If you have a meter equipped with AMI (Advanced Metering Infrastructure) as shown in the photo above, you can log into your Water Authority account and see your hour-by-hour usage. This may help you locate any issues in your house or yard, such as a continuous water leak in toilets or irrigation systems. It can help you understand how much water you use throughout your day and serve as a guide to better decision-making in how you use your water. If you don’t have an AMI meter installed yet, it will produce an average use graph for your home.
Start by going to www.abcwua.org. Click on “My Account” in the top menu bar (shown below with a red arrow) to create an account if you haven’t done so already. You’ll need your billing information. Once you’ve created an account, you can view and pay your bills, as well as see your daily water usage.
Here is an example of the account page. We are going to focus on the “View Water Usage” section. It can take a few moments to add the dashboard information.
Initially, you will have two screens in your dashboard: “Water Usage” and “My Progress.” You can expand each one by clicking on the icon in the top left corner (red arrows). This will make the information easier to read and provide access to some additional features.
Below is a graph that provides you with a glance of your daily usage, along with the average temperature for that day. Two features highlighted in this photo are: 1) the “+” sign will change the date parameter and provide hourly usage and 2) the “PNG” feature will export your usage chart if you want to save it as a picture.
On the right-hand side, where the red arrow is, the “PDF” feature allows you to download the current month’s hourly data. An example of this is shown in the following image.
Below is an example of an hourly chart of your water usage, with the hourly temperature shown as well. Note: You can view your actual usage on each line of the graph by hovering your pointer over it. This is where you may see a possible leak if you have vertical lines (hourly usage) each hour, daily. A red arrow highlights where you would see that.
Next, we’ll look at a monthly comparison. To do this, choose “Time Period Comparison” on the left (highlighted by the red arrow). This example shows consecutive months, but you can adjust the view using the “slider” above the graph to click on the months. You can compare your usage for the same month from one year to the next. This is great if you are trying to track savings from changes in your household or irrigation.
You can add a threshold notification that will inform you when your water use passes a set amount. The threshold should start at your “normal” daily usage. So, if your normal usage in the winter is 100 gallons a day, you can add that as your threshold, and our system will notify you if you’ve gone above the threshold. This picture shows you how to add a threshold. You can add an email address or phone number to receive the notifications.
If you have more than one account that you watch over, you can go to the user profile tab and add additional account numbers to your profile.
Watch our How To Video below!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsZ1C65MQMc
Author: Amos Arber, Water Conservation Program manager. Have a question about the article on AMI reader and Home Connect? [email protected]
Growing winter veggies is a fun and valuable effort more people should experiment with in our area. In many ways, winter gardening is a lot easier than trying to garden in the summer — there are fewer pests, cooler temperatures require less watering and common winter veggie’s seeds are super easy to germinate and then cultivate. Two things are important to ensure success: the timing of starting seeds and modifying the climate to extend the season.
If you're hoping to enjoy sweet, delicious, and healthy salads and other dishes all winter long, it's important to start your seeds by the middle to late August. Unfortunately, by then, we're usually very tired of the heat and of taking care of the plants in our yards. It’s not a time we often think about starting new seeds. However, it's important to start seeds early so the plants can reach a good size before it gets cold. This is where being able to modify the climate in your garden is important on both sides of the spectrum. When starting seeds at the end of the summer and it's still hot, having some sort of shade fabric to keep things a little bit cooler makes all the difference. Later, when it starts to get cool, being able to cover your garden bed with a row cover material, sometimes called Reemay (white polyester nonwoven fabric), modifies the climate in the other direction by making it a few degrees warmer and more protected — crucial for having productive beds of kale, Swiss chard, beets, lettuce, spinach, radishes and other yummy veggies. Most of those veggies are super easy to germinate, usually popping up within a couple of days — another reason why this kind of gardening is especially fun for beginners or people feeling frustrated with starting seeds.
Winter Gardening with Hoops
Being able to walk out to your garden and harvest a colander full of fresh kale and Swiss chard is a true delight and can save a lot of money if it's something that you purchase at the store regularly. Winter gardening is easier because the temperatures are cooler and you have to water only once about every two or three weeks, December-February. Also, the cold temperatures don't allow for many pests. Some of my favorite veggies to grow in the winter are kale — I really enjoy red Russian and Dino — beets and collard greens, all of which increase in sweetness substantially once the temperatures begin to drop.
Winter bounty of Arugala
There are substantially less pests in the fall, winter, and early spring compared to the summer. Two pests that you might encounter are aphids and cabbage worms which are relatively easy to manage. Cabbage worms can be avoided by covering your plants with the row cover material to exclude the cabbage moth from laying eggs on your tender greens.
Another advantage of having hoops and shade or frost fabric is that it can protect plants from hail damage. Similarly, some people like to start their tomatoes under row covers to exclude leaf hoppers which can transfer the curly top tomato virus (Learn More in this article by NMSU.)
Creating hoops for your garden to help modify the climate and extend the season is easy to do using common materials — ½” by 10-foot lengths of PVC, 2-foot lengths of 3/8” rebar (both items can be purchased pre-cut at home improvement centers), extra-large binder clips (available at office supply stores), row cover material or shade fabric (available at some local nurseries and greenhouse supply stores), and some stones or bricks to help hold down the fabric at the edges and ends. You may also consider having loose-weave burlap to lay on the soil to facilitate seed germination and keep foraging birds at bay.
Installing hoops on rebar stakes.Clipping fabric to hoops.Hoop garden.
Other Tips:
Use burlap to help retain soil moisture between waterings and keep birds away when germinating seeds.
A thick, 3-4” layer of mulch such as straw or leaves (once seeds have germinated) is incredibly helpful for keeping moisture in the soil and regulating soil temperature.
If you have room, allow winter veggies such as arugula to flower and go to seed. Arugula flowers are beautiful and beneficial for pollinators. If left to go to seed, they also benefit birds and often result in new “volunteer” plants the following year.
You don’t need much space for a winter garden — a thriving 4’ x 8’ bed of leafy greens is plenty for a small family.
Installing hoops is simple: Pound the 3/8” rebar about 12”-14” deep, slip the ½” PVC over the rebar, clip the fabric to the PVC with extra-large binder clips and weigh down the edges and ends with stones.
A 10’ length of PVC on a 4’ wide bed makes a hoop about 4’ tall. Having a 12’ wide piece of row cover fabric allows for 1’ on each side to secure it with stones.
The ABQ Backyard Refuge Program is working with greater Albuquerque residents to create a mosaic of habitat across the city that will support a wide variety of both year-round and migrating wildlife. The program, which is managed by the Friends of Valle de Oro National Wildlife Refuge, was developed by more than 40 partners, including local government agencies, university departments and conservation organizations. The program provides resources for residents, including an introductory guide that features a list of plants that both thrive here and attract wildlife as well as a workbook for building and documenting your refuge. In addition to recruiting homeowners to build habitats in their yards, we are working with our partners to increase green space in the communities most affected by our changing climate.
Any space can be certified, including a front yard, patio, balcony, community space or, of course, a backyard. As of May 22, the program has certified about 166 acres with 629 individual and business participants. That surpasses the initial goal of certifying as many habitats as there are national wildlife refuges in the nation (572). Next, the program hopes to match Valle de Oro's 570 acres. Every bit of habitat counts!
Whether you have a balcony, a patio (where you can put potted pollinator plants) or acreage at your home, you can make changes that benefit wildlife. Here are some tips:
Leave a few dead branches in your yard, as long as they don’t pose a safety hazard. They can provide great perches for birds and food sources or potential nesting sites for woodpeckers.
Allow some leaves to stay on the ground in the fall so more butterflies are attracted to your property in the spring.
Leave dried sunflowers and grasses in your yard because they provide food for wildlife during the winter.
Plant pollinator friendly species such as sunflowers, mistflower, yarrow, beebalm, salvias, penstemon, oregano, fennel, whorled milkweed or native buckwheats.
When you certify your space as an ABQ Backyard Refuge, you are helping to encourage neighbors to build wildlife habitats. As a member of the certification program, you will receive a metal sign with stickers that show your certification level.
The sign can be a conversation starter with your neighbors and help the program grow.
You undoubtedly have seen your neighbors and friends around town removing their grass lawns and replacing them with water efficient desert friendly xeriscapes. You may yourself be interested in doing the same with your yard but perhaps are overwhelmed by the tasks or concerned about how much it would cost. Don’t fret, it’s much simpler than you think. We’re walking you through the six steps to transform your lawn into a beautiful desert friendly xeriscape.
STEP 1
COME UP WITH A DESIGN, then apply for the $3-a-square-foot rebate.
No need to get overwhelmed by this step. You know your yard best, so observe and understand how you want to use your space. Brainstorm elements you want to include. Take into account existing plants and trees, views you want to preserve or hide, shady or very sunny spots, and downspouts/canales or other places where water collects.
Once you have your design, use spray paint or old hoses to lay it out on the ground. Walk around the space and make changes as needed.
Before demolition and removal of the lawn, call 811 to mark underground utilities. Also note existing tree roots that you need to protect during your work.
Lawn removal techniques: A sod cutter works best for most lawns unless there are large roots or the grass is Bermuda. Hand dig grass out around large roots so as not to cut any that are more than 2” thick. Use an herbicide to kill Bermuda due to its invasive and prolific roots. Along sidewalks you’ll want to dig down 4” by 12” wide to make room for 3” of mulch and slope the soil back up to the surrounding grade gently. Avoid using a skid steer to remove the grass, this can unnecessarily remove useful existing topsoil.
Drainage Considerations: Always grade water away from your house, masonry walls or walking paths and towards planting areas.
Install any hardscape elements such as walls, pergolas, sidewalks, pavers and boulders.
STEP 4
IRRIGATION
You’ll use a drip system to irrigate your new beautiful desert friendly xeriscape. Check that your existing spray valves are in good working condition. If so, you can reuse these valves. Simply have a licensed irrigator or plumber add a pressure reducer after the valve, then you can add your ½” drip polyline.
Irrigation Components: If your existing valves are damaged or non-functional you’ll need to install new ones. Typically, an irrigation specialist or licensed plumber would install your new manual shut-off valve, automatic valves, box, backflow preventers and pressure reducers. But if you want to do it yourself, do your research and reach out to local landscape irrigation suppliers for advice.
Drip Tubing: The drip tubing is everything downstream of the pressure reducers, and it’s relatively easy for homeowners to install. Uncoil the ½” or ¾” poly tubing in the sun until it’s flexible enough to manage (making sure there are no kinks in the process). Then, dig shallow 6” trenches, lay out the ½” poly in the trench, staking it with 6” weed fabric staples along the way, and snake the poly within a few feet of the plant locations. Wait until the plants are installed to cover the poly unless you have long lengths of it without plants.
Install the plants (link to article). Water your new plants with a hose right after they’re installed. You might need to create temporary basins around each plant to keep the water from running off.
At this point, you’ll want to set up the permanent irrigation. Use your drip tubing punch tool to create a hole for the ¼” coupler and ¼” tubing. Always punch the hole in the side of the ½” poly, not the top, so a footstep doesn’t damage the connection. Carve a small trench in the dirt and run the ¼” tubing to the base of the plant and attach the emitter (use a weed fabric staple to hold it in place if necessary). Avoid running ¼” tubing farther than 3 feet in order to keep things orderly. After the ¼” tubing is installed, cover it with dirt to protect it and keep it from being tripped over.
If you’re using gravel, the complexity and layout of your yard will determine whether you install weed barrier fabric before or after planting, but you do want the drip tubing under the weed fabric. For shredded wood chip mulch, lay the irrigation line down over the bare dirt then top with 3-4” of wood mulch.
If the mulch has been delivered in the street or on a concrete driveway, use a square shovel to scoop it up. From there, just load each wheelbarrow full and dump it throughout the yard. Spread it out with a rake and you’re done!
Grass lawns in the greater Albuquerque area need supplemental irrigation to survive our high desert climate. Most residential landscapes are watered by pop-up spray heads that include a sprinkler nozzle set into a spray sprinkler body.
We recommend switching out your older sprinkler nozzles and spray sprinkler bodies for more water efficient ones. Take a look below. They are easy to install; check out the pictures to see how simple it is.
These devices provide pressure regulation at each individual spray head. The sprinkler body is the exterior shell that connects to the irrigation system piping and houses the spray nozzle that applies water to your landscape. WaterSense-labeled spray sprinkler bodies with internal pressure regulation can reduce water waste by providing a consistent flow at the sprinkler nozzle. When the sprinkler body maintains pressure near its optimal operating pressure, the connected nozzle is better able to generate the right amount of water spray and coverage for more uniform distribution of water across the landscape.
Installation is simple. First remove the old spray body by twisting it off and then twist on the new spray body.
High Efficiency Rotating Sprinkler Nozzles (multi-stream)
We also encourage you to change your existing spray heads to high efficiency sprinkler nozzles. These nozzles minimize water waste with unique, multi-trajectory rotating streams that deliver water at a steady rate. This slower application rate allows water to gently soak in at rates that soils can absorb. Use these nozzles to replace the sprinkler head on any conventional spray head body or pop-up sprinkler for water savings of up to 30%.
High efficiency sprinkler nozzles are a great solution for upgrading an old and poorly performing sprinkler system. These nozzles create a heavier droplet that is less affected by wind and reduce misting. These nozzles work especially well with pressure regulating bodies. These heads require longer run times. Don't worry it does not use more water, because rotary nozzles deliver water at a slower rate than typical spray nozzles. Therein lies the efficiency: water saturates deep into the root zone rather than running off and evaporating. This can also help reduce the frequency of runs, thereby saving water.
To make the upgrade, carefully pull the riser out of the sprinkler body, it's spring loaded so keep a hold of it while you unscrew the old nozzle and replace it. After you replace the nozzle you may need to turn the system back on and rotate the body slightly to adjust the spray direction. Pull up the existing nozzles in your sprinklers. While holding them, remove the cap from the sprinkler and install the appropriate spray nozzle, as indicated on the plan. If you are using Hunter brand nozzles be sure to also buy this little orange tool to adjust the spray arc. Rainbird nozzles can be adjusted by turning the ridged rings with your fingers.
Compost is defined in the dictionary as “a mixture that consists largely of decayed organic matter and is used for fertilizing and conditioning land.” Some people call it black gold because adding to your garden can produce dark, crumbly soil that is like gold for your plants.
Courtesy of EPA.gov
Composting requires three ingredients. The first is brown material from your yard like leaves, twigs and pinecones as well as newspapers, paper egg cartons, straw and so on. Green material, or food waste, is the second. For example, vegetable and fruit scraps, coffee grounds, crushed eggshells, or tea bags. The third is moisture — water goes a long way.
A new type of composter has hit the market: electric composters. These are simple indoor recycling machines that are plugged into the wall. The heat, grind and aerate food scraps to speed up the process, creating compost in a very short period. There are many types, some that sit on the counter and some that look like trash bins in your kitchen. One downside is that these machines can be pricey, ranging from $300 to $700.
Photo by Tomsguide.com
Composting Service
The last and perhaps the easiest method may be to drop all your food items into a bucket that you leave on your front porch. A service provider picks up the bucket and composts the material. You pay a monthly fee and after a bit you get compost delivered to your door. Prices are $22 a month for biweekly pickups.
The City of Albuquerque’s Sustainability Office is taking on Food Waste.Are you interested in diverting food scraps from the trash and turning it into compost to feed local soils? Please consider joining one of our community compost co-op sites.
Below are workshop options in April and early May.
Option 1: Take the compost science and hands-on learning classes.
Hands-on learning: Friday, April 25, 2-4pm at Barelas Senior Center’s community compost site. Note: We will plan more hands-on opportunities this summer.
Option 2: Learning Series at Barelas Senior Center.
Tuesday, April 22, 10:30-11:30am, Introduction to compost science and hands-on learning. Participants can choose a free plant!
AND
Tuesday, April 29, 10:30am-noon, Compost science, indoors. Register here.
AND
Tuesday, May 6, 10:30-11:30am, Hands-on learning.
Please help us spread the word about this opportunity to get involved in building healthy soils and community resilience. If you have questions, please email [email protected].
Author: Jill Brown, ASLA, is a landscape architect and owner of My Landscape Coach in Albuquerque. Have a question about the article? [email protected]
