Native ornamental grasses play an integral role in a landscape. Throughout the seasons, grasses enhance the beauty of our gardens and are often at their showiest during autumn. They create a masterful mix of hues, textures, and seasonal delight. From their graceful flower clusters that gently dance in the wind to their vibrant plumage and foliage illuminated by the red glow of the sun, grasses create attractive and alluring backdrops while also adding motion and sound to our landscape.
Several considerations should be made before selecting ornamental grasses regardless of the style of the garden. Understanding the site requirements – sun tolerance, water use, and hardiness – as well as the growth form of grasses can help determine which species will be ideal for your landscape. Growing a species with weedy or invasive tendencies in moist habitats, for example, may not be ideal near the bosque. Similarly, growing a variegated variety of grass in a sun-exposed slope could result in blistering and discoloration which may detract from its beauty and health. Being aware of how site conditions and plant characteristics interact can help in selecting ideal species.
Consider adding the following ornamental grasses to the landscape:
Muhly Grasses (Muhlenbergia species)
Muhly grasses (genus Muhlenbergia) are a non-invasive, ornamental grass native to the southwest. These grasses provide a wide range of favorable characteristics and perform well in full sun as well as partial shade. They are also heat and cold tolerant and can persist in most soil conditions. The plumy foliage often described as whispering, is quite attractive when a gentle breeze brings these plants to life. This species range in height from 1½ to 5 feet and has a variety of seed colors and textures blooming from August to November. Pink muhly (Muhlenbergiacapillaries) is an outstanding accent plant with its feathery, pink-hued flowers that float above dark green foliage (typically 3 feet). For a larger accent plant with a more subdued color, Deer grass (Muhlenbergiarigens) can make an excellent addition to any garden with its bright green leaves and slender tan flower stalks reaching upwards of 6 feet.
Big Bluestem Grass (Andropogon gerardii)
Several cultivars of the native prairie grass Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii) can be spectacular in a landscape and reach heights up to 6 feet. ‘Red October’ is a common cultivar that boasts year-round visual interest. It emerges in the spring with vibrant red foliage that transitions to a striking scarlet color for the remainder of the season. ‘Rain Dance’ Big Bluestem is also a very showy cultivar, providing maroon foliage in both summer and fall. These clump-forming grasses will grow in attractive mounds that add wonderful accents or backgrounds to the landscape in higher elevation plantings like the East Mountains.
Prairie Dropseed Grass (Sporobolus heterolepis)
Prairie Dropseed Grass (Sporobolus heterolepis) is an exceptional bunch of grass that reaches 2 to 3 feet in height. This grass creates a fountain-like effect with its finely textured foliage – bright green in the summer and delightfully golden in the fall. Its flower spikes create a cloud of texture that becomes airier with see-through seed heads in autumn. Moreover, Prairie Dropseed Grass performs well in a wide range of conditions and soil types and is an excellent drought-tolerant addition to the landscape.
On top of their inherent aesthetic value, ornamental native grasses provide refuge and forage for pollinators and wildlife, which enhance the landscape’s ecosystems. Many bird species feast on the seeds of grasses, while the larval stage of butterflies use native grasses to shelter through the winter. For these reasons, ornamental grasses should be left uncut until early spring where they can be trimmed to encourage new growth. Incorporating ornamental grasses is a beautiful way to impart functionality and complexity to any landscape. Autumn is the perfect time to enjoy all that these grasses have to offer.
Author: Alissa Freeman, plant ecologist with an M.S. in Plant Biology, Ecology, and Evolution, has worked with NMSU Plant Extension and the City of Albuquerque on using native plants to enhance pollinator habitats. Photography: by Hunter Ten Broeck of Waterwise Landscapes and Judith Phillips of Design Oasis. Have a question about the article? AskAnExpert@abcwua.orgCaption for Feature Photo: Karl Forester Grass plumes with pink Bush Muhly grass located behind it.
We love our trees. Trees have a cooling effect in our yards by providing shade and they increase property value. When our trees do not “look good,” we try to help them, but when that one “magic” application does not solve the issue, we are often discouraged. A proper plant diagnosis will help your trees and save you time, money, and energy when dealing with the problem.
Damage to your tree can be caused by a living organism and/or environmental factors. Fungi, bacteria, viruses, nematodes, mites, insects, and animals fall under the living organism category and these tend to attack specific plants. Environmental factors that could affect trees include drought stress, salt injury, chemical injury, winter damage, improper planting, watering, and growing conditions, among others. Damage caused by living organisms can be similar to the damage caused by environmental factors. Here are a few tips to help you conclude what is causing damage to your tree:
First, identify the tree and how old it is. Knowing this will help you become familiar with the best growing conditions for that tree, and what kinds of insects and diseases are specific to it.
Inspect the tree – take a thorough look at the trunk, branches, and leaves. What abnormalities do you notice? Are the leaves discolored, bite marks, abnormal growth, unusual size, odd branches, or is the trunk oozing? What color is it? Does it smell? Do you notice any injuries or scars? Any holes? What size and shape?
Look at the environment where the tree is growing. How was the tree planted (burlap, chicken wire, planted too deep, girdling roots)? What kind of soil is it planted in (sandy, clay, poor drainage, compaction, etc.)? Is the tree near a foundation, driveway, traffic areas, wall structures, etc.? Any construction or change in the landscape around the tree area?
What watering conditions has the tree been subject to (water at the dripline, how much water, water throughout the year, etc.)? How is the water system checked? What is the soil coverage around the tree (rock, bare soil, lawn, organic mulch, etc.)? Any chemical application (herbicide, fertilizer, insecticide, etc.)?
Gather other information. Pictures help a lot to see how the issues have progressed. Collect any insect samples. Record when the symptoms started to appear.
All this information is crucial because symptoms caused by environmental factors can be like those caused by living organisms. In some cases, a lab analysis might be the best option to confirm or dismiss the presence of a pathogen and will help you develop a treatment plan.
Consider this common scenario: A 15-year-old tree grows next to a paved driveway and a wall, with gravel mulch around the base. Underneath the gravel is a plastic layer of weed fabric.
Shallow roots due to heat stress and limited watering. Photography Courtesy of James Vocasek c/o KRQE.com
The tree does not receive enough water for many years and gets no rainwater through the weed fabric. This tree is struggling to develop a good root structure and starts looking unhealthy. Eventually the tree gives up and a strong wind brings it down. In this case, chemical treatment will not improve the tree’s appearance because it is not addressing the true cause of the problem: watering improperly.
Diagnosing what is wrong with your tree will take time, but it is worth it. These local resources can help:
Author: Sara Moran, Extension Horticulture Agent, Bernalillo County, NMSU Cooperative Extension Service. Have a question about the article? AskAnExpert@abcwua.org
The balancing act of watering your trees in the fall and winter is important. Established trees should be watered two to three times a month in the fall season and once a month in the winter season. If not watered properly, trees that get too dry during this time can suffer stress and drought injury. This often does not show up until the heat of the following summer, which then makes trees more susceptible to pests and disease. Fall is the time to set your trees up for winter success.
Other important factors to consider when watering trees:
Newly planted trees (trees planted within 1-3 years), are more susceptible to damage from dry conditions and should be watered more frequently than established trees. Try watering them to a depth of 24 inches three times a month in the fall and twice a month in the winter.
Evergreen trees lose water through their needles in the dry winter air. They need more stored-up water going into the winter season to make up for that. Cold, dry winds can strip water from evergreens faster than their roots can absorb it, too. That is why it is especially important to provide enough water in the fall and during dry, warm spells in the winter.
Even though they lose their leaves, deciduous trees should also not get too dry in the fall and winter. Water acts as an insulator for both the tree and soil. Soil that stays moist will be warmer. Likewise, plant cells that are plump with water will be less susceptible to damage from the cold. Water deciduous trees to a depth of 24 inches twice a month during the fall and once a month in the winter.
When watering any tree, remember to apply water out to the edge of the tree’s canopy drip line. Most established trees have a root spread equal to their height and beyond. Water deeply and avoid spraying foliage. Watering to the right depth depends on your specific soils, so you will want to measure how much water it takes your soils to reach 24 inches deep. Read this article for tips on measuring watering depth.
One of the best things you can do for your trees in the coming months is to add mulch. Layering three to four inches of organic mulch protects the soil from moisture loss and helps regulate soil temperature throughout the winter. Treebates for bulk organic mulch is available.
Pro Tip: “Watering to the right depth and managing the frequency of watering are both very important aspects of keeping our plants healthy throughout the year, but especially in the fall and winter months,” says Patrick Chavez, Trees of Corrales Wholesale Nursery.
Author: Amos Arber, Xeriscape Incentive Inspector, and Certified Arborist with the Water Resources Division for the Water Authority. Photography: Wes Brittenham Pro tip:Trees of Corrales Have a question about the article? AskAnExpert@abcwua.org
Your irrigation system is only as good as its aim. Adjust sprinklers and emitters to make sure they are delivering water to the landscape and not onto rocks, bare earth or pavement.
June is a great time to check and replace any clogged spray nozzles or drip emitters. Remember, each spray head also has its own filter insert that needs checked as well.
Watering Recommendations: Summer is here and so are hotter temperatures! Follow the Water by the Seasons Summer watering recommendations to keep your yard looking healthy. For turf, water 2-3 times per week. Start watering your trees and shrubs 1 time per week to keep them looking good.
Remember, if it rains more than a half inch you can skip your next scheduled watering as there is no need for supplemental irrigation.
The amount of water needed and where that water should be applied changes as woody plants (such as trees, shrubs and vines) get larger. Woody plant material has two types of roots, stabilizing roots and feeder roots. Both types of roots do just what their name implies. Stabilizing roots are thick and dense to keep the plant in place and support its weight. Feeder roots are super fine and grow more like a net to take in water and nutrients. Feeder roots expand out as the plant grows.
Some woody plants require more water as they mature, but more desert-friendly species may not require extra water or may even be able to survive without supplemental irrigation once established. Perennials normally do not need to have expanded watering the same way woody plants do as they mature.
Some examples of this:
Plant Type
Plant
1st summer
2nd summer
3rd summer
Tree
Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis)
60 gallon per month
120 gallons per month
400 gallons per month
Shrub
Butterfly Bush (Buddleia davidii)
60 gallon per month
70 gallon per month
100 gallon per month
Desert-Friendly Shrub
Chamisa (Ericameria nauseosa)
20-30 gallons per month
20-30 gallons per month
Usually possible to remove from irrigation
Vine
Trumpet Vine (Campsis radicans)
40 gallons per month
60 gallons per month
100 gallons per month
Woody Groundcover
Prostrate Sumac (Rhus trilobata)
20-30 gallons per month
40 gallons per month
60 gallons per month
For those plants that do have increased irrigation needs as they mature here are three easy ways to apply the right amount of water in the right place depending on the type of irrigation you are using.
Drip Emitters – Move the drip emitters out to stay in line with the outer edge of the plants leaves where the feeder roots will be. Increase the number of emitters watering the plant too, placing them evenly around the outer perimeter of the plant.
Netafim (in-line professional drip line) – this is typically installed in rings around the plant and additional rings can be added as the plant grows larger. Netafim can also be laid out in a grid pattern, particularly when being installed around an already established plant.
Hand-watering – Build and maintain a watering well at the outer edge of the plant perimeter. As the plant grows, increase the size of the well.
Author: Richard Perce, Irrigation Efficiency Specialist with the Water Resources Division for the Water Authority. Have a question about the article AskAnExpert@abcwua.org
Service: April’s freeze
may have damaged your irrigation system, so make sure to inspect it for leaks,
or broken sprinkler heads and emitters!
Watering Recommendations: Spring rains are benefitting established landscapes! Follow these watering recommendations to keep your yard looking healthy: for grass (turf), water one-two times per week and for your trees water one-two times per month. To know how much to water, follow our Water by the Seasons spring watering recommendations. Remember, if it rains more than a half inch you can skip your next scheduled watering time as there is no need for supplemental irrigation.
