As I write this, a cold thin snow cover still hides the ground, but it won’t last long. If we’re lucky, the snow will slowly melt and seep into the soil; if we aren’t lucky, it will sublimate right into the atmosphere – straight from solid to gas. Alas, the roots of our trees lie in the dry desert soil, waiting for water.
It’s always that way, here in the arid Southwest. Our soil, lacking in moisture, also lacks living and dead organic matter. The water that falls on our land either falls infrequently, too little or too much all at once. Still, the plants and trees persist. It is up to us, the human caretakers of these places and trees, to do whatever we reasonably can to provide them with what they need to survive.
Sounds kinda doom-and-gloom, you say? It does! This year promises to be very dry and likely very hot. We all need to do our part to conserve water, and yet we want to keep those established trees healthy and help recently planted trees get established. So, what to do?
It turns out that the two best things we can do are relatively simple. We can reasonably and regularly irrigate the trees (more details below) and apply a layer of coarse organic material as a mulch over the root zone of our trees.
Since every tree in every yard is different, how often you’ll need to water your trees largely depends on how quickly water moves through the soil. In sandy and gravelly areas (Westside and Foothills), the water passes through the soil quickly, moving past the tree roots. These types of soil need watering more often but with less water each time.
Here is how to do it: Water long enough that after a day, when the water has soaked in, the soil has been moistened about 16-24 inches deep. Poke a thin piece of metal (a long screwdriver or something similar will work) into the ground and see how deep you can push it in. That will tell you approximately how deep the water penetrated the soil.
Do this in a broad area, focusing not on the trunk but on the part of the ground under the outer half of the canopy and maybe a bit beyond the drip line (edge of the canopy). Feel the soil with your fingers to determine when to water again. You don’t want to let the soil completely dry out between irrigations! Also, pay attention to the leaves, noticing if they are full and flush or droopy and tired.
The best way to water soil that has more clay in it is to irrigate less often but with more water. This kind of soil holds more water, but that water moves slowly. Be careful not to overwater, especially near the trunk. Too much water in the soil interferes with root function and can more easily lead to root rot and decay issues. Concentrate the water in the outer half, and also in a bit of the canopy shadow, all the way around the tree.
Wood chips, which can be obtained from a tree service or a local vendor, are the ideal mulch for trees. No matter what soil type and irrigation pattern you have, putting approximately three inches of wood chip mulch directly on the soil does wonders for your trees. As with any mulch, wood chips cover and cool the soil and reduce evaporation. As the chips decay, they foster the development of a forest-like soil ecosystem, which is just what tree roots really benefit from. Think of the ground surface in a forest — bits and pieces of old trees, slowly decaying at the surface. Add a new layer of mulch every couple of years, and watch your trees thrive!
Other mulches, like pine bark chips or pecan shells, are not quite as good as wood chips. Rock mulch is not a good choice. It absorbs sunlight and releases that energy as heat that rises through the tree’s canopy and strips even more precious moisture from stressed leaves.
Did you know that the Water Utility Authority will help cover the cost of some of this work? Through the Treebate program, they will offset a portion of the cost of certain purchases — such as new trees — and activities such as pruning and other maintenance work, soil improvements through compost and mulch and even some irrigation costs. Check out tree recommendations and all the program details here.
Irrigation controllers can be intimidating, particularly because they only get adjusted seasonally and it is easy to forget how to program the timer correctly.
In this article, we are going to explain some terms and point out some functions which are universal, regardless of the type of controller you have. We are also going to provide some pointers on what will help you keep track of it all, as well as provide you with links to a few programming videos that discuss the most common irrigation controllers in Albuquerque. So let’s dig in!
On nearly every controller you will find the following functions: program, time/date, start time, run time, days to water, autorun, and off. You will almost always have some +/- keys and some right and left arrow keys. These +/- and arrow keys are used to set your times and days. Other functions may be included on various timers as well.
Illustrated are two of the most common controllers installed in Albuquerque, the Hunter Pro-C and the Rainbird ESP-Me. They look different at first glance, but a closer inspection shows that they have essentially all the same functions.
What do you need to know to be able to set your controller this spring?
Time/Date: This is an important detail to keep up-to-date so that you are watering at the correct time and on the days that you want to water.
Zone/Station: A zone, or station, is all the sprinklers or drip lines that are controlled by a single valve. You may have one sprinkler valve and one drip valve split between your front and back yard. Each one is a separate zone which means you have two zones.
Program: Programs are how you group your zones that have plants with similar water needs. Using the above example:The lawn sprinkler zone would be selected on Program A. If the drip zone has similar water needs (trees and shrubs) you would group them both on Program B. This is because your lawn (Program A) needs to be watered differently from your trees and shrubs (Program B). If you have an additional zone, like for a vegetable garden, you will put that drip zone in Program C to water differently.
Start Time: It is important to know that the start time applies to the whole Program, not to each zone in a program. Controllers will run zones in succession within a program.
Run Time: This is the amount of time each station, or zone, waters every time it comes on
Example of spring programming:
Program A starts at 6:00 a.m.and your lawn sprinkler zone runs for eight minutes. Program A, zone 1, will quit watering by 6:08 a,m. If you had more lawn zones, they would water one right after the next.
Program B, your trees and shrubs zone starts at 10:00 a.m. It runs for 75 minutes so Program B would end watering at 11:15 a.m.
Days to Water: Once again, the days to water apply to all the zones, or stations in one program.
Example of spring programming:
Program A, your lawn, needs to be watered once or twice a week in the spring so you would set Program A to run twice a week.
Program B, your trees and shrubs, need to be watered only once a week in the spring so on Saturdays, for example, when you know that you have a better chance of checking the system for issues.
Tips & What to Watch For: Here are some tips to make programming easier and some tips to avoid common mistakes
Create a seasonal or monthly calendar and hang it up next to your controller.
Label each zone (Example: Zone 1 - front lawn close to the street)
Create calendar reminders for yourself, either on your phone or paper calendar, for each season.
Normally you won’t change the amount of time each zone waters seasonally, just how often you are watering.
Always double, or triple, check which program and zone you are on when you adjust the settings so you don’t end up setting a lawn zone to water like a drip zone.
Make sure you are back at Auto/Run whenever you have finished making adjustments. Your controller may not run at all if it isn’t, or it may revert to its emergency programming (usually 10 minutes for every zone, every day).
Replace your battery back-up every year. You don’t want to reprogram your whole controller if the power goes out.
Links to common controllers found in the Albuquerque area:
Author: Richard Perce, Irrigation Efficiency Specialist with the Water Resources Division for the Water Authority. Have a question about the article? AskAnExpert@abcwua.org
Adopting water efficiency strategies will be the key to weathering the drought this year. These three simple steps can help you conserve water, rebates available for all three recommendations.
1. Update your controller with a WaterSense Smart Irrigation Controller
2. Replace your spray bodies with WaterSense Pressure Regulating Spray Sprinkler Bodies
WaterSense labeled spray sprinkler bodies with internal pressure regulation can reduce water waste by providing a consistent flow at the sprinkler nozzle. When the sprinkler body maintains pressure near its optimal operating pressure, the connected nozzle is better able to generate the right amount of water spray and coverage for a more uniform distribution of water across the landscape. Customers can choose from a list of pre-qualified spray sprinkler bodies.
High-efficiency sprinkler nozzles are a great solution for upgrading an old and poorly performing sprinkler system. These nozzles minimize water waste and feature a unique multi-trajectory rotating stream that delivers water at a steady rate. This slower application rate allows water to gently soak in at rates that soils can absorb. Use these nozzles to replace the sprinkler head on any conventional spray head body or pop up sprinkler. In most cases, you just remove the old, water wasting spray nozzle and replace it with the new head. For more information on these nozzles read this post.
Making these simple changes can result in 30% water savings. For installation, questions contact your favorite irrigation supply store professional or send us a question at AskAnExpert@abcwua.org
Author: Jill Brown, ASLA, is a Landscape Architect and owner of My Landscape Coach in Albuquerque, NM. Have a question about the article? AskAnExpert@abcwua.org
There is a saying that “time is more valuable than gold.” Watering your yard can bring relaxation and time to enjoy the beauty of creation. But, for people with larger yards and those who are too busy to devote hours each week to watering, an automated irrigation system can be just what they need to save that precious time.
Automated sprinkler irrigation systems are great for lawns and meadows, and automated drip irrigation systems are perfect for all other plants, including trees. Both systems are handy devices that can provide remarkable benefits if they are properly designed, installed, and maintained:
Aesthetic Benefits: an automated irrigation system is one of the best ways to keep your landscape beautiful and healthy because it can provide the right amount of water at the right time. This is especially important during the summer months when the sun’s intensity can dry out the soil and damage your turf and other plants.
Save Water = Save Money: even though there is an upfront cost for installation of an automatic irrigation system, it will work to ensure the most efficient use of water for your specific landscape. This means more money will stay in your pocket with lowered water bills.
Improved efficiency: Different plants have different watering needs and individual zones of an automated irrigation system can allow for delivering the right amount of water with the most effective irrigation method.
Flexibility: An automated irrigation system can include a Water Sense Smart Irrigation Controller, which can take the guesswork out of scheduling. These typically run between $200-$400 if professionally installed, or $100-$200 if you install it yourself. Rebates are available!
Reduce Weeds: automated drip irrigation systems can be extremely efficient at providing water to a targeted area. This reduces the number of weeds in your yard since it will deprive them of water and instead direct that water towards desirable plants, trees, and shrubs.
More time to sleep in: the best time to water your yard is early in the morning when the sun is down because water does not evaporate as quickly, meaning your plants will have the maximum amount of time to absorb the water. This means you will use less water than if you water during the day because your sprinkler system will not be competing against the evaporating power of the sun.
More time for camping: just like a programmable thermostat, automated irrigation systems allow you to customize your watering schedule. Once programmed, the system will turn on and turn off automatically, so you do not need to be present when your yard is watered. For that reason, automated irrigation systems are popular among happy campers!
An automated irrigation system for your home offers many benefits ranging from financial to aesthetic and convenience. If you are wondering where to start, send us an email at AskAnExpert@abcwua.org
Author: Carlos A. Bustos, Water Conservation Program Manager with the Water Resources Division for the Water Authority. Have a question about the article? AskAnExpert@abcwua.org
With drought conditions predicted to continue for the foreseeable future, we’re likely to water more often this spring and summer. Make every drop count – and keep us on track to meet our conservation goals – by performing routine maintenance to maximize your sprinkler system’s efficiency.
Monthly
Check for leaks by inspecting water lines, sprinklers, emitters, and other components. Look for wet spots in the landscape and listen for hissing to help locate issues.
Your irrigation system is only as good as its aim. Adjust sprinklers and emitters to make sure they’re delivering water to the landscape and not onto rocks, bare earth, or pavement.
Replace damaged parts immediately with identical or equivalent parts. This ensures uniform coverage and optimal system efficiency.
Locate and clean any clogged equipment.
Use water meter and historical data to help reveal hidden leaks.
Check to make sure irrigation controller is set appropriately for the season
Spring
As the watering season gets underway, check your irrigation system for leaks and clogged, broken, or missing sprinkler heads and emitters.
An outdated irrigation system can waste time, water, and money. Consider installing a new WaterSense-labeled, “smart” irrigation controller to take the guesswork out of scheduling (rebates available).
Set the controller for watering frequency, start times, and duration per zone per program.
Replace the back-up battery in the controller.
Test the manual shut-off or isolation valve.
Check the water pressure in each irrigation zone.
Check and clean filters, wherever they are in the system.
Check and clean the filter screen in each sprinkler body. Adjust the rotor arc or spray pattern to eliminate water waste.
Test heads to make sure they are delivering consistently and efficiently.
Inspect all drip emitters (look for wet zones after running a complete cycle). Unclog or replace any that are malfunctioning.
Early Summer
Adjust controller for the appropriate seasonal setting.
Adjust sprinklers and emitters to make sure they’re delivering water to the landscape and not onto rocks, bare earth, or pavement.
Check and clean filters, wherever they are in the system.
Inspect all drip emitters (look for wet zones after running a complete cycle). Unclog or replace any that are malfunctioning.
As plants grow bigger, move the emitters to the edge of each plant’s root ball or drip line to encourage further root development.
Fall
Adjust controller for the appropriate seasonal setting.
Test the manual shut-off or isolation valve.
Check and clean filters, wherever they are in the system.
Inspect all drip emitters (look for wet zones after running a complete cycle). Unclog or replace any that are malfunctioning.
Winter
Guard your irrigation system against freezing temperatures by draining pipes and tubing and properly winterizing your system.
When temperatures are below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, discontinue automatic watering and turn on systems manually or hand water as needed.
The balancing act of watering your trees in the fall and winter is important. Established trees should be watered two to three times a month in the fall season and once a month in the winter season. If not watered properly, trees that get too dry during this time can suffer stress and drought injury. This often does not show up until the heat of the following summer, which then makes trees more susceptible to pests and disease. Fall is the time to set your trees up for winter success.
Other important factors to consider when watering trees:
Newly planted trees (trees planted within 1-3 years), are more susceptible to damage from dry conditions and should be watered more frequently than established trees. Try watering them to a depth of 24 inches three times a month in the fall and twice a month in the winter.
Evergreen trees lose water through their needles in the dry winter air. They need more stored-up water going into the winter season to make up for that. Cold, dry winds can strip water from evergreens faster than their roots can absorb it, too. That is why it is especially important to provide enough water in the fall and during dry, warm spells in the winter.
Even though they lose their leaves, deciduous trees should also not get too dry in the fall and winter. Water acts as an insulator for both the tree and soil. Soil that stays moist will be warmer. Likewise, plant cells that are plump with water will be less susceptible to damage from the cold. Water deciduous trees to a depth of 24 inches twice a month during the fall and once a month in the winter.
When watering any tree, remember to apply water out to the edge of the tree’s canopy drip line. Most established trees have a root spread equal to their height and beyond. Water deeply and avoid spraying foliage. Watering to the right depth depends on your specific soils, so you will want to measure how much water it takes your soils to reach 24 inches deep. Read this article for tips on measuring watering depth.
One of the best things you can do for your trees in the coming months is to add mulch. Layering three to four inches of organic mulch protects the soil from moisture loss and helps regulate soil temperature throughout the winter. Treebates for bulk organic mulch is available.
Pro Tip: "Watering to the right depth and managing the frequency of watering are both very important aspects of keeping our plants healthy throughout the year, but especially in the fall and winter months,” says Patrick Chavez, Trees of Corrales Wholesale Nursery.
Author: Amos Arber, Xeriscape Incentive Inspector, and Certified Arborist with the Water Resources Division for the Water Authority. Photography: Wes Brittenham Pro tip:Trees of Corrales Have a question about the article? AskAnExpert@abcwua.org
