As gardeners or homeowners, we plant what we plant for a wide variety of reasons: Our neighbors have it. The homeowner’s association list includes it. We see it around town or in the nurseries or garden centers that we visit. Though often big box stores order the same plants for New Mexico as they do for Arizona and California. Unless we are a landscape or horticulture professional, we often make choices based on what we see around us.
We live in a desert environment where water is precious and getting more so as the population grows and resources shrink. Climate and soil conditions that are poor and alkaline also affect what plants thrive in our area. Forty to fifty years ago the plants listed below were commonly used because they were the only plants available at the nurseries. Today through the diligent work of the local horticulture industry and local demand we now have many more plant alternatives that are better suited, less finicky and require less water.
Here are a few plants we may want to reconsider before adding them to our landscapes.
Japanese maple: Who doesn’t love the graceful form and fine texture of this beautiful small tree? However, this plant needs shade and quite a bit of water, which many of our gardens have in short supply. They prefer acidic soil, while ours is alkaline. Without adding lots of organic material and copious amounts of irrigation, they struggle in most gardens, with leaf margins burned and dry by summer’s end. Alternatives: Purple Smoke Tree, Mexican Elderberry
Leaf scorch from sun exposure on Japanese maple.
Aspen: These belong in the high mountains, where temperatures are cooler, moisture is more plentiful and eons of leaf litter have enriched the soil. It is not fond of heat and likes lots of water. This tree looks best in its naturally occurring zone. Some aspen 30-plus years old can be found around town, but they are few and far between. Alternatives: New Mexico Olive (white bark) or the Jujube (multi trunked tall and skinny)
Boxwood: While an old favorite for clipped hedges (which we don’t recommend doing for any shrub) and its evergreen presence, boxwood is out of place in our high desert climate. Like many frequently used plants, this one was brought here by transplanted humans who longed for what they knew from a home somewhere else, with soil and water conditions much more favorable to this species, like England. Alternatives:Leucophyllum,lavender, Turpentine bush, rosemary
Barberry: Like boxwood, this is another old favorite from the East Coast. With many varieties, it has been long used, but ultimately not always long lived due to its soil and water preferences that don’t match ours. Alternatives: Fernbush, Ephedra, winter Jasmine, cotoneasters, leucophyllum.
Euonymus: Used for its mostly evergreen nature and variety of color and form, this plant can struggle here. Prone to scale insect infestations and drought dieback, this plant can be more demanding of care and chemicals than many people wish to offer. Alternatives:Greenleaf santolina, Turpentine bush, Pancho manzanita.
Green ash (or ash in general): Ash trees became one of the most widely planted species in the 1970s and 1980s. We have since learned that not all are hardy to the infrequent but deadly low temperatures that some winters bring. Worse, though, is the increasing threat from the invasive emerald ash borer, a beetle that is devastating this tree species across the country. Preferring plentiful water and improved soil, this tree is not happy here for long. Alternatives:Common Hackberry,Frontier elm, Lacebark Elm
Stress, disease and insufficient water damage on green ash.
Magnolia: This tree is happiest in warmer, milder climates where rich soil, nutrition and rainfall are in good supply, none of which is the norm here. It prefers acidic soils so existing ones may need acid treatment to keep healthy. Alternatives: Arizona Rosewood
Heavenly bamboo: Often not given the water it needs to be happy, this plant can look sparse and burned at the edges. If not pruned regularly, it can become straggly and top heavy. In some parts of the country, the berries appear to be toxic to birds that feed on them. Alternatives: Big Bluestem,Maximillian sunflower, Indian ricegrass
Ponderosa pine: This native mountain tree can struggle at our elevation without lots of water, and the heat of the city can result in browning and drying of the needles. Requiring thick organic mulch under the canopy, this tree needs care and attention to succeed out of its habitat. There are great existing specimens around town. To keep existing ponderosas healthy direct rainwater towards root zone, add organic mulch, add adequate fall and winter watering in our now warm and dry winters and do not prune when the tree is stressed. Alternatives:Stone pine,Afghan pine
Heat stress and insufficient watering damage on ponderosa pine.
While many of the plants mentioned in this article can be found in local landscapes and gardens, it is usually because they were planted long ago when it was cooler and grass lawns were plentiful. Many are now receiving special care, lots of water beyond what any xeriscape would require.
There are plenty of native or desert adapted plants with similar shape, form, autumn color and pleasing texture that thrive in our specific climate that can be used in place of the plants reviewed here.
There are many sources of information, and the internet can be a dangerous place. When you look up a plant, chances are the article is based on research from the Midwest, East Coast or Pacific Northwest so it does not represent our local conditions.
Instead, look for books by local authors. Compare notes with neighbors. Check out our Xeriscape Guide for information and plant lists that are updated as we learn more about our wonderful desert home. A high desert landscape can be colorful, lovely and a home for birds, bees, butterflies and us humans who live in and care for them.
Hackberry is a medium-sized tree, known also as common hackberry or western hackberry. It has a broad upright top with ascending then arching branches. The bark is interesting with rough warty growths and a corky texture. Leaves are light green throughout the year with a little yellow fall color. The cherrylike fruits often hang on the trees throughout the winter, providing many birds with food. It can tolerate a wide range of soils, moisture conditions and harsh climates, as well as urban abuse. The roots rarely lift sidewalks, and the canopy is relatively upright, making it a good tree in tight spaces. Maintenance is minimal — prune every few years as needed during the dormant season.
Fruit that the birds enjoy on the common hackberry.
The tiny leaves and intricate branching on this sumac make for a very beautiful and dense looking shrub. Growing about 4’-8’ tall, it stands alone as a specimen plant, a companion plant or a background plant. Although it is deciduous, littleleaf sumac provides almost nine months of seasonal interest with white flowers appearing before the leaves in the spring, followed by clusters of orange red berries in late summer and ending with purplish tinted leaves in the fall. It is cold hardy to -10 degrees Pollinators enjoy the flowers and birds feed on the fruit. It is a low water use shrub so be sure to reduce the water to it after it is established, after one to two growing seasons. Maintenance is minimal — it does not need pruning but will tolerate pruning if it is used as a hedge.
Just as we take shelter when the weather turns colder, so does your yard. Below are our DIY tips for how to prepare your yard for winter.
WATERING
Water on warm days (daytime temperatures above 40 degrees and nighttime temperatures above 37 degrees).
For drip irrigation on trees and shrubs, water twice a month for 80-100 minutes per cycle.
For hose watering trees and shrubs, water twice a month for 55 minutes per cycle.
For spray watering a lawn, water eight times per month for 7-10 minutes per cycle.
For high efficiency micro rotors on a lawn, water eight times per month for 40-50 minutes per cycle.
Skip watering if it rains more than ½ an inch or snows more than 6 inches.
Special Exceptions
Newly installed plants (shrubs planted within one year) and trees (trees planted within three years) are more susceptible to damage from dry conditions and should be watered more frequently than established plants. Water new shrubs to a depth of 18” three times a month in the winter. Try watering trees to a depth of 24 inches twice a month in the winter.
Evergreen trees lose water through their needles in cold, dry winter winds faster than their roots can absorb it. They need more stored-up water going into the winter season to make up for that so, it is especially important to provide enough water in the fall and during dry, warm spells in the winter.
When watering any tree, remember to apply water out to the edge of the tree’s canopy drip line and beyond. Most established trees have a root spread equal to their height and beyond. Water deeply and avoid spraying foliage. Watering to the right depth depends on your specific soil, so you will want to measure how much time it takes water to reach 24 inches deep in your soil. Read this article for tips on measuring watering depth.
LAWNS
Cool Season Grass
Mow your lawn to 3-3.5 inches. Grass left too long over the winter can develop brown patches. Dethatch your lawn by raking it through to remove built up debris.
Rake or blow off leaves that have fallen on your lawn to avoid brown spots. Save those leaves to use as mulch around your garden and trees.
Aerate next time it is warm. Before aerating, run the irrigation and flag all your spray heads or rotors. This prevents inadvertently creating the need for sprinkler repairs! Aerate the whole lawn in one direction and then again perpendicular to the first pass.
Top dress with compost. Compost acts as a fertilizer, adds moisture retention capacity and improves overall soil and root health.
Warm Season Grass
Grass can be left at full height during winter to provide habitat.
TREES
Apply a thin layer of compost, about ½ inch, to provide nutrients.
Add 3"-4" of shredded wood chip mulch around the trees drip line but keep away from the trunk base, about 6". Mulch helps insulate the soil from temperature extremes, retains soil moisture and keeps weeds out. Treebates for bulk organic mulch are available.
IRRIGATION
Turn off your irrigation system. Cold temperatures 40 degrees or lower mean it is time to give your irrigation system a rest. To avoid damage to your system, we recommend setting it to the OFF position. Since it is important to make sure your landscape stays healthy in the winter, find a warm day once a month to irrigate. After watering, set your system to the OFF position again. Skip watering if it rains more than ½ an inch or snows more than 6 inches.
Insulate pipes and faucets in unheated areas. Wrap exposed water pipes in unheated areas (such as a garage, basement, crawl space or space beneath your mobile home) with insulation or heat tape. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
From the leafy corridors along the Rio Grande to the resilient specimens lining our streets and parks, trees are much more than just scenery — they are essential to our health, happiness and sense of place. Residents and visitors alike have come to appreciate, love and depend on Albuquerque’s urban forest, which transforms our city in countless ways.
For many, the presence of mature trees is a sign of a thriving, welcoming community.
The City of Albuquerque’s Urban Forestry staff has taken an active role in cataloging and celebrating the city’s best tree specimens. The Urban Forestry team within Parks and Recreation maintains a list of “champion trees” — remarkable individuals recognized for their size, age, beauty or historical significance.
The City of Albuquerque’s Champion Tree GIS site shows the locations of all 23 Champion trees around public spaces managed by the city and includes information on their species, size, history and unique features. To use, simply click on one of the circles to learn all about the specific tree, its properties and its location.
Whether you’re a lifelong resident or a newcomer to Albuquerque, exploring the city’s champion trees is a unique way to visit our numerous parks and streetscapes plus celebrate the trees that make our urban environment vibrant and resilient.
In addition to managing 30,000 trees across 300 city parks, Urban Forestry has launched the Let’s Plant ABQ initiative. This initiative aims to plant 100,000 trees by 2030 to provide one tree for every child as a gift from one generation to the next. To track these trees, Urban Forestry uses software called Treeplotter for inventorying, planning and growing our urban canopy. As well as tracking Champion trees, Urban Forestry maintains a robust inventory of all trees in city parks where residents are welcome to explore our urban canopy, including ecosystem benefits of our trees. Urban Forestry’s data aids in informed decision making for urban designs and developments. Understanding what we have can help us preserve and enhance our urban forest.
Let’s continue to love, depend on and protect the trees that make Albuquerque a truly special place to live. You can help by planting more new trees; check out the Water Authority’s Treebates.
