Common Mistakes for Drip Irrigation Installations

Common Mistakes for Drip Irrigation Installations

by | Oct 7, 2026 | Do It Yourself (DIY), Home Page, Watering and Irrigation, Watering Recommendations

In our hot, arid climate, drip irrigation efficiently waters trees, shrubs and other landscape plants by delivering the right amount directly to roots, promoting healthier plants and reducing waste. The drip systems greatest advantage is flexibility. It’s easy to install and modify a drip system as a landscape grows and changes. However, they can be incredibly wasteful if not installed and maintained correctly. Like many things, it’s easiest to learn from mistakes. We compiled the most common drip irrigation mistakes we see in our Albuquerque landscapes.

Mistake 1: Not installing a drip filter/pressure regulator combination.

Average water pressure in Albuquerque ranges from 45-80 PSI, but drip irrigation systems have been designed to operate best at 25 PSI. All drip systems should have a pressure regulator to reduce the pressure and a filter to screen dirt and debris from water. If you notice drip emitters are popping off or leaking, then the water pressure is too high. Install a drip filter/pressure regulator combination downstream of the valve, immediately after the backflow preventer or vacuum breaker. If your system has a pressure reducer but emitters keep popping out of the ¼-inch distribution tubing then the end of the tubing may have become stretched. If so, cut off a small section of the tubing and reinstall the emitter into the fresh tubing to create a more secure fit.

 

 

Mistake 2: Relying on the existing sprinkler heads and sprinkler lines for drip irrigation.

Don’t rely on the old piping when converting sprinklers to drip. Abandon all old PVC and galvanized lateral lines and install sprinkler irrigation directly downstream of the valve assembly and backflow preventer. You may have seen the spray-to-drip retrofit kits locally available and wonder if this is a good approach. We don’t recommend this approach because studies show that nearly half of the water saved from converting a lawn to a xeriscape comes from abandoning leaky underground piping and fittings. Install your drip directly downstream of the valve assembly. Click here to learn how..

Mistake 3: Not burying or covering drip irrigation tubing.

One of the best ways to extend the life of your drip system is to keep it out of direct sunlight and hidden from rodents. Although drip tubing is UV-resistant, prolonged exposure to the sun gradually breaks down the plastic, making it brittle causing it to weaken and leak over time. To protect from the elements, ½” and ¾” distribution tubing should be installed with landscape staples and buried in a 4-6” depth trench and cover with 3-4″ of mulch.

Polyline drip tubing buried underground.

Mistake 4: Going over instead of under retaining wall.

Avoid running drip tubing over the top of retaining walls (or landscape edging) whenever possible. A better option is to install a PVC sleeve beneath the wall before construction. Be sure to cover both ends of the sleeve with tape to prevent soil and debris from entering during construction. When you’re ready to install the irrigation system, simply feed the drip tubing through the sleeve. The sleeve protects the tubing from damage while also providing a convenient pathway for future repairs, replacements or system modifications.

Irrigation PVC sleeve under concrete.

Mistake 5: Runs of ¼-inch distribution line (often called spaghetti tubing) that are too long.

In a perfect world, these smaller tubing lengths wouldn’t exceed 2 or 3 feet between the larger lateral tubing (½-inch or ¾-inch size) and the base of the plant. Keeping ¼-inch distribution tubing short, pinned down with landscape staples, and covered effectively with mulch helps prevent pressure loss from long runs plus reduces the opportunity for physical damage from UV sunlight, rodents or dogs.

Mistake 6: Having unnecessary fittings.

Every fitting creates an opportunity for leaks, compared to a continuous run of tubing. Whenever possible, use a single uninterrupted length of tubing. For example, if the tubing can be gently bent around a corner without kinking, there is no need to install a 90-degree elbow fitting,

Lots of dripline connectors and long runs of ¼” distribution tubing – likely leading to damage and leaks.

Mistake 7: Not using enough landscape pins or staples.

Properly securing irrigation tubing with staples keeps it in place. Temperature fluctuations can cause the lines to expand and contract, which, over time, can allow the tubing to migrate to the surface, exposing it to sunlight and physical damage. Pin down the larger lateral supply line tubing and use at least one landscape pin on each ¼-inch tubing line to prevent the emitter from moving away from the plant’s root zone.

Mistake 8: Insufficient emitters for existing trees and plants.

This problem is most common when a lawn is converted to a xeriscape landscape with drip irrigation. Existing trees may have relied on sprinkler irrigation for many years, allowing their roots to spread throughout the lawn and often well beyond the edge of the canopy. When sprinklers are removed, homeowners or contractors sometimes replace the irrigation with just two or three emitters near the base of a mature tree. This does not provide enough water, and the water is not being applied where the majority of the feeder roots are located. This issue also occurs in newly installed landscapes when plants receive too few emitters; if the emitters are not repositioned, the problem continues as the plants mature. For newly installed landscapes use our Irrigation Guide page 28 to learn how many emitters should be installed per plant.

Newly installed tree watering system around a newly planted tree

Tree watering system around existing tree to accommodate watering of the root zone around the large existing tree.

Mistake 9: Not separating trees and perennials into different irrigation zones.

We often find that customers have their low water use plants and medium water use trees on a single drip irrigation zone. One of the best irrigation practices – called ‘hydrozoning’ is to place trees and desert-friendly plants on separate watering zones. This allows each plant grouped by water need type to receive water according to its specific needs. Established trees typically benefit from deep, infrequent watering once or twice per month, while smaller plants generally require more frequent watering, often two to three times per week during the growing season. Separating these plants into different zones improves water efficiency, promotes healthier root systems and helps prevent both overwatering and underwatering. Occasionally, we come across a single irrigation zone or valve that contains both sprinklers for grass and drip irrigation for plants — this should always be avoided because it results in overwatered plants or underwatered grass.

Mistake 10: Not keeping emitters visible.

When walking through your newly installed landscape, you should be able to see the drip emitters positioned 2 to 3 inches above the mulch or gravel. (Emitters should also be placed on the uphill side of the plant.) Keeping emitters visible during the establishment period makes it much easier to verify that they are working properly and delivering water where it is needed. While they may not be the most attractive feature at first, the emitters will become less noticeable as plants grow and fill in. In a mature landscape, however, they can become hidden by plant growth and groundcover. In this case, the overall appearance and health of the plants provides clues if an irrigation problem exists. When you do need to locate an emitter, try listening when the drip zone first turns on. The sound of water flowing through the emitter can often help you pinpoint its location.

Emitter next to shrub.

Mistake 11: Using specialty parts that aren’t readily available at most irrigation or hardware stores.

When designing and installing your drip irrigation system, it’s best to use common, readily available parts. Choosing specialized components that are difficult to find or incompatible with standard fittings can lead to frustration, delays in repairs and resulting plant stress when repairs or replacements are needed in the future. We recommend purchasing supplies from irrigation specialty stores, as they offer higher-quality products, stock the same parts from the same manufacturers, and have experts available that can answer your questions. Be selective in the parts you purchase and keep a stash of extra parts in your toolbox so you can make a quick repair and avoid wasted water or stressed plants.

 

Learn More Here:

Irrigation Efficiency Guide

Irrigation 101 Video Tutorials

Take the Guesswork Out of Programming an Irrigation Controller

Yes You Can Afford and Irrigation System

Tree Watering System

 

 

Author: Carl Christensen, Xeriscape Inspector. Have a question about the article or anything else? [email protected]

The Dos and Don’ts of Autumn Landscape Maintenance

The Dos and Don’ts of Autumn Landscape Maintenance

by | Oct 5, 2026 | Do It Yourself (DIY), Home Page, Watering and Irrigation

Autumn brings many changes to our landscapes and gardens. Certainly, we are enjoying the cooler temperatures and changing light. It is more inviting to spend time outside, and we may find ourselves more inclined to do some of that yardwork that was unbearable in the heat of the summer.

But what is necessary work in the fall garden? Some of us have a tidy streak and find ourselves compelled to rake up the leaves as soon as they begin to fall or cut back the flowers and grasses that mere weeks ago swayed in the breeze and lured in the pollinators. Hold your horses. Your sense of neatness, or perhaps the need to control or tame the wildness going dormant before you, may not be what is best for the garden.

You may have heard the phrase “Leave the leaves.” Increasingly, we are understanding the benefits of letting the fallen autumn leaves lie and, along with that, holding back on some of the pruning, deadheading and raking that may have been your fall garden ritual. There are good reasons to let your landscape and garden remain a bit messy, and science can help you understand why.

Leaves store nutrients for the plant they are attached to throughout the growing season, releasing them into the vascular system as the plant requires. When autumn arrives and leaves fall to the ground, these stored nutrients are slowly released back into the soil, even as the decaying foliage enriches the ground beneath it, adding to the organic profile of the earth and creating systems for all the beneficial microorganisms to flourish. Healthy bacteria, fungi and mycorrhizae thrive in the soil beneath a mulch of decaying organic matter, and the blanketed soil also holds moisture, insulates the soil and reduces the need for supplemental irrigation.

There are also many wildlife benefits to leaving a bit of messiness in the garden over the winter, especially for creatures that may be searching for natural food or nice hiding places to overwinter in, protected from the elements. In addition, there are ornamental benefits. For example, a native grass meadow can take on subtle color shifts, from greys to golds to russet tones, especially if graced with winter precipitation.

If we are fortunate enough to have precipitation in any form, the organic material left in the garden can act as a sort of sponge, soaking up moisture and slowly releasing it into the soil.

For a maintained appearance, rake the leaves and pine needles from patios and walkways if you wish, but let them accumulate and remain as free mulch in your flower beds, under trees and shrubs, on top of organic mulch such as bark or shredded wood, and on the soil surface between grasses in your meadows. You can add any excess to your compost pile if you have it. The exception would be if you had an issue with a fungus, such as powdery mildew. You should dispose of those leaves. If you have gravel or crusher fine mulch, you may want to rake the debris from those surfaces and recycle in appropriate areas of the garden or landscape.

If you have native and ornamental grasses, wait until spring to cut them back. Aesthetically, our plants go through a fall transition fading from red into russet browns and greys. This change signals the changing of the seasons, helping us align with Mother Nature. Erect stems and plump leaves will fade and crumble, setting up a beautiful contrast to the bright green growth of early spring and the tidy appearance after your spring clean-up and cut-back. The faded growth adds visual winter interest to the landscape, seeds for birds and protection for overwintering insects (even butterflies) as well as helping to hold soil moisture. The same goes for perennial flowers, like coneflower, penstemon, gayfeather and bee balm. These plants provide natural winter sustenance for birds and other wildlife and protect the sensitive crown of the plant from potential damage from freezing winter temperatures.

Ornamental Grasses in Fall, Photo by Wes Brittenham

 

As for fall pruning of shrubs, there are several reasons to hold off on using your hedge trimmers and hand pruners there, too. One reason is that the spent flowers and seed heads on some shrubs such as blue mist spirea or chamisa also provide visual winter interest and food for birds. Some common landscape plants — like autumn sage, Texas sage and lavender as well as herbs like garden sage, rosemary, thyme and oregano — benefit from being left alone in the fall. The older outside growth acts as insulation to the more tender interior of the plant, protecting it from freezing temperatures. If you cut these back in the fall, you may find that winter damage has killed back much of the plant come spring.

There is something peaceful and restorative when looking at a winter landscape. You feel the earth resting after a season of heat and growth, the stored energy in slumber and silence, waiting for the shift in seasons to spring forth in renewal.

Rest with your garden. Let the quiet, meditative nature of the dormant period reset your own seasonal clock. Enjoy the cooler autumn days and the changing of the color, texture and mood of the landscape. Feel the gentle ebb of the need to do something and allow yourself to just sit with the slow season. You deserve a rest, too.

 

Photo by Wes Brittenham

 

Learn More Here:

Ornamental Grasses and How and When to Use Them

Plants for Fall Color

Great Natural Areas to Visit this Fall for Respite and Inspiration

 

 

Author: Wes Brittenham, artist, gardener and writer. Have a question about the article or anything else? [email protected]

 

 

Plants for Fall Color

Plants for Fall Color

by | Aug 31, 2026 | Fall, Planting, Xeriscape

Fall blooming plants and changing leaves can be just as exciting as the bright colors of spring and summer flowers. Fall is also an excellent time for planting: Temperatures begin dropping, making it easier for young plants to become established, and the cooler weather creates a more enjoyable time for gardeners to work outside.

 

Here are five great flowering options that offer a range of colors:

You don’t have to choose between blooms and red leaf color. Dwarf plumbago (Ceratostigma plumbaginoides) is a groundcover with bright blue summer and fall blossoms, spectacular red leaf color in late fall, interesting seedheads and excellent shade tolerance.

 

Many ornamental grasses have interesting seed heads in fall bringing soft colors and beautiful texture to autumn landscapes.

  • The many species of muhly grasses (Muhlenbergia spp.) are especially easy to grow and have lovely seed heads. You really can’t go wrong with a muhly grass: They are tough and add amazing texture and contrast to any landscape.
  • Pink muhly (M. capillaris) tolerates heat and drought and is covered in mounds of stunning delicate pink seed heads in fall.
  • Autumn glow muhly (M. lindheimeri) is a larger grass with spikes of tan flowers in fall.
  • Bull grass (M. emersleyi) and deer grass (M. rigens) are medium sized ornamental grasses with spikes of white or light tan flowers.
  • The blades of little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium), a locally native grass, turn a beautiful copper color in fall.

 

If you’re looking for classic autumn leaf color, several deciduous trees and shrubs offer reliably impressive fall color.

  • Many oak trees do well in Albuquerque, including bur oak (Quercus macrocarpa), Texas red oak (Quercus buckleyi) and Chisos red oak (Quercus gravesii). Oak trees also provide excellent habitat for birds and butterflies; in fact, the caterpillars of many butterflies rely on oak trees.
  • Red push pistache (Pistacia × ‘Red Push’) is a hybrid tree selected for its almost neon fall color. You can also plant standard Chinese pistache (Pistacia chinensis), which is a bit more cold hardy, though fall color can vary greatly from tree to tree. Visit a nursery in fall, when pistache leaves are turning color, to see the color of a particular tree before selecting one to bring home.
  • Three leaf sumac (Rhus trilobata) is a medium to large sized shrub. It is locally native, grows in all soil types and does well in sun or shade. In fall, its leaves turn beautiful shades of yellow, orange and red. Autumn amber sumac is a groundcover cultivar of three leaf sumac and rarely grows taller than six inches and spreads up to ten feet. Gro low sumac (Rhus aromatica ‘Gro Low’) is a Midwestern sumac that grows up to 3 feet tall and spreads up to 6 feet wide. Like three leaf sumac, its leaves turn fiery shades in fall.

 

And don’t forget an evergreen backdrop for all this fall color. The warm oranges and reds of sumacs, buckwheat, oaks and little bluestem are especially striking when paired with the silvery blue gray plants that do so well in Albuquerque, such as agave, artemisia, chamisa and Rocky Mountain juniper.

Selecting a mix of colorful blossoms, autumn leaf color, soft textures and contrasting blues and grays for your garden this fall will make your landscape a highlight of the season.

 

Learn More Here:

Ornamental Grasses and How and When to Use Them

New and Underutilized Plants for 2026

Climate Ready Landscapes!

Author: Tess Houle, ASLA Landscape Architect with Pland Collaborative. Photos by Wes Brittenham, and Tess Houle Have a question about the article or anything else? [email protected]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Choose Vines for Fast Shade, Living Screens and Pollinator Habitat.

Choose Vines for Fast Shade, Living Screens and Pollinator Habitat.

by | Aug 31, 2026 | Outdoor Living, Pollinators and Wildlife, Vines, Winter, Xeriscape

We recently spoke with Judith Phillips, a local garden writer and landscape designer, about why vines are so useful in Southwest landscapes and how homeowners can use them successfully.

Vines can feel intimidating because many grow quickly and can become large or unruly. But Phillips points out that they solve landscape challenges where other plant types may not work. Vines create fast shade, screen narrow spaces, add winter interest and provide food and habitat for pollinators.

Below are suggestions of vine species for each of these four landscape scenarios.

 

CREATE FAST SHADE

When you don’t have the time or space needed to grow shade trees, but you can’t live comfortably outdoors in the blistering sun, building an arbor and planting a vine to provide a cool leafy canopy may be the solution.

Phillips notes that vines can create shade faster than a tree. Once established, many vines, such as grapes, can have individual canes that grow as much as 10 feet a year, allowing them to quickly climb up and over a pergola or other structure. Because many vines are naturally riparian, an established large woody vine may use about as much water as a medium-sized tree. Their fast growth also means they require regular guidance and pruning, but the reward is a comfortable, inviting outdoor space.

Open lattice ramadas, arbors and pergolas all work well for vines. Wood is commonly used for structures because it is simple and easy to build with, but in Albuquerque’s climate, steel is often ideal because it is strong, long-lasting, low maintenance and resists UV damage.

Vines can be guided around structures, fences and trellises by gently weaving stems or attaching them with twist ties, string or twine through chain-link fencing or welded wire mesh, sometimes called “hog panel.” Remove ties once the vine has grown into place.

Lady Banks’ rose growing on pergola providing shade to seating area.

 

Some great species to create shade on an arbor are Lady Banks’ rose, wisteria and canyon grapevine.

Lady Banks’ rose (Rosa banksiae): Rarely do you find a plant that is fast growing, evergreen and long-lived. Lady Banks’ rose is all those things, and it produces a beautiful if brief show of flowers in spring. And it uses surprisingly little water and grows well in sun or shade. This plant becomes quite large and, unlike most roses, blooms on old wood. If it grows too large, guide it around the structure or prune away unwanted growth; it adapts well to heavy pruning. Lady Banks’ is thornless and has incredible show stopping spring blooms.

Lady Banks’ on metal trellis.

Lady Banks Rose blooming on chain link fence.

 

Wisteria (Wisteria sinensis): The pendulous, sweet-scented lavender flowers of this vine are some of the first to bloom in the spring. Bright green leaves follow shortly thereafter, filling the plant and creating lots of dappled shade below. Once the flowers fade, the leaves fill in to provide dense shade in the summer. Expect woody stems over time and train the vine strategically as it develops. Wisteria grows well in sun, shade and part shade.

Close up of Wisteria Trunk by Hunter Ten Broeck

Wisteria blooms hanging from a pergola.

Grapes, multiple varieties: New Mexico is one of the oldest grape growing regions in North America, with plants brought to the state by Spanish colonialists and planting records dating back to 1652. Grapes prefer consistent moisture during their first year of establishment and grow best in full sun. The vines are fast growing and long-lived. Beautiful bright leaves create dense shade, and the fruit is delicious Grapes are deciduous so be prepared for a sculptural woody vista throughout the winter months. Late winter, before the last frost, is the best time to train and prune them. Some varieties to try are Himrod, an early ripening seedless white table grape; Red Flame, a seedless red table grape; Canadice, a cold hardy seedless red table grape known for disease resistance; and the unique Flambeau, a seedless pink table grape with strawberry sweetness. Another the Canyon grape, has beautiful fall color and grapes are loved by wildlife.

Grape vine growing on trellis at a home in the North Valley of Albuquerque.

 

 

 

SCREEN NARROW SPACES

Narrow spaces, such as side yards, can be difficult to plant because shrubs may become too wide before they provide enough height to provide screening. Vines trained on a trellis against a wall can fill vertical space without overwhelming the walkway and adjacent space.

Sun exposure in these narrow spaces affects which vines will do the best, explains Phillips. The west and south facing sides of the property receive the hottest afternoon sun, while the north facing side is typically cooler because of the shade, and the east facing side receives morning light.

Lady Banks’ rose growing on metal trellis attached to block wall on side of the house.

 

For southern and western exposures, Phillips suggests using passionflower vine and silver lace vine.

Passionflower vine (Passiflora caerulea): Stunning dark blue and ivory flowers appear in the summer flocked with butterflies. This vine grows well in heat but will freeze to the ground in winter. It will regrow from root-sprouts in the spring and climb again using tendrils.

A single Bluecrown Passiflora flower, also known as Passilfora Caerulea, an evergreen tendril climbing vine.

 

Silver lace vine (Fallopia baldschuanica): This is one of the most xeric and heat tolerant of the vines as well as a good pollinator that can smell like lilacs when blooming. Because it can become a tangle of spaghetti-like twigs, Phillips recommends cutting it to the ground every few years so that it will return with great exuberance in the spring.

Silverlace vine in bloom.

 

 

For shadier locations, she recommends using Carolina jessamine and Algerian ivy.

Carolina Jessamine (Glesemium sempervirens): This vine performs best in shade. It is not particular about soil and produces beautiful yellow flowers in early spring while retaining winter color. Note that it is toxic to humans, pets and livestock if ingested, even in small amounts. Prune one fourth of the vine’s mass every three years to keep it from getting too woody and to encourage vigorous plant growth.

Carolina Jessamine

Carolina jessamine (from internet, not great)

 

Algerian ivy (Hedera canariensis): This ivy climbs walls with clasping roots and provides evergreen color. It does best on north or northeast facing walls. Its large, bright green leaves resemble English ivy. The needlepoint dwarf variety is a smaller option that also performs well.

Ivy climbing up the side of a home.

 

ADD WINTER INTERST

Many vines fade or freeze back in winter, but some continue to add structure, color or texture.  Phillips recommends Lady Banks’ rose and Algerian ivy for evergreen color along with wisteria for its sculptural woody branches.

Wisteria seed pods in winter.

 

Star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides): This vine has dark green foliage, fragrant spring flowers and smooth stems. When trained onto a trellis, it forms a dense cover. It grows well in partial shade, is a medium water user and is adapted to a wide range of soils. The sweet, pinwheel-shaped white flowers produce nectar for pollinators.

Star jasmine growing on a fence.

 

 

 

PROVIDE FOOD AND HABITAT FOR POLLINATORS

Several vines already mentioned ­ — including wisteria, star jasmine, Carolina jessamine, silver lace vine and passionflower — support pollinators.

Wisteria blossom.

 

 

Climbing milkweed (Funastrum cynanchoides): This New Mexico native is one of Phillips new favorites. It dies back completely in winter but grows vigorously in spring, forming tangled curtains across fences, boulders and shrubs. It prefers heavier soils such as clay rather than

Climbing Milkweed, Funastrum cynanchoides var. hartwegii

 

Silkvine (Periploca graeca): This deciduous vine can grow three feet or more in a year and sports glossy dark green leaves and dark maroon spring flowers. It’s fast growing and loves to climb up ramadas, wire fencing and trellises. On a pergola, it provides dense shade in the summer then loses its leaves in winter, letting the sun penetrate through the sculptural coiled stems. It tolerates both clay and sandy soil. Brought here by the earliest colonizers from the Valencia region of Spain, it’s found along the historic stagecoach routes of the Camino de Real.

Silkvine flower by Hunter Ten Broeck

 

Western virgin’s bower (Clematis ligusticifolia): Also known as old man’s beard, this vine is fast growing where water is available and does well on north and east sides. Native to New Mexico, it can be found climbing over small trees and shrubs in the Jemez Mountains. Butterflies adore the fragrant white blooms, and attractive seed heads — one of the best parts of this plant — provide winter interest.

Clematis flower by Hunter Ten Broeck

 

Locally familiar trumpet vine and honeysuckle are not included here because Phillips is using them less often in home landscapes. Orange trumpet vine can root aggressively and become difficult to manage. Instead, Phillips has been using crossvine, a related species that she finds easier to live with and more evergreen, making it more attractive through winter. Honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens), including the Major Wheeler variety, can be temperamental, especially when it experiences leaf loss during late, hot summer months. Even so, both trumpet vine and honeysuckle are established local favorites and can still find homes in the right locations.

Whether used for shade, screening, winter structure or pollinator support, vines can bring beauty and function to places where other plants may struggle. With the right species, sturdy support, thoughtful placement and regular training, they can become some of the most versatile and rewarding plants in a Southwestern garden.

 

 

 

Learn More Here:

Vines for New Mexico

How to Build a Trellis

Creating Living Shade with Vines

 

Interview with Judith Phillips, owner of Design Oasis and a landscape designer and garden writer with 30 years of experience designing arid-adapted and native gardens in the high desert. Have a question about the article or anything else? [email protected]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Walk the Line: A mid-summer check of your irrigation system

Walk the Line: A mid-summer check of your irrigation system

by | Jul 31, 2026 | Do It Yourself (DIY), Maintenance, Summer, Water Conservation, Watering and Irrigation, Xeriscape

Up to 50% of outdoor water use is wasted due to lack of service. In just 15 minutes, a broken sprinkler could waste about 225 gallons of water.  To put that in perspective, that’s more than the daily water needs for 3 Albuquerque homes.

If that broken sprinkler is set to run in the middle of the night, it could easily go a full week unnoticed, which would end up wasting 1575 gallons of water. That’s as much water as most Albuquerque residents use over an entire month during the winter. What if your leak goes unnoticed until you receive your next water bill? There goes 6300 gallons. If you’re like many of our customers and don’t pay much attention to your water bill due to auto payments, that broken sprinkler could run for an entire irrigation season unnoticed, wasting over 50,000 gallons of water. This one broken sprinkler can waste more water than what it takes to supply a home for a year. Consider the amount of water wasted citywide by that broken sprinkler along with all the other broken sprinklers, leaky pipes, and poorly programmed systems, and you can understand why it’s important for all of us to promptly address water waste issues in our landscapes.

Make the time to “walk the line”. While your system is running, walk the perimeter of your property and check your system. Do this a minimum of once a month for sprinkler systems. If you have a drip system, check it more often as they’re more susceptible to damage.  If your system is over 20 years keep an eye on it as components are going to fail more frequently on older systems.

When you walk the line, it’s important to use all your senses, not just your eyes.  Pay attention to the feel of the surface you’re walking on. If you feel a squishy spot below your feet, you probably have a subsurface leak.  Also, listen, your brain is remarkably good at picking out sounds that are out of place, and can lead you to a leak.

 

Monthly Walk the Line Checks:

Leaks:

Sprinkler System Leaks: Quickly catching leaks will save plants and money. A broken sprinkler head is easy to identify.  Less easy to see and often overlooked is a cracked pop-up spray nozzle (see photo). It’s important to know how your sprinklers look when they’re distributing water as intended, so if one starts spraying water differently from the rest, notice it and inspect it more.

Leaks from sprinkler head and cracked nozzle.

 

The good news is that replacing sprinkler heads and nozzles is easy. All you have to do is unscrew the old one to remove it and then screw in the new one. Just remember to replace them with the exact same brand part and model. Putting in the wrong part can result in distributing the wrong amount of water on your turf. This will cause brown spots either from your grass dying because it’s not getting enough water or from fungus because it’s getting too much. Unfortunately, most homeowners’ responses to brown spots is to apply more water. But remember, symptoms of over and under watering can look similar.

Make your life easy and keep the correct spare parts for your system on hand.  If you’re uncertain, consider taking what you have to your local irrigation supply store for help with finding the right match.

When you purchase your new sprinkler parts, ask about high efficiency nozzles and pressure regulating spray bodies to upgrade your system.  We offer Irrigation Efficiency Rebates for this equipment. However, do not mix and match traditional spray sprinklers with newer high efficiency options, they do not deliver water at the same rate. So, if you replace one sprinkler with an upgrade, you need to also upgrade at least the rest of the sprinklers in that zone and then make sure you adjust your sprinkler run time for the new rate at which water is applied with efficient nozzles.

Drip System Leaks:

If you have a drip system we recommend that you walk the line more often. Drip systems are easy to install and maintain, but they’re also easily damaged. One of the more common problems we see is cracked or punctured polyline tubing.

This is an inexpensive and easy fix. A small hole can be patched by inserting a “goof plug”. And a larger hole or crack can be repaired with a repair coupling, just make a clean cut and connect the two pieces with the correct size coupling. It’s a good idea to always keep goof plugs and the right sized couplings on hand if you have a drip system. A tackle box can be useful for all the parts. After the repair, run the system and observe the zone running to make sure the repair was successful and that you don't have other leaks.

 

Another common issue with drip systems is missing emitters. This is also an easy and inexpensive fix. You just need to pop on a new emitter with a replacement that delivers water at the same rate as the old one.

If you are frequently loosing emitters it's highly likely that the pressure in your drip zone needs to be reduced.  Each drip valve should have a pressure reducer installed to match the pressure the parts were designed for (15-30psi). If yours doesn’t, consider installing one ASAP. Hold on to your receipt so you can apply for our irrigation efficiency rebate for pressure reduction within 90 days of the purchase or service.

 

Valve Assembly Leaks:

The picture of the left shows a valve box filled with water due to valve assembly leaks and the picture on the right shows a backflow preventer leaking due to an old or broken washer.

When you’re walking the line turn on the system then start at the valve assembly. This is where the whole irrigation system begins. It includes a valve (which is usually inside a valve box under a green or brown plastic cover) and a backflow preventer. The valve opens to turn on the water supply to the irrigation system and you should not see water in the valve box. Leaks often start gradually and they may not be immediately obvious so it’s a good idea to open the lid and look for water in the valve box when you’re doing your monthly system inspection. The valve assembly needs to include a backflow preventor. The backflow preventer is what prevents contaminated water from your landscape from siphoning back into your home’s water supply.

Valve box and backflow preventers.

 

If you are uncertain of whether or not you have a backflow preventer or you can’t locate your valves, you can always reach out to us through our “Ask an Expert” email us at [email protected]

 

Other Water Leak Clues:

Even when your system isn’t running, there are clues you can look out for that can alert you to leaks and broken sprinklers. If you see ponds in your turf or in the street in front of your house, you might have leak.  Other clues to look out for are things like algae growing on the sidewalk, or popped off sprinkler heads lying in the grass.

Another great visible leak clue is sediment flow.  When water flows, it moves soil with it. So, if you see sediment around a sprinkler head like in the picture at right, or flowing across the sidewalk like in the top center, it’s a good sign that there is a leak below the surface.

 

Finally, one of the best clues you have is your water bill.  If you notice an unusual jump in your bill, it’s a good idea to check your irrigation system for leaks. There is also a free online water use tracking tool we offer called HomeConnect, which allows users to view nearly real time data on their water use. With HomeConnect, you can view your water use down to the hour which allows you to familiarize yourself with your daily water use patterns so you can catch abnormal usage before it drives up your water bill. Set your water use thresholds so you can get alerts via email or text if your use goes above a set limit, this can also help avoid property damage at a rental or if you’re out of town.

 

Sprinkler Aim: Check for Efficient Alignment, Proper Throw, Consistency

 

When you’re walking the line on your sprinkler system, check that your heads are spraying water onto the grass not pavement or other areas that don't need water.  If you see overspray, you can usually fix it pretty easily by adjusting the throw radius.  How you do this will depend on the type and brand of sprinkler you have. Some sprinkler nozzles require a special adjustment tool, so if you need one, make sure you have it handy when you walk the line.

 

Now with some grass it’s impossible to avoid overspray, like narrow strips next to pavement like you see here. These are fantastic opportunities for a Desert Friendly Xeriscape Conversion. This rebate gives customers $3 per square foot for transforming their unwanted or inefficient grass to a healthier xeriscape that contains plants, trees, mulch and drip irrigation.

Another important aspect of checking your aim is looking for overflow. If you see water seeping off the grass, that tells you that the water isn’t soaking into the soil anymore, and no more water should be applied. This can usually be fixed by cutting back the time on your irrigation controller. Now if your grass needs more water than what can be applied before it starts running off, you can program your controller to a “cycle and soak” pattern. To determine the run times run your sprinklers until you see water is about to overflow. Then turn the sprinklers off, let it soak in for about half an hour, and run it again to meet your turf irrigation requirements. This is an excellent practice to help your grass develop a healthy and more drought tolerant root system, and it ensures that all of the water you’re paying for is benefiting your grass instead of being wasted in the street (which can result in a fine). Report Water Waste

Another solution for overflow is to replace all your spray nozzles with high efficiency rotating sprinkler nozzles, which we offer a rebate for. These nozzles apply water at a slower rate than traditional nozzles, giving water time to infiltrate to the root zone.

 

You should also make sure your sprinklers haven’t sunk or tilted.  Take a close look and make sure that the outer radius of your sprinkler is throwing to the head of its neighbor what we call head to head coverage.  And make sure that all the sprinkler throw patterns look consistent. The even distribution of water on your turf will help you avoid brown spots and uneven growth.

 

It’s very difficult to grow turf on a hill, the top can receive 2x as much water as the bottom. High efficiency nozzles and cycle and soak can help but, you’ve got another excellent candidate for a Desert Friendly Xeriscape Conversion rebate.

 

 

 

Clogs:

Automatic valves, drip emitter, end cap, basket filter.

 

Clogs in the system can be another cause of water waste. When sediment and debris collect in your system, water doesn’t get to the plants. And what do we tend to do when we see the plants struggle? Turn up the run times. That’s not going to help your plants.

 

If you have a drip system, before you turn it on for your monthly check, take one minute and open the valve box cover, unscrew the filter, which you can see in the picture up top, and clear out any debris you find. If you don’t see a filter, it's a good idea to get one installed. Once you turn the system on, inspect your emitters to make sure water is flowing as it should and clear any clogs that you identify. On the green-topped emitter pictured on the bottom left, this is easily done by rotating the flag and removing it from the main body of the emitter, place your finger over the hole to flush it (if the system is running) and replace the flag. Other types of emitters need to be replaced if clogged. It’s also a good idea to flush your line during your monthly check, which is done by removing the end cap while the system is running. If you don’t have an end cap, they are super easy to install and we recommend installing one to make maintenance easier.

 

To identify clogs in a sprinkler system, look for sputtering sprinklers.  If you look closer and don’t see a cracked nozzle, you probably have a clogged filter basket. To fix this, simply turn off the system, unscrew the nozzle, pull out the basket filter and wash out the debris.

 

 

Controller:

Controller

Our monthly service tip is to click through your controller settings on your timer. With this you’re looking out for a couple of things.

 

First, make sure that your settings haven’t unexpectedly changed as power surges and weather events can disrupt your controller's programming. If you’ve installed a fresh backup battery at the start of the season, which we recommend, you shouldn’t have to worry about a power failure wiping out your programming.

 

Another issue we come across is mystery programming. Controller programming is often not intuitive and sometimes well-intentioned people accidentally program a system to run the same zone multiple times, which ends up wasting water. If you have questions about programming your controller, email [email protected].

 

Most importantly, check that your controller is set appropriately for the season. You should not be watering the same in October as you were in June. If you need guidance on watering schedules, check out our Water by the Season charts.

Now if making regular adjustments isn’t something you’d realistically do, you can purchase a Smart Controller which will figure it all out for you. These are wifi enabled devices that will calculate how much water your landscape needs based on local weather conditions and make the necessary adjustments for you. We've calculated that if everybody in our service area adjusted their sprinklers for the seasons we would easily meet our water conservation goals. We’ll give you 25% off up to $100 rebate back on your water bill for installing one.

Check out our Irrigation Efficiency Guide.

 

 

Best Practices and Common Mistakes:

A quick note about your mid-summer check. Make sure you’re adjusting for plant growth. If you have a drip system, move your emitters to the edge of the plant’s root ball, or drip line. You want to avoid the situation where the emitter is placing water directly onto the trunk of established trees and plants.

 

With sprinkler systems, maintain the vegetation so it doesn’t interfere with the streams of water. Trim back plants for sprinkler clearance. And when it comes to grass height if the grass is too tall it will block the sprinkler. If it’s too low, your grass doesn't shade its roots and can dry out quickly making it susceptible to drought stress. Aim for grass height between 3-4” Check vegetation around irrigation.

If you suspect you’ve got a problem with your irrigation system and you’d like help troubleshooting it, you can always contact us through “AskanExpert” and we can walk you through it or even come out to your property for an irrigation consultation. We want to help you save water and have a healthy landscape, so please don’t hesitate to reach out!

 

Learn More Here:

 

Irrigation 101 Tutorials

Improving Irrigation Efficiency Can Be Affordable

Drip Irrigation Maintenance Checklist

3 Steps to Landscape Success Webinar

 Irrigation Efficiency Guide

Residential Irrigation Rebates Page

Have a question about the article? Email us at [email protected]

Desert Dessert Recipes From Your Garden

Desert Dessert Recipes From Your Garden

by | Jul 31, 2026 | Do It Yourself (DIY), Edibles

Summer evenings in Albuquerque often end outdoors with a refreshing drink and dessert. We’ve partnered with Edible New Mexico magazine to bring you a selection of lovely recipes made from two fruit trees commonly grown in Albuquerque.

Apple and Pomegranate trees grow well in our area. In fact, a 1926 survey by the New Mexico Manzano Forest Reserve identified an apple tree that is believed to have been planted prior to 1676, which makes New Mexico home to the oldest apple orchard in the United States. Apple production in the state peaked in the 1960s, in the heydey of the Red Delicious variety.

Pomegranate trees are native to the region that stretches from present-day Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, and northern India. Through the millennia, they were cultivated to grow in warmer regions of the Mediterranean. Therefore, it makes sense that they perform well in New Mexico. In Albuquerque, Pomegranates benefit from a protected, south-facing location to improve winter survival.

Harvesting time for both of these fruit trees are late summer and fall. Apples are ripe for picking in late August followed by Pomegranates starting in October. Below are some drink and dessert recipes for you to enjoy when these fruits are at their finest this season.

 

DRINKS

Pomegranate and Balsamic Shrub

 

Makes 1 pint

Level: Easy; Prep time: 10 minutes; Cook time: 10 minutes;  Cooling time and steeping time:  A day-1 week.

Shrubs are one of the easiest nonalcoholic cocktail bases to make. They are just fruit, sugar and vinegar in equal parts. They’re endlessly adaptable and a great way to preserve seasonal produce. This version pairs pomegranate with a touch of balsamic for depth and complexity.

Pomegranate and Balsamic Shrub

Ingredients

  • 1/2 cup fresh pomegranate arils (seeds)
  • 1/2 cup white sugar
  • 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
  • 1/4 cup red wine vinegar

Instructions

  1. In a medium, nonreactive bowl, combine pomegranate arils and sugar; mix until the sugar coats all the fruit. Let the mixture sit for 1 hour at room temperature.
  2. Mash fruit with a wooden spoon to break it up.
  3. Let sit for another hour and stir again. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and let sit at room temperature for 24 hours.
  4. Add in vinegar, stir, and let sit, covered, for 1 week at room temperature, making sure to stir the mixture every day. After a week, strain the fruit by pouring through a cheesecloth-lined sieve.

Notes

Storage: Refrigerate shrub syrups. Tightly sealed, they can last for up to 6 months. If opened often, they last 3-6 weeks: taste syrup before using to make sure the flavor is good. Discard immediately if it has mold or any signs of continued fermentation, such as bubbling, cloudiness or sliminess.

For mocktail: Combine 1 1/2 ounces of a shrub with 4 ounces of soda water in a glass with ice.

 

 

Apple and Formosa Oolong and Mocktail

Makes 1 cup of syrup

Level: Easy; Prep time: 15 minutes; Cook time: 25 minutes; Total time: 40 minutes, plus cooling time

This recipe makes use of the inevitable apple waste from making pies, or any other apple recipe for that matter. Simply toss cores in a bag and freeze until ready to use. There is no need to worry about the seeds; cooking the cores eliminates the arsenic toxins.

Formosa oolong is semi-oxidized and falls somewhere between green and black tea. It is an excellent brew for mocktails. Double the sugar in this recipe, and you will have a syrup thick enough for your pancakes and waffles.

 

Apple and Formosa Oolong Syrup and Mocktail

Ingredients

Apple oolong syrup (makes 1 cup)

  • 6 assorted apple cores (8 ounces)
  • 5 black cardamom pods, lightly crushed
  • 4 teaspoons Formosa oolong tea leaves
  • 2 cups water
  • 1 cup granulated sugar

Mocktail (serves 1)

  • 3/4 ounce lemon juice
  • 1 1/2 ounces apple oolong syrup
  • 3 ounces sparkling water
  • 1 thyme sprig, for garnish

Instructions

Syrup

  1. Put apple cores, cardamom pods, tea leaves, and water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, then continue to boil uncovered, until the liquid reduces by half, about 20 minutes.
  2. Strain through a fine mesh strainer into a medium bowl, pressing on the softened apple cores with a wooden spoon to release additional liquid.
  3. Pour 1 cup of apple liquid into the saucepan. Add sugar and return the pan to the stove over medium-high heat. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring, until sugar dissolves and the liquid gets slightly thicker but still quite pourable, about 5 minutes. Cool and strain into a bottle for storing. Keeps in refrigerator for 2-3 weeks.

Mocktail

  1. Pour lemon juice and syrup into a shaker and shake. Then pour evenly into a rocks glass with ice. Top with sparkling water and stir gently. Garnish with a sprig of thyme.

 

 

 

DESSERTS

Pomegranate Upside-Down Blue Corn Bread

Serves 8


Level: Easy; Prep time: 10 minutes; Cook time: 1 hour, 10 minutes; Total time: 1 hour, 20 minutes, plus 15 minutes resting time

This pomegranate upside-down bread is a bit seedy but if you love this fruit, you’re used to that. Butterfly pea flowers take the blue corn bread mix to another level of the cerulean hue. The contrast between the bright red fruit topping and the blue bottom of the corn bread is stunning. Swap in any seasonal fruit for your upside-down top and serve with a light weeknight dinner of calabacitas or alongside other colorful fare on a holiday table.

Pomegranate Upside-Down Blue Corn Bread

Servings: 8

Ingredients

  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 1/4 cup brown sugar
  • 2 cups pomegranate arils (seeds)
  • 3 cups blue corn bread mix
  • 2 teaspoons butterfly pea flower powder
  • 1 1/4 cups buttermilk
  • 1/4 cup vegetable oil
  • 2 tablespoons honey
  • 2 eggs

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F (or whatever temperature is recommended for your corn bread mix)
  2. In a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Remove from heat and swirl butter to coat the entire bottom of the pan. Sprinkle with brown sugar, then spread pomegranate seeds evenly on top of the sugar. Set aide.
  3. Combine blue corn bread mix, butterfly pea powder, buttermilk, oil, and eggs in a large mixing bowl.
  4. Spoon corn bread batter over fruit and spread it evenly from edge to edge. Bake for 35 minutes (or whatever time is recommended for your corn bread mix) or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
  5. Cool for a few minutes. Then run a knife around the edge of the corn bread and place a large plate or platter upside down over the cake pan. Using pot holders to hold the pan to the plate. Flip the plate over and lift off the pan, so the bread comes out upside down on the plate.

Notes

If you want to make this recipe without a prepackaged mix, follow your favorite corn bread recipe using blue cornmeal and adding 2 teaspoons butterfly pea flower powder to the dry ingredients. Follow step 2 for the pomegranate topping.

 

 

Apples Bonne Femme

Serves 6, Level and prep time

This recipe was first appearing in Auguste Escoffier’s Le Guide Culinaire, pommes bonne femme showcases the apple with the simplest of French methods. This version is adapted from Jacques Pépin’s recipe in Essential Pépin. Choose apples that can hold up during baking; dense, thicker-skinned varieties such as Gala, Fuji, Red Delicious, and Golden Delicious work well.

Apples Bonne Femme

Ingredients

  • 6 large apples (2 pounds)
  • 1/2 cup apricot jam or preserves
  • 1/2 cup light maple syrup
  • 6 teaspoons unsalted butter
  • 6 teaspoons light brown sugar
  • 6 tablespoons chopped nuts (optional)
  • 6 1 inch-thick slices dry (day old) baquette
  • Cinnamon or nutmeg
  • Mint, for garnish

Instructions

  1. Preheat over to 375 degrees F. Rinse and dry apples.
  2. Core apples, taking care to remove all pith and seeds. Cut about 1/4 inch off the bottom of each apple so it can stand upright on the baguette silce while cooking.
  3. Score apples about one-third of the way down, cutting through skin (no more than 1/4 inch deep) and drawing the incision all the way around. As the apples cook, the flesh will explode and the part above this cut will rise, almost like the cap of a mushroom.
  4. Arrange baguette slices in a gratin dish or baking dish that can second as a tabletop serving dish. Place an apple on top of each baguette slice.
  5. Place one teaspoon butter and one teaspoon brown sugar in the cored hole of each apple. Mix together apricot jam and maple syrup and pour into cored hole, allowing mixture to spill over and coat the apples. Sprinkler one tablespoon chopped nuts and a pinch of cinnamon or freshly grated nutmeg over each apple.
  6. Bake for 30 minutes.
  7. Baste apples and cook for another 30 minutes.
  8. Spoon some of the juice from the baking dish over the apples and let cool to lukewarm before serving. Garnish with a sprig of mint.
  9. Serve as is, or celebrate your apple creation by adding whipped cream, creme fraiche, or ice cream.

 

 

Learn More Here:

Fruit Tree for the Homeowner

Subtropical Fruit Trees for the High Desert: Pomegranates and Figs

How Much Water to Provide to Fruit and Vegetables to Get a Significant Yield

Tree Irrigation Webinar

 

 

505Outside.com in coordination with Edible New Mexico magazine https://www.ediblenm.com/. Have a question about the article or anything else? [email protected]