Simple Steps to Get Started Designing Your Yard

Simple Steps to Get Started Designing Your Yard

A lot goes into designing a landscape, hence there’s an entire profession called landscape architecture devoted to designing outdoor spaces. We won’t be able to make you a landscape architect today, but we’re sharing six steps to get you started on a great landscape design.

  1. Brainstorm what you want in your yard.

Think of this as a “brain dump,” which simply means you’ll transfer to paper all the things you are considering, imagining, and dreaming of for your yard. First, find a window that looks out onto a part of your yard. Set up a chair there, grab a pen, clear your mind and set a timer for five minutes. Now write down anything and everything that comes into your head that involves your yard. Ready, set, go.

  1. Make a plan.

As the old saying goes, “All good things start with a plan.” It’s true! Think about how you approach your job; more than likely you have a general strategy about the steps you are going to take to perform the tasks on your to-do list. It’s the same with your yard:  Developing a plan will save you time and money, and is more likely to result in a successful end product.

What is a plan? When it comes to landscapes, a plan is a scaled drawing showing your yard from a top-down perspective. To make sure the dimensions are accurate, it’s helpful to start with a “map” of your existing yard.  You can use either a scaled aerial photograph or a surveyor’s plat drawing of the lot on which your house sits, or both.

Scaled aerial photograph. Numerous websites provide free aerial photography.  Google Earth Pro, which can be downloaded for free, allows you to measure distances and save snapshots of satellite photography with a scale bar included.  Though this next step will be a challenge, the aerial photograph can then be opened in a program like Microsoft Paint where you can change the size of the photo and get it to a standard scale (like 1”=10’).  Resizing the aerial photograph to a larger-than-normal page size, like 11”x17”, may make it possible to fit your entire property onto one sheet at the desired scale.  Don’t forget that you can print large pages at a commercial print shop.

Surveyor’s plat drawing.What is a plat? It’s a map, drawn to scale, showing the divisions of a piece of land. This should be included in the huge pack of documents you received when you bought your home. It should show overall property boundaries, and basic dimensions of the home. It sometimes includes existing features such as driveways, and exterior structures like sheds. If it does not show these, you can use a tape measure to measure the structures and hardscape areas such as patios, driveways or sidewalks then note them in pencil on the survey plat.

Once you’ve got your aerial photograph or surveyor’s plat, you may want to buy a book of tracing paper, which is see-through and will enable your next steps.

  1. Take stock of what’s in your yard now

You’ve written down what you want to have in your yard, and you’ve got a photo or drawing showing the actual size of your landscape. Now you are ready to take stock of what’s already in your yard.  Put a piece of tracing paper on top of your aerial photograph or plat plan, and head outside. You’ll want to populate your tracing paper with information on existing conditions like plant locations and names, patio positions, roof downspouts, and drainage patterns. Be sure to locate any special site features, identify problems such as erosion, excess runoff, ugliness and decline, and identify positive attributes such as a good view, a nice specimen plant or typical travel patterns.

You’ll want to note compass directions on your drawings, since we experience large temperature swings in New Mexico it’s important to note the different levels of sun exposure in your yard. Typically, the south side of your house will receive sun all day long. Compare this with the north side of your house, or northern exposure, where the ground is shaded most of the day. Once you understand the different microclimates of your yard you’ll be able to choose plants that grow best in those conditions.

It may be helpful to use multiple sheets of tracing paper that can be layered to create a full picture of your yard’s existing conditions.  For help identifying underground utilities (like water lines) in your yard, call 811 (See https://www.pnm.com/call-before-you-dig1 for more information).

  1. Analyze your landscape -- do you have enough space for what you want?

Now that you have identified all the existing elements in your yard, you can reflect on how well those elements are working. Take some time to walk around your yard and think through all your existing elements and spaces. Keep these questions in mind: Why is this located here? How does this space relate to the others? What are the pros and cons of my existing spaces?

These questions will help you analyze your yard.  Through that process you’ll discover constraints and opportunities for improvement.

  1. Research other landscape designs to get ideas for your yard

Now that you’ve done the hard work above it’s time to look at other people’s designs for some inspiration. The templates provided here were designed for the Water Authority by local landscape designer Judith Phillips, and landscape architects George Radnovich and David Cristiani. These templates can serve as thought-starters to guide homeowners in creating beautiful waterwise landscapes with color, logic, beauty and purpose.

You’ll want to read through each design and note the aspects of each that you like. Circle your favorite plants, materials and how they shape certain spaces. All of this will help inform your landscape design.

Landscape design templates

Kaleidoscapes (509KB PDF)

Judith Phillips creates vivid, striking plant arrangements with abundant textures and rotating, colorful perennials.

Greenscapes (508KB PDF)

David Cristiani combines contouring with groundcovers, grasses, vines, shrubs and trees for a lush, green xeriscape year-round.

Loungescapes (518KB PDF)

George Radnovich blends dramatic native and xeric plants for a spectacular lower-maintenance xeriscape.

Wildscapes (553KB PDF)

Judith Phillips balances copious blooming perennials with intensely aromatic plants to attract abundant local wildlife.

Hotscapes (91KB PDF)

David Cristiani fuses succulent textures and groupings that thrive in full sun and high heat for impressive visual impact.

Coolscapes (503KB PDF)

George Radnovich orchestrates an elegant, simple mixture of ornamental plants and features for north-facing xeriscapes.

  1. Draw out your own design

Now it’s time to try this for yourself. Grab your list of wants from your “brain dump,” pull out your plans with all your notes, and lay out the design templates in front of you. A pen, pencil, rule or scale bar, and some tracing paper will be everything you need to start marking up your plan with your new design ideas.

This is the fun part, all the stuff you just brainstormed, inventoried, analyzed and learned can all come together to help you design a really great landscape. Draw out as many ideas as you like and have fun with it. You are now on your way to a beautiful yard!

Author: Jill Brown, ASLA  Landscape Architect and owner of My Landscape Coach in Albuquerque, NM.

Ice Hazards in the Landscape

Ice Hazards in the Landscape

Icy sidewalks and streets pose a serious danger to the safety of those who use them.  Water Authority customers are subject to fines when water causes ice formation on adjacent property, or the public right-of-way, including sidewalks or other impervious surfaces.

 

Ice violations issued by the Water Authority can range from $20 for a first violation and up to $2,000 for multiple violations. These violations generally occur as a result of irrigation overflow, overspray, and/or malfunctions. If you choose to use your automatic irrigation system during the winter months, please check for the following to avoid ice formation:

 

  • Low head drainage

This generally happens on sloped areas and can be fixed by installing a sprinkler head with a built-in check valve. Many major brands of heads can be retrofitted with a check valve.

  • Misaligned sprinkler

A misaligned sprinkler may cause water to flow into the public right of way. Turn on your irrigation system to check each sprinkler head’s angle and the distance it sprays. Make sure your water use is beneficial to your landscape and not wasted.

  • Overflow

Cut back your watering time. If your landscape needs more water than what is applied before overflow occurs, practice the cycle and soak method. Break up the total watering time in order to allow water to soak in better. For example, instead of running your system one time for 10 minutes in the winter, try running it two times for 5 minutes each with an hour or more between cycles. This allows time in between for the grass to soak up the water.

  • Unrepaired malfunctions

Visually inspect all the components of your irrigation system and repair any issues that may be causing a problem.

  • Watering time

Watering too early or too late can both cause the formation of ice. Mid-day is the best time to apply landscape irrigation in the winter so that water will have time to evaporate before freezing.

 

Ultimately, winterizing your irrigation system for the winter is the best way to avoid ice violations. Click here to learn how to winterize your system. We are happy to assist you with your landscape water needs or to answer your scheduling questions. Call 505.289.3003 to schedule an Outdoor Irrigation Efficiency Consultation today!

 

For further information, view our current Water Waste Ordinance.

How to Plant a Tree

How to Plant a Tree

A correctly planted tree will grow more quickly, will be healthier and more attractive, and will live longer than an incorrectly planted one. A healthy tree will also have a stronger and larger root system better able to draw moisture from the soil. This allows it to better withstand the periodic droughts of arid New Mexico.

When you purchase a new tree from a nursery, it will come one of three ways: As a container tree, a ball and burlapped tree, or a bare-root tree. A containerized tree is simply a tree in a container (usually a plastic pot). Balled-and-burlapped trees are usually larger specimens that have been dug out of the field. After the tree is dug up, its root ball is wrapped in burlap fabric and covered with a wire cage. A bare-root tree, as the name implies, has no covering on the roots at all.  This is often the case with fruit trees.

Container tree

Balled-and-burlapped tree

Bare-root tree

To plant a containerized tree, follow the steps below:

  1. Remove soil and roots from the top of the root ball to expose the root collar. Carefully remove the root ball from the container and set the tree on undisturbed soil in the center of the hole. The root collar should be even with the existing grade of the landscape soil after planting. (see sketch for more information.)
  2. Loosen the soil three to five times the width of the root ball (or as wide as possible) and as deep as the root ball. Tree roots grow best in loosened soil that has pore spaces for water and oxygen. The walls of the hole should be tapered away from the hole.
  3. Trim back roots that have begun to circle the root ball.
  4. Partially fill the hole with soil and firm it slightly. Water thoroughly and finish backfilling the hole with soil. Pack the soil firmly but not tightly around the root ball.
  5. Build a small berm of soil around the root ball. Fill the berm with water two or three times to make sure the soil is completely moist. Thereafter, begin a regular watering schedule.
  6. Place a protective circle of mulch, three feet wide or wider, around the tree. The mulch should not touch the root collar and should be installed at a depth of 3 to 4 inches for best results.
  7. Water your tree regularly. (See post on how to water a newly planted tree)

To plant a balled-and-burlapped (B&B) tree, follow the steps below:

  1. Remove soil and roots from the top of the root ball to expose the root collar. Carefully set the tree on undisturbed soil in the center of the hole. The root collar should be even with the existing grade of the landscape soil after planting. (see sketch for more information.)
  2. Loosen the soil three to five times the width of the root ball (or as wide as possible) and as deep as the root ball. Tree roots grow best in loosened soil that has pore spaces for water and oxygen. The walls of the hole should be tapered away from the hole.
  3. Carefully place the root ball in the center of the hole. The top of the root ball or bottom of the root collar (see photo) should be even with the soil level. Take note of the tree flair in the sketch.
  4. Remove twine or string, burlap, and if the root ball is surrounded by a wire basket, cut and remove the wire basket. Be careful to avoid breaking up the root ball.
  5. Partially fill the hole with soil and firm it slightly. Water thoroughly and finish backfilling the hole with soil. Pack the soil firmly but not tightly around the root ball.
  6. Build a small berm of soil around the root ball. Fill the berm with water two or three times to make sure the soil is completely moist. Thereafter, begin a regular watering schedule.
  7. Place a protective circle of mulch, three feet wide or wider, around the tree. The mulch should not touch the root collar and should be installed at a depth of 3 to 4 inches for best results.
  8. Water your tree regularly. (See post on how to water a newly planted tree)

PRO TIP: If possible, plant trees in valleys and depressions in the landscape so rainwater will naturally collect and give the tree a good soaking. Direct roof downspouts and canals towards trees.

Newly planted trees do, however, need water. Do a thorough watering at planting. Water again about 3 days after the first planting. Then water once a week for the next four weeks. Continue watering once a month for the rest of the winter. Every time you water, make sure it is a deep soak. That means watering to a depth of 24 inches. See how deep am I watering for instructions on how to measure watering depth.

Be sure to add mulch around your new trees. We recommend using an organic mulch installed to a depth of 3 inches around the tree, keeping mulch a few inches away from the trunk of the tree.

Staking a tree is not necessary unless your tree is located in a super windy spot. If you do stake the tree be sure the tie is not too tight. Promptly remove it one year after planting the tree.

Soil amendments are not necessary if you choose the right tree for the native soil conditions in your yard.

Tree Species We Love

Tree Species We Love

There are so many types of trees to choose from. We don’t blame you for being confused. Here are some of our favorites, just a small list of the many trees available here in New Mexico. Before you head out to buy your tree, though, let’s chat a little bit about them.

As you look around town, you’ll notice trees come in all shapes and sizes. The key to choosing the perfect tree for your yard is picking the right tree for the right place. In fact, this phrase is popular among arborists.

When deciding what tree to plant, think about the tree size now and at maturity. It may look small now, but how big will it grow once it’s mature? Make sure you provide enough room for future growth. No one wants branches growing into power lines, roots disrupting your foundation or leaves blocking the solar panels on your neighbor’s house.

Learn about the rate of growth of the tree, too, so you know how long it will take to get to mature height. Other key factors in choosing the perfect tree are understanding what sun exposure the tree likes. Does it like full sun all day? If so, plant it on the south side of the house or in a location where buildings will not block its access to sunlight. Cold hardiness, heat tolerance, soil preference and irrigation needs should all be considered when choosing a tree species.

Trees are also a long-term investment. Take the time now to choose the right tree for the right place and you’ll save money in the long run.

This list of recommended trees is broken into deciduous and evergreen trees.

A deciduous tree loses its leaves annually in the fall.

Evergreen trees shed their leaves or needles periodically, but usually remain green throughout the year.

 

 

Large Deciduous Trees

‘Accolade’ Elm, Ulmus japonica x wilsoniana ‘Morton’

Burr Oak, Quercus marcrocarpa

‘Shademaster’ Honeylocust, Glenditsia triacanthos ‘Shademaster’

Japanese Pagoda Tree, Sophora japonica

Medium Deciduous Trees

Chinese Pistache, Pistacia chinensis

‘Expresso’ Kentucky Coffee Tree, Gymnocladus ‘Espresso-JFS’

Texas Red Oak, Quercus buckleyi

Goldenrain Tree, Koelreuteria paniculata

 

Small Deciduous Trees

Mesquite, Prosopis pubescens

Desert Willow, Chilopsis linearis

Oklahoma Redbud, Cercis candensis var. Texansis ‘Oklahoma’

Purple Chastetree, Vitex agnus-castus

Evergreen Trees

Austrian Pine, Pinus nigra

Scotch Pine, Pinus sylvestris

Whichita Blue Juniper, Juniperus scopulorum ‘Wichita Blue’

Deodor Cedor, Cedrus deodara

Photography Courtesy of: Trees of Corrales, Waterwise Landscapes, My Landscape Coach, and The University of Minnesota

Planting trees in fall

Planting trees in fall

Three reasons why fall is a great time to plant trees:

  1. Trees planted in the fall perform better come spring, compared to those planted in the summer, because tree roots are still active over the winter. This winter root development of newly planted trees, prepares it for spring, allowing its roots to spread out and then help the tree become established faster when temperatures begin to warm again.
  2. If planting a large ‘ball and burlap’ tree, fall offers the best choice for getting the tree species you want. This is when local tree nurseries dig up their trees from the fields and get them ready for sale. If planting a smaller containerized tree (nursery pot), be careful about selecting a tree that has been drought stressed all summer or has been in a container for too long and is too root bound. See this handy cue card for more information about selecting a good quality tree from your local nursery. https://www.urbantree.org/pdf/treequalityonsheet.pdf
  3. Less watering is required in the fall because the soil retains more moisture than in the summer, due to lower temperature, shorter days, and the fact that plants are not transpiring as much water. For tips on watering and caring for a newly planted fall tree, check out our other articles on trees.

Take advantage of our TREEBATES! The Water Authority offers money back on the purchase of new trees and for the care of existing trees such as professional pruning or mulch. Learn more here.

Time to winterize – Prepare your landscape for winter

Time to winterize – Prepare your landscape for winter

November is the time to prepare your landscape for winter. By following the simple recommendations outlined below, you can get your yard ready to endure the coming winter months so it can flourish next spring.

 

How do I prepare my plants for the winter season?

Turf grass:

  • Mow your lawn to a height of 1-2 inches. Grass left too long over the winter can develop brown patches.
  • Aerate the ground before it freezes. Aerating involves penetrating the lawn with small holes to allow air, water and nutrients to reach the roots over winter. Power aerators are available to rent at your local home and garden center, or you can try a strap-on shoe aerator.
  • Remove fallen leaves from the lawn. These may cause damage to the grass if left over the winter.

All other plants:

  • Add mulch to existing plants. Mulch helps retain moisture and keeps the soil a more consistent temperature in the winter. When mulching trees, be sure to leave space around the trunk.

 

Do I need to water my plants in the winter?

Yes! In our area we recommend you continue to water your plants over the winter. But you won’t need to water as often. During the winter, soil retains water for longer periods because of the colder nights and shorter days.

You’ll want to pay attention to how much rain and snow you get in your yard each month. If it has rained more than ½ inch (or snowed more than 6 inches) in the last 4 weeks, then no need to water. If we are having a dry winter (less than ½ inch of precipitation in a month), then your yard is thirsty! Give it a drink.

When watering during the winter, we recommend you water during the warmest part of the day. Below is a chart with watering recommendations.

 

How much do I water my plants during the winter?

Plant Type How often? How deep?
Trees 1 time a month 24 inches
Shrubs 1 time a month 18 inches
Flowering plants 1 time a month 12 inches
Desert accents none none
Groundcover 1 time a month 12 inches
Grass: turf 2 times a month 6 inches
Grass: ornamental 1 time a month 12 inches
Vines 1 time a month 18 inches

 

How do I know how deeply I’m watering my plants?

Testing soil moisture with a long screwdriver.

Use a soil probe or a long screwdriver to test soil moisture. Push the screwdriver into the soil about an hour after you’ve watered your plants. It will go easily into moist soil. Mark and measure how far it went into the ground. That will tell you how deep you have watered that plant. Every yard is different, but once you figure out how long it takes your watering system to water to certain depths, you’ll be set.

 

 

 

Winterize your irrigation system

In a climate where winter temperatures can get below freezing, it may be advisable to “winterize” your irrigation system in order to avoid damage. If water is left in pipes, valves and sprinkler heads during freezing temperatures, that water may expand. You can imagine the results.

The steps you should take to prepare your irrigation system for winter depend on a lot of factors, but the overall goals for winterizing are the same for most systems:

Shut-off valve with sprinkler valve key.

 

  1. Shut off the water supply to your irrigation system
  • Locate your shut-off valve (often hidden in a 3” PVC pipe; sometimes this pipe has a white or yellow cap on it as shown in the photo) and turn it to the right to shut it off

 

 

 

Controller set to the "off"position.

2. Turn off the irrigation system controller (if you have one)

  • Leave your controller plugged in to save programming information for next year
  • Turn the controller dial to OFF.

 

 

 

 

Flush Cap at the end of a drip system.

3. Drain the water from all pipes, valves, and sprinkler heads

  • There are several ways to drain your system. Manual drain valves, automatic drain valves, are blown out with compressed air. This should be left to trained professionals.
  • Local irrigation specialists can be hired to help.
  • If you have an irrigation system with drip hoses, we recommend you locate the end cap (flush cap) of the drip hose and drain out the water.

 

Don’t forget – hose bibs (or faucets located on the outside of your house) can also freeze. Make sure that water to your hose bibs is shut off. Remove any hoses that are connected to hose bibs, and turn on the faucet to allow any trapped water to drain out. On warm winter days, you may want to turn the water back ON in order to water with a hose.