Pink Flamingo is a native grass that is heat, cold, and drought resistant. During late summer into mid-fall, wonderful soft pink airy flower spikes appear. This desert friendly grass is ideal to plant in mass or narrow locations. Add this to your garden to lighten it up with a pop of color!
We love our trees. Trees have a cooling effect in our yards by providing shade and they increase property value. When our trees do not “look good,” we try to help them, but when that one “magic” application does not solve the issue, we are often discouraged. A proper plant diagnosis will help your trees and save you time, money, and energy when dealing with the problem.
Damage to your tree can be caused by a living organism and/or environmental factors. Fungi, bacteria, viruses, nematodes, mites, insects, and animals fall under the living organism category and these tend to attack specific plants. Environmental factors that could affect trees include drought stress, salt injury, chemical injury, winter damage, improper planting, watering, and growing conditions, among others. Damage caused by living organisms can be similar to the damage caused by environmental factors. Here are a few tips to help you conclude what is causing damage to your tree:
First, identify the tree and how old it is. Knowing this will help you become familiar with the best growing conditions for that tree, and what kinds of insects and diseases are specific to it.
Inspect the tree – take a thorough look at the trunk, branches, and leaves. What abnormalities do you notice? Are the leaves discolored, bite marks, abnormal growth, unusual size, odd branches, or is the trunk oozing? What color is it? Does it smell? Do you notice any injuries or scars? Any holes? What size and shape?
Look at the environment where the tree is growing. How was the tree planted (burlap, chicken wire, planted too deep, girdling roots)? What kind of soil is it planted in (sandy, clay, poor drainage, compaction, etc.)? Is the tree near a foundation, driveway, traffic areas, wall structures, etc.? Any construction or change in the landscape around the tree area?
What watering conditions has the tree been subject to (water at the dripline, how much water, water throughout the year, etc.)? How is the water system checked? What is the soil coverage around the tree (rock, bare soil, lawn, organic mulch, etc.)? Any chemical application (herbicide, fertilizer, insecticide, etc.)?
Gather other information. Pictures help a lot to see how the issues have progressed. Collect any insect samples. Record when the symptoms started to appear.
All this information is crucial because symptoms caused by environmental factors can be like those caused by living organisms. In some cases, a lab analysis might be the best option to confirm or dismiss the presence of a pathogen and will help you develop a treatment plan.
Consider this common scenario: A 15-year-old tree grows next to a paved driveway and a wall, with gravel mulch around the base. Underneath the gravel is a plastic layer of weed fabric.
Shallow roots due to heat stress and limited watering. Photography Courtesy of James Vocasek c/o KRQE.com
The tree does not receive enough water for many years and gets no rainwater through the weed fabric. This tree is struggling to develop a good root structure and starts looking unhealthy. Eventually the tree gives up and a strong wind brings it down. In this case, chemical treatment will not improve the tree’s appearance because it is not addressing the true cause of the problem: watering improperly.
Diagnosing what is wrong with your tree will take time, but it is worth it. These local resources can help:
Author: Sara Moran, Extension Horticulture Agent, Bernalillo County, NMSU Cooperative Extension Service. Have a question about the article? AskAnExpert@abcwua.org
The balancing act of watering your trees in the fall and winter is important. Established trees should be watered two to three times a month in the fall season and once a month in the winter season. If not watered properly, trees that get too dry during this time can suffer stress and drought injury. This often does not show up until the heat of the following summer, which then makes trees more susceptible to pests and disease. Fall is the time to set your trees up for winter success.
Other important factors to consider when watering trees:
Newly planted trees (trees planted within 1-3 years), are more susceptible to damage from dry conditions and should be watered more frequently than established trees. Try watering them to a depth of 24 inches three times a month in the fall and twice a month in the winter.
Evergreen trees lose water through their needles in the dry winter air. They need more stored-up water going into the winter season to make up for that. Cold, dry winds can strip water from evergreens faster than their roots can absorb it, too. That is why it is especially important to provide enough water in the fall and during dry, warm spells in the winter.
Even though they lose their leaves, deciduous trees should also not get too dry in the fall and winter. Water acts as an insulator for both the tree and soil. Soil that stays moist will be warmer. Likewise, plant cells that are plump with water will be less susceptible to damage from the cold. Water deciduous trees to a depth of 24 inches twice a month during the fall and once a month in the winter.
When watering any tree, remember to apply water out to the edge of the tree’s canopy drip line. Most established trees have a root spread equal to their height and beyond. Water deeply and avoid spraying foliage. Watering to the right depth depends on your specific soils, so you will want to measure how much water it takes your soils to reach 24 inches deep. Read this article for tips on measuring watering depth.
One of the best things you can do for your trees in the coming months is to add mulch. Layering three to four inches of organic mulch protects the soil from moisture loss and helps regulate soil temperature throughout the winter. Treebates for bulk organic mulch is available.
Pro Tip: "Watering to the right depth and managing the frequency of watering are both very important aspects of keeping our plants healthy throughout the year, but especially in the fall and winter months,” says Patrick Chavez, Trees of Corrales Wholesale Nursery.
Author: Amos Arber, Xeriscape Incentive Inspector, and Certified Arborist with the Water Resources Division for the Water Authority. Photography: Wes Brittenham Pro tip:Trees of Corrales Have a question about the article? AskAnExpert@abcwua.org
September days can have widely varying temperatures, with some days getting into the 90s, but we can count on nights being longer and cooler. This means that plants do not need to be watered as often. Ramping down how often you water your yard is a great way to save money on your water bill and keep plants happy.
After spending the summer putting energy into growing leaves, flowers, and fruit, plants use the fall to store water and energy in their roots for winter survival and spring growth. Proper watering supports this activity.
Ramping down your irrigation does not mean you should stop watering altogether. If you have a lawn, cut back to two days per week. Cut back to two times a month for mature trees (4 times a month for younger trees).
This drought-tolerant groundcover enjoys the heat from adjacent boulders and is wide spreading along walkways. The silver evergreen foliage is a welcome addition in winter. Lavender-purple flowers bloom from spring to summer, attracting pollinators.