Do you want to walk barefoot across cool, soft grass? Especially on those hot summer days? We’d love for you to do that! We also want you to take care of your lawn in a healthy way that saves the most water.
One might assume that proper lawn care begins in the spring
but creating that beautiful lawn can start at any time. Sometimes it’s even better
to start in the fall. Either way, you need to begin with good soil, full of
organic material that will both provide nutrition and help hold in that
moisture. But if you don’t already have that, how do you get it?
First, dethatch your lawnonce a year. Most lawns need this done when the layer of thatch reaches roughly ½” thick. Cool season grasses, such as bluegrass, need to be dethatched in the fall, whereas warm season grasses, such as Bermudagrass, need to be dethatched in the spring.
Aeratingis the second step needed to keep your lawn as healthy and water efficient as possible. If you have an older lawn, or have highly compacted soil, you should aerate twice a year -- once in the spring and again in the fall. If you are aerating, or hiring someone else to do it, run the irrigation first and flag all your spray heads or rotors. This prevents inadvertently creating the need for sprinkler repairs! Aerate the whole lawn one direction and then again perpendicular to the first pass.
Also, regularly sharpen the blades on your mower and set it up as a mulching mower. Your mowing height should be as high as possible to help maintain a healthy lawn and conserve water.
Watering correctly is most important, so maintain your irrigation system year-round, and follow the Water by the Seasons watering recommendations. Check all the filters on each of your spray heads or rotors, then run your system to ensure that all of your spray nozzles or rotors are aligned and aren’t clogged. Repair or replace anything that isn’t working properly. Also check the base of each spray head to make sure you don’t have a leak at the base. The ground will probably be soft and squishy if there is one. To improve efficiency of your system, choose high efficiency sprinkler nozzles (rebates of $2 are available).
One last thing. Kick those shoes off and go enjoy that lawn!
Author: Richard Perce, Irrigation Efficiency Specialist with the Water Resources Division for the Water Authority. Have a question about the article AskAnExpert@abcwua.org
A lot of things have changed since last spring, but at least one thing is the same: April 1 is still the date on which time-of-day watering rules go into effect for Water Authority customers in Albuquerque and Bernalillo County. That means sprinkler and spray irrigation is not allowed between 11 a.m. and 7 p.m. from now until Oct. 31 in order to minimize losses to wind and evaporation.
Using spray irrigation during the hottest, windiest part of
the day is not efficient. Instead, water in the early morning or in the evening
when it’s cooler. Another good way to avoid water waste is by troubleshooting
your irrigation system on a regular basis to identify leaks and make sure water
is directed properly to the plants. Follow these tips for a desert friendly
yard:
For turf, follow the Water by the Numbers program and adjust your watering schedule as the season changes: Two days per week in April and May, three days per week in the summer, and ramp down again in the fall.
Irrigate only when your plants need it, and water them deeply rather than too frequently. Use a long screwdriver or soil probe to check soil moisture.
Add compost to your soil to increase moisture retention and boost soil fertility.
Mulch around plants to help retain moisture and reduce weeds.
Grow strong and healthy trees by watering infrequently, to a depth of at least 24,” in a wide area around the tree’s canopy. Many of our trees only need deep watering 1 -2 times per month (depending on the species and conditions).
If you suspect
you have an indoor leak, or if you have questions about your landscape and
irrigation system, call our experienced staff for a free one-hour educational phone
consultation. To sign up, visit https://rebates.abcwua.org/ or call 505-842-9287 and press option 4.
Our staff will respond to your
request and schedule a one-hour call between the hours of 9:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m. Monday - Friday.
We will offer
two types of educational phone calls:
Indoor Leak Consultations consist of a full walk through, via telephone, on how to
identify and repair leaks. We aim to educate you on the most effective method
to check for leaks in your home. Topics include, but are not limited to:
How to read your meter
Identify and repair malfunctioning fixtures (tubs, faucets, toilets)
Identify and repair malfunctioning equipment (swamp coolers, water softeners, hot water heaters)
Finding underground leaks
Historical water use
Landscape and Irrigation
Consultations will answer many of your landscape and
irrigation questions. We will also be able to troubleshoot specific situations
and walk you through projects and offer advice and guidance where we can.
Topics include, but are not limited to:
Irrigation scheduling and start-up
Maintaining and repairing broken irrigation systems (it’s easier than you might think!)
Plant identification and basic plant suggestions
Planting and irrigating edible landscapes, including vegetable gardens
As the landscape irrigation season gets under way, inspect your irrigation system for leaks and clogged, broken or missing sprinkler heads and emitters.
Use a pressure gauge to verify that sprinkler heads are operating at recommended pressures, and check and clean all system filters.
Time to follow our Spring Watering Recommendations.
Time to follow our spring watering recommendations. Remember, if it rains more than a half inch you can skip your next scheduled watering time as there is no need for supplemental irrigation.
Shredded woodchip mulch helps soil hold moisture and insulates plant roots on a frosty November morning. Photo credit M. Thompson.
One of the most frequent questions we get at NMSU Extension is, “Should I add fertilizer or amendments to the soil when planting?” The short answer is no. And the long-term answer is an even stronger no.
Soil amendments are materials that are
worked into the soil with the intention of improving soil physical qualities. But
it’s just not that simple. As City of Las Cruces Community Forester Jimmy
Zabriskie said when I asked if he ever recommends using soil amendments when
planting a tree, “Save your money for mulch.” Organic
mulch is
material that sits on top of the soil, providing an insulation layer that helps
control soil temperature, retain moisture, and suppress weeds.
When planting ornamental plants, the
recommended species are the ones with roots that are well adapted to our native
soils. They’re more likely to live long, sustainable lives in our native soils
without amendments. The bottom line: Always put the same soil you dug up right
back into the hole with the new plant, and top dress with a thick layer of
mulch.
Frosty cottonwood leaves add a nice layer on top of several inches of shredded woodchip mulch. Photo credit M. Thompson
As for fertilizers, slow and steady wins this race. As Albuquerque City Forester Joran Viers said recently at a tree planting demo put on by Tree New Mexico and The Nature Conservancy, it helps to think of our trees (and other plants) as marathoners, not sprinters. When fertilizer is applied to trees, they can grow too fast for their own good and are more likely to develop structural problems and other issues. Fertilizers are not recommended at the time of planting perennial plants, either, because we want the plant’s energy to go into root establishment at a healthy rate to support the aboveground growth. The growth hormones necessary for healthy root development are found in the root tips and are made by the plant itself, so adding root stimulator to living roots is not necessary or even helpful. (Side note: Rooting hormone is potentially useful when you’re trying to get roots to grow quickly from cuttings where the roots have been removed completely.) So hold off on fertilizing for at least a few years while your plants are setting down roots.
Research on all sorts of landscape plants has shown that by adding amendments (like organic matter or perlite) to your soil backfill, the initial, short-term results are good. But the interface between the amended soil and the native soil is bad news. Water doesn’t move well across the interface, and neither do roots. With time, the roots may be inclined to stay in the original planting hole and spiral around, so you end up with essentially a potted tree or plant with reduced growth rate, constant water and nutrient stress (because lateral roots never fully developed), heightened vulnerability to pests and diseases, and even an increased falling hazard (think root ball in socket).
Author: Marisa Thompson, PhD, is the Extension Horticulture Specialist for New Mexico State University and is based at the Agricultural Science Center at Los Lunas. For more gardening information, including decades of archived Southwest Yard & Garden weekly columns, visit the NMSU Extension Horticulture page (https://desertblooms.nmsu.edu/), , follow us on social media (@NMDesertBlooms), or contact your County Cooperative Extension office (https://aces.nmsu.edu/county).
We scoured the internet, met
with local experts, and pulled together a great educational resource list for you.
When you’re ready to dig into all there is to know about landscaping in New
Mexico, these resources are ready for you.
Agaves, Yuccas and Related Plants. Mary Irish, Portland
Oregon: Timber Press, 2000.
A Field Guide to the Plants and Animals of the
Middle Rio Grande Bosque. Jean-Luc Cartron, David Lightfoot, Jane
Mygatt, Sandra Brantley and Timothy Lowrey, Albuquerque, New Mexico: University
of New Mexico Press, 2008.
Landscaping with Native Plants of the
Southwest. George
Oxford Miller, Minneapolis, MN: Voyageur Press, 2007
Native Plants for High-Elevation Western
Gardens. Janice
Busco and Nancy R. Morin, Golden, Colorado: Fulcrum Publishing, 2003.
Natural by Design. Judith Phillips, Santa
Fe, NM: Museum of New Mexico Press, 1995.
