for beneficial insects — such as lady bugs, spiders, green lacewings, parasitic wasps, native bees and predatory beetles — many common garden pests never reach damaging levels. And larger species like lizards and birds can minimize pests such as grasshoppers.

Diverse plantings of varying flowering herbs, native plants, mulch and undisturbed soil create food and shelter for these beneficial species. In a balanced ecosystem, predators and parasitoids feed on aphids, caterpillars, mites and other pests, preventing outbreaks before they occur. Rather than eliminating insects entirely, successful gardens support a web of life where no single species dominates.

Avoid broad-spectrum chemical pesticides. These products often kill beneficial insects before controlling pests and will harm your health, the soil's health and anything that feeds from your garden. When the right insects are present and the ecosystem is healthy, troublesome pests are rarely a serious problem and intervention is often unnecessary.

Pollination in action.

RESILIENT CROPS: Some crops and seed to consider

Heirloom and regionally adapted crops are especially well suited to the Southwest’s heat and low-water conditions. Chiles such as Chimayo, Española Improved, and New Mexico No. 9 tolerate high temperatures and are ideal for roasting or drying. Beans including tepary, Zuni gold and Anasazi are extremely drought-tolerant and improve soil fertility through nitrogen fixation.

Squash and pumpkins, including calabacita and Navajo pumpkin, require minimal care once established and naturally shade the soil, helping conserve moisture. Onions such as New Mexico 6-4 handle heat well and are a flavorful staple in Southwestern kitchens. Hopi red, golden and yellow amaranth is an ancient grain that is nutrient dense, and you can eat its leaves and seeds that are high in calcium and iron. These plants require less water and fertilizer than modern hybrids and form the backbone of resilient, climate-adapted gardens.

Buy non-GMO seed that supports organic farmers. Then plan to save your own seeds and grow your collection. There is a beautiful sense of accomplishment that comes not only from harvesting what you grew from seed, but also saving your best harvest’s seed so those plants can grow next year and the year after. Seeds pass on what they learned about their surroundings to the next generation, so if you save your seed, your plants will be stronger, happier and more adapted.

By observing local environmental patterns, managing the sun, building healthy soil, conserving water, fostering biodiversity and choosing resilient crops, you can grow a thriving vegetable garden even in the tough conditions of the Southwest.

Prepping garlic for planting.

Healthy garden bed with straw mulch.

Water-Wise Vegetable Gardening Webinar

With our hot summers and low precipitation, growing vegetables in NM can be challenging. This talk will provide strategies and recommendations for growers to cultivate a thriving vegetable harvest in the region. Discussion will include irrigation and infrastructure suggestions, as well as selection of vegetable varieties that are well-adapted to the area.


Instructor: Stephanie Walker, PhD. Professor and Vegetable Specialist, New Mexico
State University, Extension Plant Sciences Department.

Learn more here:

Vegetable and Herb Gardening in Small Spaces

Are you growing fruits or vegetables? Have you been wondering how much water to provide them to get a significant yield?

Vegetable Gardening in the Southwest

Easy Edible Plants for First-Time Growers

Authors: Sachika Goel and Cody Louscher, Water Conservation Specialist with the Water Authority. Have a question about the article or anything else? AskAnExpert@abcwua.org
Oaks and Mesquites: Varying the Tree Palette in Your Garden

Oaks and Mesquites: Varying the Tree Palette in Your Garden

Trees play a vital role in the plant palette for Albuquerque gardens. They provide cooling shade, screening, and habitat for birds, pollinators and other wildlife. Trees take more time to establish than shrubs or smaller plants. They live longer but are more expensive than other plants, so it is vital to select a tree that will thrive and provide the most benefit over its lifespan.

Often people select trees based on what they see in their neighborhood or what is most readily available at the nurseries. Unfortunately, when too many of one species are planted, the possibility of pest issues rises greatly, and entire swaths of trees can die off at the same time. (For example, Dutch elm disease and emerald ash borers have killed millions of trees in other areas of the U.S.) Planting a diverse selection of trees minimizes the possibility of mass species extinction. Trees are generally resilient, and varying the species planted protects against a variety of harmful conditions.

Oaks

Oak trees (Quercus) tend to be very long-lived and tough trees, well adapted to the climate conditions in Albuquerque. There are about 30 species of oaks native to New Mexico. They vary greatly in size, form, foliage and growth rate. Some are deciduous while others are evergreen. There is an oak suitable for almost any place in your landscape.

Chinkapin (aka Chinquapin) oak — Quercus muehlenbergii — is a faster growing, larger oak for our area. They can grow from 25’ to 50’ tall . It produces large acorns which wildlife relish and were an important food source for Native Americans. They are an excellent shade tree with subtle color in the fall. This tree is both very heat and cold tolerant and prefers well-drained soil. Water to 24" depth twice a month once established at around three years. Tree establishment rule of thumb is the first year the tree sleeps, second year the tree creeps and the third year it is established and ready to leap.

Chinkapin Oak

Texas red oakQuercus texana — is another large deciduous shade tree, growing to about 35’ in Albuquerque. This beauty has long-lasting, spectacular red to maroon fall foliage that will become a focal point in your garden. This tree prefers to be planted in cooler areas surrounded by wood chip mulch.

Texas Red Oak

Gambel oakQuercus gambelii — is an adaptable, native deciduous tree whose shape can vary from a large shrubby cluster to a single-trunk tree. It grows 10’ to 30’ tall in groups and is found at both higher and lower elevations of our local mountains. It provides food and shelter to many wildlife species. Depending on its form and how it’s pruned, Gambel oak can be used as a informal hedge or as an individual shade tree. The red to maroon fall foliage gradually turns brown and persists well into winter, which can provide extended screening.


Quercus gambelii (Photo by @BrandtMagic)

Another native, shrub live oak Quercus turbinella — has small, holly-like silvery green leaves. This slow grower should be considered more of a shrub and is found locally in the foothills. It is very long-lived (hundreds of years) and grows into a thick trunked form when fully mature. 

Escarpment live oak Quercus fusiformus — is a regionally native tree that can grow 25’ to 30’ tall and 25’ wide in Albuquerque. Its oblong evergreen leaves provide both shade and year-round screening with the benefit of minimal fall cleanup. Make sure to plant the escarpment and the shrub live oak from late spring to the end of summer as cold season planting tends to stunt their establishment and growth.

Escarpment Live Oak

Mesquites

Mesquites are native trees well adapted to extreme heat and drought conditions. Some are not very cold hardy so are best planted in warm or protected microclimates (courtyards or against south or west facing walls). Their spring flowers provide a great resource for pollinators, and their beans can be ground into a sweet flour for baking. 

Honey mesquiteProsopis glandulosa — is a great, tough, small to medium sized tree that can eventually be completely removed from irrigation. 'Maverick' mesquite is a thornless cultivar that is more user friendly in an urban landscape but is not as cold hardy. 'Maverick' can accommodate heavily trafficked courtyards and along pathways. Unlike the regular honey mesquite the 'Maverick' cultivar may need continued watering over its lifetime. Both these trees do better in warmer areas south of Albuquerque.

Honey Mesquite

Screwbean mesquiteProsopis pubescens — is a very drought tolerant multi-trunk tree. It grows up to 20’ tall. As it can handle periods of extra water (flooding), it works well in a rainwater harvesting basin. Locally you will find it growing in the bosque near Socorro. Its unique seed pods look like wonderful mini sculptures. This tree may take some work to find in nurseries, but it is well worth the search. 

Screwbean Mesquite Pods

Fundamentally, when selecting trees for your landscape, it’s crucial to find a tree that will thrive in the space and micro-climate where you want to plant it. Oaks and mesquites can provide a variety of options in an Albuquerque garden.

Learn more here:

Let’s Plant Albuquerque

The Benefit of Trees

Tips for Keeping Mature Trees Healthy

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Author: Hunter Ten Broeck, landscape contractor and owner of WaterWise Landscapes Inc. in Albuquerque. Have a question about the article or anything else? AskAnExpert@abcwua.org