Easy Pollinator Gardening

Easy Pollinator Gardening

Everything in nature is connected. Fostering the connections keeps ecosystems and gardens vital. And weaving pollinator essentials together into a beautiful garden is a fun process. Start by thinking about where you will view the garden from as well as how you’ll move through the space to view pollinator activity without disrupting your winged guests. Organize the largest and thirstiest plants around rainwater harvesting opportunities such as gutters or canales, and use pathways to divide larger spaces into smaller planting areas like herb gardens, wildflower beds and native shrub borders. Include the essentials of food, shelter and water in your garden and your pollinators will thrive.

Among the insects and birds that pollinate plants, bees are the primary work force. There are 1000+ kinds of native bees in New Mexico, as well as honey bees that assist plants in producing seeds. Butterflies and moths are less efficient pollinators than bees, and many have key relationships with specific plants: Monarchs butterflies with milkweeds and hawkmoths with evening primroses. Beetles, bats and hummingbirds are also nectar drinkers and pollinators.

Plants expend energy to produce showy flowers to attract pollinators. In exchange for distributing the pollen needed to fertilize the flowers so the plants can reproduce, the pollinator feeds on the energy-rich nectar. The shapes and colors of flowers determine who will pollinate them. Butterflies can’t hover to feed, so they need open-faced flowers with places to land, like daisies and roses. Hummingbirds and hawkmoths are able to hover while they probe tubular flowers for their nectar and pollen. Plants with inconspicuous flowers are often wind-pollinated, like native grasses, but are still part of the pollinator support system. Their leaves feed many larval stage insects.

If you are new to the neighborhood, survey plants nearby for pollinator activity and plant some of the busiest ones. If you already have plants in your garden that are abuzz with pollinators, think about replacing any plants that are shirking their habitat role with ones that are better hosts. Choose plants that are rich in nectar and well-adapted and watch your garden become a surprise party buzzing with energy.

  • Food sources include flower nectar for sugar and essential amino acids, pollen for protein, and leaves as larval food. Native grasses are especially valuable as caterpillar food. Plan to include food sources throughout the seasons that pollinators are active.
  • Shelter includes layers of canopy from taller trees, mid-height shrubs and groundcovers (knee high and shorter). Leave some dead snags as hummingbird roosts and for bee nesting. Leave leaf litter in some places and keep some open soil in out of the way areas for ground nesting insect habitat. Cluster plants in masses of varied heights and densities as cover. Plans for bee hotels and ready-made bee and bat nesting boxes are easy to find and build. Check nature center gift shops and online for ready-made nesting boxes.
  • A small, trickling water feature as a source of drinking and bathing water for insects and birds should have shallow edges to avoid drowning bees. An extra drip emitter in fine stone mulch or bare ground is a good water source for bees and puddling place for butterflies.
  • Eliminate pesticides and herbicides. You don’t wan to attract pollinators just to poison them! Your health will benefit, too.

The greater the variety of plants, the greater diversity of pollinators will visit. Plant for a seasonal progression of blooms. It takes at least 100 sq. ft. of the same flower to consistently attract pollinators (think a 5-foot-tall and wide fernbush or butterfly bush or a 10-foot x 10-foot wildflower or herb bed space). So if your neighbor has a swath of red valerian, plant a few but use more of your space for sunflowers, mistflower, yarrow, beebalm, salvias, penstemon, oregano, fennel, whorled butterfly weed or native buckwheats. Pollinators don’t recognize property lines so the more neighbors who garden for pollinators, the richer your neighborhood will become in pollinators. Avoid hybrid flowers, especially varieties with double flowers since those plants may produce little or no nectar or pollen.

Opuntia englemannii with bee. Photo by Judith Phillips

There are public pollinator gardens in Albuquerque:

  • Rio Grande Botanic Gardens on Central Ave at New York NW
  • El Oso Grande Pollinator Habitat at the east end of El Oso Grande Park on Osuna Road @ Morris NE
  • Albuquerque Garden Clubs Garden Center in Los Altos Park on Lomas just west of Eubank

Author: Judith Phillips, owner of Design Oasis, landscape designer and garden writer with 30 years experience designing arid-adapted and native gardens in the high desert.

Watering Recommendations: June 2019

Albuquerque area continues to receive rains with precipitation reaching up to .50” in some areas during the month of May.  As we move to summer months, we encourage customers to follow the Summer Watering Recommendations to maintain healthy landscapes during the hotter months of the year. So far we’ve conserved 800 million gallons this year and the precipitation outlook for the summer months is looking great!

Remember to Service your irrigation system at least once per month checking for leaks and malfunctions, a single broken sprinkler head flowing at 15 gallons per minute will waste 900 gallons in one hour of use.

Follow the Summer Watering Recommendations below for your landscape.

How do I know how deeply I’m watering my plants?


Testing the soil moisture with a long screwdriver.

Use a soil probe or a long screwdriver to test soil moisture. Push the screwdriver into the soil 24 hours after you’ve watered your plants. It will go easily into moist soil. Mark and measure how far it went into the ground. That will tell you how deep you have watered that plant. Every yard is different, but once you figure out how long it takes your watering system to water to certain depths, you’ll be set.

Basics about Turf Grasses for New Mexico

Basics about Turf Grasses for New Mexico

Many homeowners would like a turf grass lawn, but might feel irresponsible watering a lawn in the arid Southwest. The key to choosing a turf grass is to determine the one most suited to the specific needs of your landscape.

There are two different categories of turf grasses: cool season and warm season. Cool season grasses are Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass and tall fescue. These are cold tolerant, green most of the year, and hold up to extensive amounts of foot traffic. But they use a lot of water. Warm season grasses are Bermuda grass, blue grama, and buffalo grass. Warm season grasses have a shorter growing season. This means they green up in mid Spring, are low maintenance, and require less water than cool season grasses. But blue grama and buffalo grass can’t take extensive foot traffic.

Grasses should not be selected solely on perceived water use. Depending on the purpose and function of the turf area, traffic tolerance, recuperative ability, maintenance and aesthetic appearance should also be considered.

Four Turf Grasses for Albuquerque

Park Blend grass, a combination of Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and tall fescue

PARK BLEND: The most popular turf grass lawn here, used by the City of Albuquerque and homeowners alike, is Park Blend. Park Blend combines all the cool season grasses into a blend of Kentucky bluegrass, ryegrass and tall fescue, taking advantage of the positive attributes of all three grasses in one turf. Park Blend performs beautifully through warm summers and is especially well-suited to New Mexico's growing conditions. While it does need about 37"- 41" inches of water a year, this is a great choice for a lawn that will receive a lot of traffic. It does require regular mowing and weed control.

Buffalo grass, Bouteloua dactyloides

BUFFALO GRASS: Choose warm season buffalo grass for a beautiful low growing, low water and low maintenance grass. It will handle light traffic, rarely requires mowing and uses around 24" - 28" inches of water a year.

Bermuda grass, Cynodon ‘PWIN04S’ Dog Tuff

BERMUDA GRASS: Bermuda grass is a great choice for a low water, low maintenance grass with medium foot traffic. The downside is that it does spread prolifically via runners. It is best to surround this grass with an 8-inch-wide and deep edger to keep it in check. Bermuda grass uses about 22 - 26 inches of water a year and requires a few mowings a year.

Blue grama grass, Bouteloua gracilis

BLUE GRAMA GRASS: Choose blue grama grass for a stunning native meadow look. It can be seeded with wildflowers for a beautiful spring and summer appearance. Keep the eyelash like seed heads on the grass through the fall and winter for both aesthetics and wildlife appeal. This grass uses about 18 - 20 inches of water a year. Trim and dethatch once in late winter for best appearance.

PRO TIPS: prepare the soil well before planting turf grasses, water early in the morning or late evening, keep grasses to a mow height of 3-4" so the soil stays cooler, service the irrigation system regularly to check for efficiency.

Author: Jill Brown, ASLA Landscape Architect and owner of My Landscape Coach in Albuquerque, NM. Resources: Turfgrass irrigation Circular 660 Bernd Leinauer, Professor and Extension Turfgrass Specialist NM State University, Growing the Southwest Garden by Judith Phillips, High Country Gardens, Plants of the Southwest. Even more resources about turfgrasses can be found over at NMSU.

Watering Recommendations: May 2019

Albuquerque area continues to have a great rainy spring season with precipitation reaching up to .75” (twice) in some areas during the month of April. So far we’ve conserved 450 million gallons this year and the precipitation outlook is looking great!

Follow the Spring Watering Recommendations below for your landscape.

Remember to SERVICE your irrigation system regularly and ajust your watering SETTINGS according to the Watering Recommendations above.