Basics about Turf Grasses for New Mexico

Basics about Turf Grasses for New Mexico

Many homeowners would like a turf grass lawn, but might feel irresponsible watering a lawn in the arid Southwest. The key to choosing a turf grass is to determine the one most suited to the specific needs of your landscape.

There are two different categories of turf grasses: cool season and warm season. Cool season grasses are Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass and tall fescue. These are cold tolerant, green most of the year, and hold up to extensive amounts of foot traffic. But they use a lot of water. Warm season grasses are Bermuda grass, blue grama, and buffalo grass. Warm season grasses have a shorter growing season. This means they green up in mid Spring, are low maintenance, and require less water than cool season grasses. But blue grama and buffalo grass can’t take extensive foot traffic.

Grasses should not be selected solely on perceived water use. Depending on the purpose and function of the turf area, traffic tolerance, recuperative ability, maintenance and aesthetic appearance should also be considered.

Four Turf Grasses for Albuquerque

Park Blend grass, a combination of Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and tall fescue

PARK BLEND: The most popular turf grass lawn here, used by the City of Albuquerque and homeowners alike, is Park Blend. Park Blend combines all the cool season grasses into a blend of Kentucky bluegrass, ryegrass and tall fescue, taking advantage of the positive attributes of all three grasses in one turf. Park Blend performs beautifully through warm summers and is especially well-suited to New Mexico's growing conditions. While it does need about 37"- 41" inches of water a year, this is a great choice for a lawn that will receive a lot of traffic. It does require regular mowing and weed control.

Buffalo grass, Bouteloua dactyloides

BUFFALO GRASS: Choose warm season buffalo grass for a beautiful low growing, low water and low maintenance grass. It will handle light traffic, rarely requires mowing and uses around 24" - 28" inches of water a year.

Bermuda grass, Cynodon ‘PWIN04S’ Dog Tuff

BERMUDA GRASS: Bermuda grass is a great choice for a low water, low maintenance grass with medium foot traffic. The downside is that it does spread prolifically via runners. It is best to surround this grass with an 8-inch-wide and deep edger to keep it in check. Bermuda grass uses about 22 - 26 inches of water a year and requires a few mowings a year.

Blue grama grass, Bouteloua gracilis

BLUE GRAMA GRASS: Choose blue grama grass for a stunning native meadow look. It can be seeded with wildflowers for a beautiful spring and summer appearance. Keep the eyelash like seed heads on the grass through the fall and winter for both aesthetics and wildlife appeal. This grass uses about 18 - 20 inches of water a year. Trim and dethatch once in late winter for best appearance.

PRO TIPS: prepare the soil well before planting turf grasses, water early in the morning or late evening, keep grasses to a mow height of 3-4" so the soil stays cooler, service the irrigation system regularly to check for efficiency.

Author: Jill Brown, ASLA Landscape Architect and owner of My Landscape Coach in Albuquerque, NM. Resources: Turfgrass irrigation Circular 660 Bernd Leinauer, Professor and Extension Turfgrass Specialist NM State University, Growing the Southwest Garden by Judith Phillips, High Country Gardens, Plants of the Southwest. Even more resources about turfgrasses can be found over at NMSU.

Watering Recommendations: May 2019

Albuquerque area continues to have a great rainy spring season with precipitation reaching up to .75” (twice) in some areas during the month of April. So far we’ve conserved 450 million gallons this year and the precipitation outlook is looking great!

Follow the Spring Watering Recommendations below for your landscape.

Remember to SERVICE your irrigation system regularly and ajust your watering SETTINGS according to the Watering Recommendations above.

4 Common Myths about Organic Mulch

4 Common Myths about Organic Mulch

Experienced gardeners in New Mexico know that the key to
success is in the soil. Soils in our climate are highly erosive and without
care will blow away with spring winds or wash out during summer monsoons.
Covering bare soil with mulch is an essential gardening practice with benefits like
reducing moisture loss through evaporation, suppressing weeds, and giving
landscapes a finished appearance. When you use organic mulches (as opposed to a
gravel type mulch), there are even more benefits. Like keeping the soil cool, improving
soil structure, and feeding the soil microbiology that supports plant health.

Despite the benefits, organic mulches continue to be passed
over for gravel in our area. This is due in part to our tendency to mimic the
practices we see around us. But those are not always best practices! This is
also a consequence of several myths that we’d like to dispel.

Before digging into these myths, let’s take a moment to
define the term “organic mulch.” A mulch is a layer of material placed on top
of the soil. An organic mulch is
one that is derived from living matter. The term “organic” in this context has
no relationship to the standards followed to generate the material. Examples of
locally available organic mulches are wood mulch, bark mulch, pecan shell
mulch, and straw. Because organic mulches were once alive, they contain
essential nutrients, minerals, and energy that nourish the soil ecosystem as
they decompose. An important consideration when using organic mulches is to
skip the landscape fabric, which prevents the rich organic matter created by
decomposition from working its way back into the soil.

Myth #1: Organic
mulches rob your soil of nitrogen

This is a common misconception that is easily dispelled.
Organics decompose via microorganisms that use nitrogen as they undergo
explosive reproduction in response to a new food source. This is why we say
that nitrogen gets “tied up” in the soil when unaged composts are integrated.
But therein lies the key. Mulches are not integrated into the soil - they lie
on top of it! By definition, decomposition only occurs on the surface area of
the material being decomposed. Therefore, plant roots do not compete for
nutrients with the microorganisms that are slowly breaking down the organic
mulch to feed the soil below.

Myth #2: You’re going
to attract all kinds of insects and vermin

The cool, moist environment created by organic mulches is
ideal for promoting plant health. Gravel mulches increase the reflective heat
in a landscape and compact the soil, contributing to plant stress. Heat also creates
higher water demand. The cool, moist layer that is so good for plant health
also provides a hospitable environment for insects. But mulch itself is not a
beacon for the insects in the neighborhood to colonize your yard. It simply
provides a more favorable habitat for
what is already there. But this environment also benefits insects and
vertebrates that predate on the undesirable ones. This creates a healthier
ecosystem that supports your plantings. If you have concerns about termites,
rest assured that a mulch layer does not provide the necessary habitat for a
termite colony. A one-foot bare space between organic mulches and your house
will discourage insects from finding their way into your home.

Myth #3: It will all
wash or blow away

If you use the wrong kind of organic mulch in the wrong
place it can migrate. But with a little understanding of different mulch types, this can be avoided. Most wood mulches
available on the market are chipped flat and consistent in shape in size. These
are great in areas that will receive some foot traffic as they compact down to
a firm surface. However, in areas of higher wind exposure or periodic
inundation with water, use a mulch that is more irregularly shaped and sized as
the pieces will hold together better. Mulches made from recycled yard waste and
tree trimmings typically fit this description. Mulches made from bark tend to
be lighter and can have a tendency to migrate more readily. Above all, pay
attention to grades when using organic mulch. Design landscapes so that the finished
grade of mulched areas is below hard surfaces like sidewalks and patios. If you
use organic mulch on a slope make a small berm on top of the slope and dig in
contour swales to prevent the mulch from washing down.

Myth #4: Organic
mulches are more difficult to maintain

Anyone who has wheelbarrowed out a graveled landscape,
sifted it to remove dirt and weeds, and shoveled it back in can tell you that
gravel is not inherently easier to maintain. Gravel landscapes with filter
fabric are designed to be maintained with a regime of consistent weed
management and treatment. If spraying chemicals in your landscape is not your thing, then invest in the right
tools to make weed
management simple
. A 3-4” layer of organic mulch is effective in preventing
sunlight from reaching annual weed seeds, thereby preventing weed germination.

The beauty of organic mulches is that they can visually
accommodate a little bit of leaf litter, reducing the need for constant raking
and blowing. A thin top coat of mulch added every other year will keep your
landscape looking fresh and replace the material that has broken down to
sustain the soil. Organic mulches are light weight, too, making them easy to
wheelbarrow and rake around.

Organic mulches are available in bags from most local garden centers, and are available in bulk from several retailers in the Albuquerque area. When you buy from local bulk retailers, you are supporting the recycling of local organic materials that may otherwise end up wasting away in a landfill and contributing to greenhouse gas emissions. Buying bulk also means less plastic! Organic mulches are a renewable resource that will improve your landscape health and help you conserve water.

Photo Courtesy of Jim Brooks with Soilutions.

Author: Paulina Aguilera-Eaton, Water Conservation Specialist with Albuquerque Bernalillo Water Utility Authority.

Simple Irrigation Maintenance Techniques

Simple Irrigation Maintenance Techniques

What should every home owner know about simple irrigation maintenance?

The most important thing is to visually inspect your system periodically. Usually, irrigation runs during the middle of the night and we’re unaware of how well (or how poorly) it’s working. Turn on each zone and observe its operation. Look for leaks in your valve boxes – if there’s water in the box, you probably have a leak.

With sprinklers:

Look for broken or tilted heads and nozzles that should be adjusted to address overspray. If water continues to drain from one of your sprinklers after the zone has shut down, you may have a low head drainage problem. To fix this, install a simple check valve, which typically screws into the lower part of the sprinkler head. Ask your local irrigation supplier for a check valve recommended for your situation.

With drip irrigation:

How to unclog your button or flag emitters.

Button emitters are not easy to unclog. Often, it’s easiest to simply remove a clogged button emitter and replace it.

Flag emitters can be unclogged as follows:

  1. While water is flowing through the emitter, twist the colored flag piece located on top of the emitter so that it can be removed.
  2. Allow water to flow out the top of the emitter for 10-15 seconds with the flag piece removed.
  3. Block flow from the top of the emitter to send water through the side orifice for 10-15 seconds.
  4. Twist the flag piece back into place to resume typical irrigation (not pictured).

How to add an emitter?

  1. Using a punch tool, make a hole where you will connect the spaghetti tubing
  2. Attach the spaghetti tubing to the lateral line using a barbed connector
  3. Run the spaghetti tubing through a small trench to where you want the emitter to apply water – at the dripline of the plant is usually best

How to repair a poly tube if it's been punctured?

  1. Locate the damaged section of poly
  2. Cut out the damaged section
  3. Use a fitting – there are many types that will work – to join the ends

What is a goof plug and how to install it?

  1. It’s a simple, 2-sided plastic piece used to plug a small opening in drip irrigation lines

Goof plugs can be used to stop water flow through spaghetti tubing, as follows:

  1. Locate tubing to plug (cut off emitter if necessary)
  2. Twist small end of goof plug into spaghetti tubing opening
  3. Enjoy your water conservation!

Goof plugs can be used to stop water flow through distribution line, as follows:

  1. Locate tubing to plug
  2. Twist large end of goof plug into distribution line

Using these few simple tricks, you can easily manipulate water flow in your landscape for maximum system efficiency.

Author: Laura Ferenchak, Irrigation Efficiency Specialist with Albuquerque Bernalillo County Water Utility Authority 

Dwarf Butterfly Bush, Buddleia davidii nanhoensis

Dwarf Butterfly Bush, Buddleia davidii nanhoensis

Exposure: Sun / Shade

Water: Medium

Mature Size (H x W): 5’ x 5’

Blooming Season: June - September

Flower Color: Purple

Region: All areas of Greater Albuquerque

Noted for its ability to handle alkaline soils, the Dwarf Butterfly Bush is a magnet for its namesake garden visitors, including the majestic Monarch. Some gardeners consider these the absolute best plants for attracting butterflies (though Asclepias is a strong contender for that award), as they are known to attract as many as 25 North American butterfly species. Panicles nearly 6” long emit a light fragrance vaguely reminiscent of honey, and produce a nectar that attracts not only butterflies, but hummingbirds!

Like most plants, the Dwarf Butterfly Bush is most susceptible to pests and disease if stressed by drought. Irrigate these plants according to our Watering Guidelines (look to the middle of the range recommended for shrub irrigation frequency). Tolerant of urban pollution, this plant prefers well-drained soils. To best take advantage of the fragrant flowers, locate these in groups along a path or near a window or porch, or in the front of a bed where their petite size can be appreciated. And take heart, these will not require pruning like the standard Butterfly Bush.

In recent years, breeders have produced plants with a variety of flower colors and mature sizes. Look for cultivars including “Nanho Blue,” which has mauve-blue flowers, and “Nanho Purple,” which has a more traditional, distinctively purple flower. Enjoy a cascade of flowers from June to September.

Photo Courtesy of Hunter Ten Broeck with WaterWise Landscapes Inc.