One of the
great advantages of desert-adapted plants is the wealth of colorful flowers
they produce, a boon to gardeners and pollinators alike. Plants that bloom in
autumn offer pollen and nectar for insects and, if the seed heads are left to
ripen, a late season food source for birds.
After a long hot summer, some plants think the cool of fall means it’s spring again and burst into bloom with renewed vibrance. Salvia greggii is commonly called autumn sage because, even though it flowers brilliantly in spring and lightly all summer, fall brings on another strong show. Responding to the cooler, longer nights in autumn, Salvia’s late season color becomes even more intense. Autumn sage is a compact shrub that grows 2-feet tall and 3-feet wide, with small dark green leaves and spikes of flowers in red, rose pink, coral, purple or white. Hummingbirds and bees are frequent visitors. Autumn sage prefers well-drained soil and deep watering (24 to 30 inches) every week or two while blooming, monthly or less in winter.
Autumn sage, Salvia greggii
Many ornamental grasses are their showiest in autumn, too. There are several varieties of little bluestem Schizachryium scoparium with 12-inch wide clumps of narrow blue-green leaves and 24-inch tall slender stems bearing fuzzy seed heads. ‘Blaze’ little bluestem turns scarlet in fall and ‘The Blues’ turns a beautiful pink. Both keep their color into winter when they fade to a rich bronzy brown. The color is our reward for supplying the little extra water these grasses need.
Native grasses are also important larval food for butterflies and produce nutritious seeds for songbirds, bringing color on wings to the garden. Since the seed heads are a large part of the reason they are planted, ornamental grasses should be left uncut until early spring. Then, trim them a few inches from the ground so the new growth is not stymied by having to push through old stubble to reach sunlight.
Little bluestem Schizachryium scoparium
Perhaps the most spectacular late blooming perennial is the Maximilian sunflower Helianthus maximiliani. By early autumn, its flower stems are 5 to 7-feet tall. Established plants can spread 4 or more feet wide, shooting up dozens of flower stems. The top few feet of the stems are covered in 2-inch wide yellow sunflowers with yellow centers abuzz with bees. The show can last for several weeks in September or October, but after the flowers fade the plants become a bird buffet of seeds well into winter. Maximilian sunflowers grow best in soils that hold water well and produce the best show when watered to a depth of 2 feet weekly during the growing season, every two weeks in spring and fall and monthly or less in winter.
Maximilian sunflower, Helianthus maximiliani
Flowers aren’t the only source of fall color, either, but red leaves in fall are not the norm in New Mexico. Cottonwoods in the Bosque and aspens in the mountains are our autumn gold. Chinese pistache Pistacia chinensis has become one of the most dependable heat and drought tolerant shade trees and adds splashes of red fall foliage in the ABQ metro area. A great shade tree that is 20 to 30-feet tall at maturity with a canopy spread of 20-feet, Chinese pistache benefits from structural pruning while it is young to assure strong branching. Once well rooted, it should be watered at the edge of the branch canopy to a depth of 2 to 3 feet every few weeks during the growing season and monthly or less depending on winter moisture.
Chinese pistache, Pistacia chinensis
Author: Judith Phillips, owner of Design Oasis, landscape designer and garden writer with 30 years experience designing arid-adapted and native gardens in the high desert.
505Outside sat down with local landscape contractor Hunter Ten Broeck, owner of WaterWise Landscapes Incorporated, to chat about Water Harvesting in Albuquerque.
There are two categories of water harvesting techniques: passive water harvesting and active water harvesting. Passive water harvesting is the practice of slowing water down and encouraging it to soak into the ground. Water is collected from the source (roof, canale, downspout, or sloped earth) and directed to the landscape where the water can be immediately used by the plants. Active water harvesting uses rain barrels, cisterns, and other types of containers to store rainwater for later distribution. These typically hold as few as 200 gallons of water up to 10,000 gallons. A good calculation to remember is 1” of rain on a 1000 sq. ft. roof equals about 600 gallons of water.
Hunter
says the key to any type of water harvesting system, whether active or passive,
is to incorporate it into the landscape design. Thinking through how the rain
water will interact with your landscape and designing for that should be first
and foremost.
When asked what a homeowner could easily do to start water harvesting in their yard, Hunter recommended starting small and trying passive water harvesting. Passive systems can be as simple as a swale, a French drain (or rock burrito, as nicknamed by his staff), or more complicated systems that include building an underground soil sponge area. He says to start by finding the roof’s downspouts and canals, then provide a catch area underneath them. A catch area could be a concrete splash block or cobbles. Then direct that water away from the home via a cobble swale that runs into a planting area. This can be done easily by digging down a few inches and creating a slope away from the house into the planting area. Once the swale is dug, add cobble on top to stabilize the soil and prevent erosion.
Cobble swale located at downspout next to house.
To make Hunter’s “rock burrito” simply dig an 8” wide trench at least 12” deep and as long as necessary for the space. Slope the bottom of the trench toward the drainage area. Layer the trench with filter fabric followed by cobble or rocks. Roll the fabric over the rocks then backfill with soil. This will provide an underground collection area for water. Water will slowly soak into the ground providing moisture to adjacent planting areas.
"Rock Burrito" French drain under construction in an Albuquerque landscape.
For homeowners who are ready to tackle an active water harvesting system like a rain barrel or cistern, Hunter recommends adding a passive water harvesting system next to the active one for when the container overflows.
Passive water harvesting swale next to active water harvesting cistern.
Using every drop of water through water harvesting is an important feature Hunter incorporates into all his landscape designs.
Local Expert: Hunter Ten Broeck, Landscape Contractor and owner of WaterWise Landscapes Incorporated in Albuquerque, NM. Author: Jill Brown, ASLA Landscape Architect and owner of My Landscape Coach in Albuquerque, NM.
Everything in nature is
connected. Fostering the connections keeps ecosystems and gardens vital. And weaving
pollinator essentials together into a beautiful garden is a fun process. Start
by thinking about where you will view the garden from as well as how you’ll
move through the space to view pollinator activity without disrupting your
winged guests. Organize the largest and thirstiest plants around rainwater
harvesting opportunities such as gutters or canales, and use pathways to divide
larger spaces into smaller planting areas like herb gardens, wildflower beds
and native shrub borders. Include the essentials of food, shelter and water in
your garden and your pollinators will thrive.
Among the insects and
birds that pollinate plants, bees are the primary work force. There are 1000+ kinds
of native bees in New Mexico, as well as honey bees that assist plants in
producing seeds. Butterflies and moths are less efficient pollinators than
bees, and many have key relationships with specific plants: Monarchs
butterflies with milkweeds and hawkmoths with evening primroses. Beetles, bats
and hummingbirds are also nectar drinkers and pollinators.
Plants expend energy to
produce showy flowers to attract pollinators. In exchange for distributing the
pollen needed to fertilize the flowers so the plants can reproduce, the
pollinator feeds on the energy-rich nectar. The shapes and colors of flowers
determine who will pollinate them. Butterflies can’t hover to feed, so they
need open-faced flowers with places to land, like daisies and roses.
Hummingbirds and hawkmoths are able to hover while they probe tubular flowers
for their nectar and pollen. Plants with inconspicuous flowers are often
wind-pollinated, like native grasses, but are still part of the pollinator
support system. Their leaves feed many larval stage insects.
If you are new to the
neighborhood, survey plants nearby for pollinator activity and plant some of
the busiest ones. If you already have plants in your garden that are abuzz with
pollinators, think about replacing any plants that are shirking their habitat
role with ones that are better hosts. Choose plants that are rich in nectar and
well-adapted and watch your garden become a surprise party buzzing with energy.
Food sources include flower nectar for sugar and essential amino
acids, pollen for protein, and leaves as larval food. Native grasses are
especially valuable as caterpillar food. Plan to include food sources
throughout the seasons that pollinators are active.
Shelter includes layers of canopy from taller
trees, mid-height shrubs and groundcovers (knee high and shorter). Leave some
dead snags as hummingbird roosts and for bee nesting. Leave leaf litter in some
places and keep some open soil in out of the way areas for ground nesting
insect habitat. Cluster plants in masses of varied heights and densities as cover.
Plans for bee hotels and ready-made bee and bat nesting boxes are easy to find and
build. Check nature center gift shops and online for ready-made nesting boxes.
A
small, trickling water feature as a
source of drinking and bathing water for insects and birds should have shallow
edges to avoid drowning bees. An extra drip emitter in fine stone mulch or bare
ground is a good water source for bees and puddling place for butterflies.
Eliminate
pesticides and herbicides. You don’t wan to attract pollinators just to poison
them! Your health will benefit, too.
The greater the variety of plants, the greater diversity of pollinators will visit. Plant for a seasonal progression of blooms. It takes at least 100 sq. ft. of the same flower to consistently attract pollinators (think a 5-foot-tall and wide fernbush or butterfly bush or a 10-foot x 10-foot wildflower or herb bed space). So if your neighbor has a swath of red valerian, plant a few but use more of your space for sunflowers, mistflower, yarrow, beebalm, salvias, penstemon, oregano, fennel, whorled butterfly weed or native buckwheats. Pollinators don’t recognize property lines so the more neighbors who garden for pollinators, the richer your neighborhood will become in pollinators. Avoid hybrid flowers, especially varieties with double flowers since those plants may produce little or no nectar or pollen.
Opuntia englemannii with bee. Photo by Judith Phillips
There are
public pollinator gardens in Albuquerque:
Rio Grande Botanic Gardens on Central Ave at New York NW
El Oso Grande Pollinator Habitat at the east end of El Oso Grande Park on Osuna Road @ Morris NE
Albuquerque Garden Clubs Garden Center in Los Altos Park on Lomas just west of Eubank
Author: Judith Phillips, owner of Design Oasis, landscape designer and garden writer with 30 years experience designing arid-adapted and native gardens in the high desert.
Testing the soil moisture with a long screwdriver.
Use a soil probe or a long screwdriver to test soil moisture. Push the screwdriver into the soil 24 hours after you’ve watered your plants. It will go easily into moist soil. Mark and measure how far it went into the ground. That will tell you how deep you have watered that plant. Every yard is different, but once you figure out how long it takes your watering system to water to certain depths, you’ll be set.
Experienced gardeners in New Mexico know that the key to
success is in the soil. Soils in our climate are highly erosive and without
care will blow away with spring winds or wash out during summer monsoons.
Covering bare soil with mulch is an essential gardening practice with benefits like
reducing moisture loss through evaporation, suppressing weeds, and giving
landscapes a finished appearance. When you use organic mulches (as opposed to a
gravel type mulch), there are even more benefits. Like keeping the soil cool, improving
soil structure, and feeding the soil microbiology that supports plant health.
Despite the benefits, organic mulches continue to be passed
over for gravel in our area. This is due in part to our tendency to mimic the
practices we see around us. But those are not always best practices! This is
also a consequence of several myths that we’d like to dispel.
Before digging into these myths, let’s take a moment to
define the term “organic mulch.” A mulch is a layer of material placed on top
of the soil. An organic mulch is
one that is derived from living matter. The term “organic” in this context has
no relationship to the standards followed to generate the material. Examples of
locally available organic mulches are wood mulch, bark mulch, pecan shell
mulch, and straw. Because organic mulches were once alive, they contain
essential nutrients, minerals, and energy that nourish the soil ecosystem as
they decompose. An important consideration when using organic mulches is to
skip the landscape fabric, which prevents the rich organic matter created by
decomposition from working its way back into the soil.
Myth #1: Organic
mulches rob your soil of nitrogen
This is a common misconception that is easily dispelled.
Organics decompose via microorganisms that use nitrogen as they undergo
explosive reproduction in response to a new food source. This is why we say
that nitrogen gets “tied up” in the soil when unaged composts are integrated.
But therein lies the key. Mulches are not integrated into the soil - they lie
on top of it! By definition, decomposition only occurs on the surface area of
the material being decomposed. Therefore, plant roots do not compete for
nutrients with the microorganisms that are slowly breaking down the organic
mulch to feed the soil below.
Myth #2: You’re going
to attract all kinds of insects and vermin
The cool, moist environment created by organic mulches is
ideal for promoting plant health. Gravel mulches increase the reflective heat
in a landscape and compact the soil, contributing to plant stress. Heat also creates
higher water demand. The cool, moist layer that is so good for plant health
also provides a hospitable environment for insects. But mulch itself is not a
beacon for the insects in the neighborhood to colonize your yard. It simply
provides a more favorable habitat for
what is already there. But this environment also benefits insects and
vertebrates that predate on the undesirable ones. This creates a healthier
ecosystem that supports your plantings. If you have concerns about termites,
rest assured that a mulch layer does not provide the necessary habitat for a
termite colony. A one-foot bare space between organic mulches and your house
will discourage insects from finding their way into your home.
Myth #3: It will all
wash or blow away
If you use the wrong kind of organic mulch in the wrong
place it can migrate. But with a little understanding of different mulch types, this can be avoided. Most wood mulches
available on the market are chipped flat and consistent in shape in size. These
are great in areas that will receive some foot traffic as they compact down to
a firm surface. However, in areas of higher wind exposure or periodic
inundation with water, use a mulch that is more irregularly shaped and sized as
the pieces will hold together better. Mulches made from recycled yard waste and
tree trimmings typically fit this description. Mulches made from bark tend to
be lighter and can have a tendency to migrate more readily. Above all, pay
attention to grades when using organic mulch. Design landscapes so that the finished
grade of mulched areas is below hard surfaces like sidewalks and patios. If you
use organic mulch on a slope make a small berm on top of the slope and dig in
contour swales to prevent the mulch from washing down.
Myth #4: Organic
mulches are more difficult to maintain
Anyone who has wheelbarrowed out a graveled landscape,
sifted it to remove dirt and weeds, and shoveled it back in can tell you that
gravel is not inherently easier to maintain. Gravel landscapes with filter
fabric are designed to be maintained with a regime of consistent weed
management and treatment. If spraying chemicals in your landscape is not your thing, then invest in the right
tools to make weed
management simple. A 3-4” layer of organic mulch is effective in preventing
sunlight from reaching annual weed seeds, thereby preventing weed germination.
The beauty of organic mulches is that they can visually
accommodate a little bit of leaf litter, reducing the need for constant raking
and blowing. A thin top coat of mulch added every other year will keep your
landscape looking fresh and replace the material that has broken down to
sustain the soil. Organic mulches are light weight, too, making them easy to
wheelbarrow and rake around.
Organic mulches are available in bags from most local garden centers, and are available in bulk from several retailers in the Albuquerque area. When you buy from local bulk retailers, you are supporting the recycling of local organic materials that may otherwise end up wasting away in a landfill and contributing to greenhouse gas emissions. Buying bulk also means less plastic! Organic mulches are a renewable resource that will improve your landscape health and help you conserve water.
Turn on your irrigation system after the last chance of freezing temperatures has passed (typically late March in the greater Albuquerque area, but possibly as late as mid-April). This will prevent damage to your irrigation system.
1. Turn on your irrigation system. Then observe and listen.
If you turned off the main valve for your irrigation system over the winter to prevent freezing, turn it back on slowly, only part way. Then wait a few minutes until the system is fully pressurized. If it is not leaking, turn it fully on.
Caution: turning it too fast can create a water-hammer which could break pipes.
Irrigation valve box with backflow preventers.
Check the backflow preventer for leaks by inspecting it and checking for wetness.
Open the valve box (it usually has a green cover) and make sure there is no water in the box itself. Look for leaks in the valves, connections, filters and pressure reducers.
Run each zone for several minutes (long enough to see every part of it up close). Walk along each irrigation system pipe and inspect all sprinkler, bubbler and/or drip zones.
For sprinklers:
Look for signs of a leak, such as at the risers to the heads, the heads themselves, the emitter lines, or the pipes.
Look for heads not spraying correctly, such as spraying in the wrong direction, spraying too low, or other signs of breakage or misalignment. It is very common for them to go out of alignment when the system was turned off for the winter.
Spray head with minor leak
For drip and bubbler systems:
Look for missing emitters and/or bubblers. Emitters or bubblers may be hard to see due to plant coverage so listen carefully. Hearing a whooshing sound means an emitter or emitter line has blown off.
Drip emitter
2. Re-check the valve boxes again for water leaks now that the system has been on for testing.
3. Perform any necessary repairs and re-check for leaks after repairs are complete.
4. Set the timer.
Typical Irrigation Timer
The key to irrigation is to supply enough water to replace evaporative
losses from the ground root areas and from the leaves or stems. Too much or too
little water can harm your plants. It
is important that you set the timer correctly.
Follow the water recommendations guide to help you set your timer. Mixed zones like lawns and desert friendly landscapes are hard to water together. They usually need different run times. Large trees do not do as well being watered as if they were a lawn. Lawns have shallow roots (1” to 6” is typical) so usually need less water per application than trees with their deep roots (up to 24”). They require longer, deeper watering. Sign up for a FREE Efficient Irrigation Consultation at 505-289-3003 for help with your timer settings.
Do not confuse start times with zone numbers. Remember that every start time (4 am, 11 am, 5 pm….) on a program (A, B, C…) will run all your zones in series for the program you are running.
Attach a written copy of your schedule showing programs, zone number and corresponding location to the inside of your controller box.
Sprinkler heads or emitters vary greatly as to how much water comes out per minute. A slow watering head may need 2 to 4 times the watering time of traditional faster water delivery heads. For example, emitters can be as low as ½ gallon per hour but could be as high as 14 gallons per hour. The same watering time will not work for all zones or all emitter types.
Bubblers typically deliver 1 or 2 gallons per minute, compared to emitters that can be 1 or 2 gallons per hour. Many people over water when using bubblers for small plants. If you see pooling, run-off or recognize the flow is too fast, then replace the bubbler with a smaller one.
After watering, test to see if you provided enough, too little, or about right amount of water to the plants. Use a soil probe or a long screwdriver to test soil moisture. Push the screwdriver into the soil about an hour after you’ve watered your plants. It will go easily into moist soil. Mark and measure how far it went into the ground. That will tell you how deep you have watered that plant. Every yard is different, but once you figure out how long it takes your watering system to water to certain depths, you’ll be set.
If your controller is getting old, you would be wise to install an up to date one. There are lots of options. Some are “smart” controllers and can do many irrigation tasks well and can be operated from your phone or home computer, allowing you anywhere, anytime control. Check out the Irrigation Efficiency Rebates here to help you with the cost.
5. Observe your irrigation system the first month of the season.
We suggest the run times for the first few weeks should be during times of day where you can observe the operation of the system. When you are sure everything is running well, then you can have the system run at times you would not normally be observing. However, we suggest manually running the system zones for a few minutes every two months just to stay on top of any problems that may occur.
Many homeowners want to put a lot of water on at the beginning of the year to make sure the dry roots from the winter get thoroughly soaked. This makes some sense for the first watering of the year. Once the roots are soaked, you can go to shorter run times and number of runs per week to adequately irrigate your plants.
If you are uncertain about the any of the start-up tips, or need help, contact us for FREE Irrigation Efficiency Consultations at 505-289-3003. Or consider hiring a landscape contractor to help you get your system up and running correctly.
Author: Richard Chapman of Smart Use in Albuquerque, NM.
