Trees are incredibly valuable and provide a wide array of
benefits, from increasing home values to improving mental health.
Unfortunately, Albuquerque has suffered large losses of trees in the past
decade. It’s more important now than ever to take care of your existing trees.
A common sight on spring evenings is seeing people with
their thumb on the hose, spraying the trunk of a tree. While it’s great to see
people caring for their trees, there is a better way to water them.
Trees have several different types of roots that serve different functions. Fine hair feeder roots are responsible for taking up water. Because these feeder roots are generally located near the tree’s canopy edge, this is where you want to apply water: a little inside and a little outside of the canopy edge.
TREE WATERING TIPS:
1. Hand watering
Turn your hose to a low flow or fast drip, so the water soaks into the soil before running off (try a hose end shut off valve). Set a timer and move the hose to different locations every 20 minutes starting 5 feet from the trunk to just outside the canopy edge. Small to medium trees will require watering at between 12 and 20 locations. Larger trees may need to be watered in sections over a few days.
2. Drip irrigation on desert friendly xeriscape
Growing healthy trees in a desert friendly xeriscape is possible using drip irrigation such as flag emitters. As trees grow, they require more resources in the form of soil rooting space and water. That means that as trees become established, drip irrigation emitters need to be shifted away from the original rootball (at the time of planting) out to the edge of the tree’s canopy. Additionally, the number and size (volume) of emitters needs to be increased as the tree grows. Most people don’t make these adjustments. Consider these strategies instead:
Plant an understory of groundcovers or flowering perennials within and beyond the tree’s canopy. The emitters used to water the groundcover plants will, in turn, water the tree. As the tree becomes larger it may eventually shade out the groundcovers, but the emitters should be kept in place to continue watering the tree.
Consider supplemental watering by hand in dry areas of your yard that are not covered by the drip irrigation system.
A similar strategy is to use professional landscape drip line (often referred to as netafim) in a grid or spirals in and outside of the tree’s canopy. This irrigation material requires less frequent maintenance and can be installed under mulch. As the tree matures, the drip line can be expanded and shifted to support the increasing needs of the tree. Understory plantings can also be used with this type of irrigation material.
3. Using sprinkler irrigation to water trees in a grass lawn
Most lawns in our area require nearly 40 inches of yearly irrigation to look good. So, it makes sense to plant a tree in the lawn to take advantage of all that water. Most of the large, beneficial trees in our city parks are grown like this. However, some species (like cottonwoods) respond to the shallow and frequent lawn irrigation by making shallow roots that protrude above the surface. These surface roots create tripping hazards. Damage to the tree can result from lawn mowers, too. Shallow roots also make the tree more susceptible to drought stress. Encourage tree roots to go deeper by occasionally (one-two times per month) running the lawn sprinklers for three or more cycles for a longer period. This will help to get water down deep, where it will remain in the soil longer and encourage roots to move deeper. Occasional deep watering in lawns also has the added benefit of flushing out salts accumulated from hard water and fertilizer.
Example of exposed surface roots. Author: Amos Arber, ASLA, ISA Xeriscape Incentive Inspector with the Water Resources Division for the Water Authority. Have a question about the article AskAnExpert@abcwua.org
Do you want to walk barefoot across cool, soft grass? Especially on those hot summer days? We’d love for you to do that! We also want you to take care of your lawn in a healthy way that saves the most water.
One might assume that proper lawn care begins in the spring
but creating that beautiful lawn can start at any time. Sometimes it’s even better
to start in the fall. Either way, you need to begin with good soil, full of
organic material that will both provide nutrition and help hold in that
moisture. But if you don’t already have that, how do you get it?
First, dethatch your lawnonce a year. Most lawns need this done when the layer of thatch reaches roughly ½” thick. Cool season grasses, such as bluegrass, need to be dethatched in the fall, whereas warm season grasses, such as Bermudagrass, need to be dethatched in the spring.
Aeratingis the second step needed to keep your lawn as healthy and water efficient as possible. If you have an older lawn, or have highly compacted soil, you should aerate twice a year -- once in the spring and again in the fall. If you are aerating, or hiring someone else to do it, run the irrigation first and flag all your spray heads or rotors. This prevents inadvertently creating the need for sprinkler repairs! Aerate the whole lawn one direction and then again perpendicular to the first pass.
Also, regularly sharpen the blades on your mower and set it up as a mulching mower. Your mowing height should be as high as possible to help maintain a healthy lawn and conserve water.
Watering correctly is most important, so maintain your irrigation system year-round, and follow the Water by the Seasons watering recommendations. Check all the filters on each of your spray heads or rotors, then run your system to ensure that all of your spray nozzles or rotors are aligned and aren’t clogged. Repair or replace anything that isn’t working properly. Also check the base of each spray head to make sure you don’t have a leak at the base. The ground will probably be soft and squishy if there is one. To improve efficiency of your system, choose high efficiency sprinkler nozzles (rebates of $2 are available).
One last thing. Kick those shoes off and go enjoy that lawn!
Author: Richard Perce, Irrigation Efficiency Specialist with the Water Resources Division for the Water Authority. Have a question about the article AskAnExpert@abcwua.org
As the landscape irrigation season gets under way, inspect your irrigation system for leaks and clogged, broken or missing sprinkler heads and emitters.
Use a pressure gauge to verify that sprinkler heads are operating at recommended pressures, and check and clean all system filters.
Time to follow our Spring Watering Recommendations.
Time to follow our spring watering recommendations. Remember, if it rains more than a half inch you can skip your next scheduled watering time as there is no need for supplemental irrigation.
To avoid damage to your irrigation system from
freezing temperatures, it is important to “winterize” it by protecting exposed outdoor
fixtures. If your hose bib is left exposed or standing water is left in pipes, valves
or sprinkler heads during freezing temperatures, that water may expand and damage your
system fixtures. That
could result in costly but avoidable repairs. Each irrigation system may be different,
but the general idea is the same: protect your irrigation system now to save
time and expense later. Here are a few tips you should take to prepare your irrigation
system for winter.
1. Disconnect the water supply to your irrigation system
a. If you manually water using a hose or if the irrigation system is attached to an outdoor spigot, you should disconnect it and cover your hose bib using a faucet cover. A faucet cover is easy to install and is usually made from durable hard plastic. It protects your outdoor faucet from freezing temperatures. This in an easy, inexpensive fix that will provide you peace of mind when the temperatures drop.
Pro Tip #1
Faucet cover to protect hose bib from frost.
Disconnecting your hose and covering your hose bib is very important in winter. If you leave the hose connected, water can freeze in the hose all the way into the hose bib and the pipe that goes inside your home. If the house pipe breaks, you will have water flooding inside, and potential major water damage inside your home. It’s definitely worth the $10-$15 on these insulated covers to prevent potentially thousands of dollars in plumbing repairs and water damage to your home. Don’t assume that if the hose bib freezes it will drip and freeze only outside your home. Sometimes the damage is a whole lot worse.
b. If you have a below ground irrigation system, locate your shut-off valve (often hidden in a 3” PVC pipe; often with a white or yellow cap, as shown in the photo). Turn it to the right to shut it off. Be careful when turning so you don’t break the valve. Your shut off valve may look like this:
Irrigation shut-off valve.
Pro
Tip #2
Sometimes the water shutoff for your sprinkler
system is in the green box shown in the picture. If so, we recommend adding some
heat tape and/or insulation in the box because it will be exposed to freezing temperatures.
If you can insulate it and protect it you can avoid potential frozen pipes at the
shut off and potential repairs in spring. Watch out for spiders, though,
because the shutoff box is a warm wet place.
2. Turn off the irrigation system controller (if you have one)
Irrigation controller set to off.
Pro Tip #3
If you forget to shut off your irrigation system during winter you can potentially have your automated sprinklers running in freezing temperatures. That can freeze and damage your sprinkler heads. Make sure you turn off all automatic cycles for your system. If you have a drip system for trees and other plants that need to be watered periodically throughout winter run the system manually when you are home, and only in above freezing temperatures. Don’t just assume that setting it to run during the day will be okay, either. There are days in winter when the temperature doesn’t get above freezing. It’s best to just turn it on when you’re home and then watch it. If your sprinkler heads do crack or break and you don’t notice, you will likely flood your yard in spring when you turn your system back to automatic settings.
3. Drain the water from all pipes, valves, and sprinkler heads.
Drain cap at the end of a drip system.
There
are several ways to drain your system.
Manual
drain valves and automatic drain valves can be blown out with compressed air. Local
irrigation specialists can help.
If you
have an irrigation system with drip hoses, we recommend you locate the end cap (drain
cap) of the drip hose and drain out the water.
Pro Tip #4
Sometimes irrigation systems don’t have drain
valves. If you don’t have these, simply make sure you’ve turned off your sprinkler
system prior to winter and freezing temps. Then you can have a professional inspect
the system in spring before you turn it back on. A professional will inspect your
system for leaks and make any repairs so you don’t flood your yard. So avoid the
headache and have an inspection. If you consistently have problems year after year,
drain valves can be installed to help clear the lines each winter.
Reminder: If you need to water in the winter season use your hose and remember to cover it when finished.
How to shut off your irrigation system for winter.
505Outside sat down with local landscape expert Wes Brittenham, Farm and
Landscape Manager at Los Poblanos Historic
Inn & Organic Farm, to chat about Fall
maintenance tasks for Albuquerque gardens. At Los Poblanos, Wes oversees
all growing things on their 25 acres, from the historic gardens to the newer
more xeric and multi-functional landscapes, as well as the kitchen garden and the
fields of lavender.
Wes has noticed many homeowners with traditional landscaped yards
keep them highly pruned with perfectly trimmed rounded plants free and clear of
leaf litter and debris. Over the last 15 years, as homeowners have made the
shift to xeriscape landscapes (aka desert friendly) he’s noticed they haven’t
shifted their maintenance regimens. They should.
Xeriscape landscapes don’t require the rigorous maintenance that
traditional landscapes do, so he’s been teaching homeowners to “get over the
tidiness!” He wants homeowners to embrace the shape of native plants and, in
general, do less yard work. Especially in the Fall.
When asked what homeowners can do to prepare their landscapes
for winter, he gave us a short list of surprisingly simple to-dos:
Leave it natural. There is no need to prune! So leave stems with seed heads in
place. This includes grasses, perennials and shrubs. The dead stems, leaves and
seed heads provide natural habitats for wildlife all winter. They also give the
garden good structure over the winter. When Albuquerque gets a blanket of snow,
the wispy seed heads of the grasses create a beautiful silhouette. Leaving dead
foliage insulates the plants from winter freeze damage, too.
Do clean up fruit and
vegetable debris from gardens. This helps reduce bug
populations and prevents fungus problems.
Leave the leaves. When the trees start losing their leaves, rake them around
the base of plants to provide habitat, retain moisture, and create natural
mulch under the plant.
With over four decades of experience, Wes’s advice is extremely useful for local homeowners. Efficiency is key, so use his three simple tips for a great fall and winter landscape and minimal yard work this Fall.
Your landscape needs a lot less water in September than it did in the summertime. About 35 percent less on average. The days may still be warm, but shorter days and cooler nights in the months of September, October and November means less evaporation, which means less irrigation is required. Adjust your irrigation controller following the Fall Season Watering Recommendations to save water and money this Fall.
Ramping down your landscape irrigation does not mean you
need to stop watering all together. If you have a lawn, cut back to two days
per week. Cut back to two to four days a month for trees. Fall is when trees,
shrubs and other perennial plants get busy growing their roots, and proper watering
supports this activity. After spending the summer putting energy into growing
leaves, flowers and fruit producing plants take advantage of the fall season by
anchoring their root system to the earth. It’s important to fortify root systems
during the Fall so they have a stronger trunk and stem during the winter
season.
Fall season is also a great time to put in new plants, for the
same reason – they spend their time growing their root system instead of leaves
and flowers. But new plants need more frequent watering to help them get established.
Keep in mind that new plants need at least a month to anchor in the ground before
the first freeze, so don’t plant too late in the season to avoid damage.
And remember it is not necessary to irrigate when it rains, or on days following a good rain event (or about a 1/2" of rain). Using nature as your source of water encourages a desert friendly landscape.
Want to know how much your landscape really needs? Call 505-289-3003 to schedule a free, efficient irrigation consultation with a Water Authority expert.
