Creating living shade with vines

Creating living shade with vines

While it is fantastic living in the Southwest where the sun shines over 310 days a year, sometimes landscapes and homeowners alike crave shade. Large trees provide great shade but may take a long time to grow. So to create fast shade for patios and windows, choose vines. Luckily many vines grow well in Albuquerque, including evergreen vines, flowering vines, fruiting vines and many more. Below are four favorites of 505Outside for the Albuquerque area.

1. Wisteria, Wisteria sinensis: The pendulous lavender flowers of this vine are some of the first to bloom in the spring. Bright green leaves follow shortly thereafter, filling up the plant and creating lots of dappled shade below. Once the flowers fade, the leaves fill in to provide dense shade in the summer. Prepare for wisteria vines to get woody over time. Strategic training of the stems is also recommended. Wisteria grows well in sun, shade and part shade. Mature height and spread are 25’ to 30’ x 25’ to 40’.

Wisteria growing over a front door trellis.

2. Lady Banks Rose, Rosa banksiae: Rarely do you find a plant that is fast growing, evergreen and long-lived. Lady Banks Rose is all those things, and it produces a beautiful if brief show of flowers in spring. And it uses surprisingly little water. This plant grows large and, unlike most roses, blooms on old wood.

3. Trumpet Vine, Campsis radicans: Orange and yellow trumpet-like flowers grace this beautiful deciduous vine. Train it to grow onto a shade structure. It is a fast grower but you must provide a strong enough support and enough space for this vigorous rambler.

4. Grape vines, multiple varieties: New Mexico is one of the oldest grape growing regions in North America. For covering a trellis or arbor look for vigorous growers. Grape vines like to have moist feet during the first year of establishment. Grapes will grow wild and crazy if not trained and strategically pruned during the winter months. They also need constant redirecting, so tie the vines to the trellis with twine, checking on it every other week during the growing season. These are deciduous so be prepared for a sculptural woody vista throughout the winter months.

Grape vines growing next to an outdoor patio.

Try growing any of these vines on open lattice ramadas, arbors and pergolas. While wood is the most often used material for these structures because it is simple and easy to build, in the Albuquerque climate steel is an ideal choice. Steel structures are strong, long lasting and maintenance free. No matter what material you choose, creating living shade with vines can be rewarding.

Author: Jill Brown, ASLA Landscape Architect and owner of My Landscape Coach in Albuquerque, NM.
Resources: Down to Earth, A Gardener's Guide to the Albuquerque Area by Albuquerque Area Extension Master Gardeners. Growing the Southwest Garden and New Mexico's Gardener's Guide by Judith Phillips.
Butterfly Weed, Asclepias tuberosa

Butterfly Weed, Asclepias tuberosa

Exposure: Sun / Shade

Water: Medium

Mature Size (H x W): 2’ x 2’

Blooming Season: June - September

Flower Color: Orange

Region: All parts of Greater Albuquerque

A must-have for all Monarch butterfly enthusiasts, this cheerful, easy perennial has a place in most gardens. Use it in rainwater swales, perennial beds, or cutting gardens. Native to most parts of North America, it does well in poor, dry soils. The flowers provide an important nectar source for Monarch butterflies, and the leaves are food for Monarch caterpillars.

Look for plants grown from local stock, which are better adapted to the desert than plants propagated from cooler, wetter parts of the country. Prune the first flowers in summer to encourage a longer blooming season. Spread these plants out in the garden; greater concentrations of the plants draw more predators to the caterpillars. Don’t be alarmed if your plants attract aphids – high quality habitat brings with it a greater diversity of insects, which are not necessarily harmful to the plants or to the Butterfly weed. (A mild solution of soap and water can be applied to treat the aphids.)

Water every two weeks while blooming. If planted in a shadier location, Butterfly weed will need less water. Leave the stems and dried seed pods intact over the winter and then trim to the ground in early spring. The silky fluff in the seed pods looks beautiful when backlit.

Easy Pollinator Gardening

Easy Pollinator Gardening

Everything in nature is connected. Fostering the connections keeps ecosystems and gardens vital. And weaving pollinator essentials together into a beautiful garden is a fun process. Start by thinking about where you will view the garden from as well as how you’ll move through the space to view pollinator activity without disrupting your winged guests. Organize the largest and thirstiest plants around rainwater harvesting opportunities such as gutters or canales, and use pathways to divide larger spaces into smaller planting areas like herb gardens, wildflower beds and native shrub borders. Include the essentials of food, shelter and water in your garden and your pollinators will thrive.

Among the insects and birds that pollinate plants, bees are the primary work force. There are 1000+ kinds of native bees in New Mexico, as well as honey bees that assist plants in producing seeds. Butterflies and moths are less efficient pollinators than bees, and many have key relationships with specific plants: Monarchs butterflies with milkweeds and hawkmoths with evening primroses. Beetles, bats and hummingbirds are also nectar drinkers and pollinators.

Plants expend energy to produce showy flowers to attract pollinators. In exchange for distributing the pollen needed to fertilize the flowers so the plants can reproduce, the pollinator feeds on the energy-rich nectar. The shapes and colors of flowers determine who will pollinate them. Butterflies can’t hover to feed, so they need open-faced flowers with places to land, like daisies and roses. Hummingbirds and hawkmoths are able to hover while they probe tubular flowers for their nectar and pollen. Plants with inconspicuous flowers are often wind-pollinated, like native grasses, but are still part of the pollinator support system. Their leaves feed many larval stage insects.

If you are new to the neighborhood, survey plants nearby for pollinator activity and plant some of the busiest ones. If you already have plants in your garden that are abuzz with pollinators, think about replacing any plants that are shirking their habitat role with ones that are better hosts. Choose plants that are rich in nectar and well-adapted and watch your garden become a surprise party buzzing with energy.

  • Food sources include flower nectar for sugar and essential amino acids, pollen for protein, and leaves as larval food. Native grasses are especially valuable as caterpillar food. Plan to include food sources throughout the seasons that pollinators are active.
  • Shelter includes layers of canopy from taller trees, mid-height shrubs and groundcovers (knee high and shorter). Leave some dead snags as hummingbird roosts and for bee nesting. Leave leaf litter in some places and keep some open soil in out of the way areas for ground nesting insect habitat. Cluster plants in masses of varied heights and densities as cover. Plans for bee hotels and ready-made bee and bat nesting boxes are easy to find and build. Check nature center gift shops and online for ready-made nesting boxes.
  • A small, trickling water feature as a source of drinking and bathing water for insects and birds should have shallow edges to avoid drowning bees. An extra drip emitter in fine stone mulch or bare ground is a good water source for bees and puddling place for butterflies.
  • Eliminate pesticides and herbicides. You don’t wan to attract pollinators just to poison them! Your health will benefit, too.

The greater the variety of plants, the greater diversity of pollinators will visit. Plant for a seasonal progression of blooms. It takes at least 100 sq. ft. of the same flower to consistently attract pollinators (think a 5-foot-tall and wide fernbush or butterfly bush or a 10-foot x 10-foot wildflower or herb bed space). So if your neighbor has a swath of red valerian, plant a few but use more of your space for sunflowers, mistflower, yarrow, beebalm, salvias, penstemon, oregano, fennel, whorled butterfly weed or native buckwheats. Pollinators don’t recognize property lines so the more neighbors who garden for pollinators, the richer your neighborhood will become in pollinators. Avoid hybrid flowers, especially varieties with double flowers since those plants may produce little or no nectar or pollen.

Opuntia englemannii with bee. Photo by Judith Phillips

There are public pollinator gardens in Albuquerque:

  • Rio Grande Botanic Gardens on Central Ave at New York NW
  • El Oso Grande Pollinator Habitat at the east end of El Oso Grande Park on Osuna Road @ Morris NE
  • Albuquerque Garden Clubs Garden Center in Los Altos Park on Lomas just west of Eubank

Author: Judith Phillips, owner of Design Oasis, landscape designer and garden writer with 30 years experience designing arid-adapted and native gardens in the high desert.

Watering Recommendations: June 2019

Albuquerque area continues to receive rains with precipitation reaching up to .50” in some areas during the month of May.  As we move to summer months, we encourage customers to follow the Summer Watering Recommendations to maintain healthy landscapes during the hotter months of the year. So far we’ve conserved 800 million gallons this year and the precipitation outlook for the summer months is looking great!

Remember to Service your irrigation system at least once per month checking for leaks and malfunctions, a single broken sprinkler head flowing at 15 gallons per minute will waste 900 gallons in one hour of use.

Follow the Summer Watering Recommendations below for your landscape.

How do I know how deeply I’m watering my plants?


Testing the soil moisture with a long screwdriver.

Use a soil probe or a long screwdriver to test soil moisture. Push the screwdriver into the soil 24 hours after you’ve watered your plants. It will go easily into moist soil. Mark and measure how far it went into the ground. That will tell you how deep you have watered that plant. Every yard is different, but once you figure out how long it takes your watering system to water to certain depths, you’ll be set.