Efficiently Watering on a Slope Requires a Few Simple Steps for Your Plants to Thrive.

Efficiently Watering on a Slope Requires a Few Simple Steps for Your Plants to Thrive.

Regardless of how you water, you will want to create a berm, or raised “dam,” on the downside when planting on a slope. This berm captures any rainfall coming down the slope, detaining it long enough to soak in, and also holds water that comes from irrigation or hand-watering. By cutting away part of the slope on the upside of the plant, there’s additional room to capture and retain more water. Our diagram (put the word “above” or “below” here, as is appropriate) shows these methods using a berm with wood mulch. Our preference is to create the berm out of soil and apply shredded wood mulch inside the well created by the berm because shredded wood mulch will help moisture stay longer in the soil.

If you are watering plants by hand, turn down the pressure and place the hose on the uphill side of the plant so the water runs into the well and the berm slowly. By doing it this way, you will have to repair the well and berm less frequently. If you are watering with a bubbler or drip system, always make sure that the bubblers or emitters are placed on the upside of the slope and the plant so the water comes down the slope into the well and has a chance to penetrate the root zone located in the well and bermed area. Finally, if you are watering plants on a slope with Netafim (in-line emitter drip tubing), you can place the loops or grid of tubing throughout the well area, held in by the berm. The water will drip very slowly and be contained within the bermed well.

Having grass on slopes is discouraged because it is very difficult to keep your grass healthy without watering inefficiently. If you need to water grass on slopes, please carefully check out the section of our irrigation efficiency guide on cycle and soak.

By following these simple steps, you should be able to efficiently water and successfully plant on a slope.

Learn More Here:

Steps for Improving Your Irrigation Efficiency

Drip Irrigation Maintenance Checklist

Yes, you can afford and irrigation system

Author:  Richard Perce, Project Manager and Landscape Designer, Groundwork Studio. Have a question about the article? AskAnExpert@abcwua.org
Purple Rockrose, Cistus x purpureus

Purple Rockrose, Cistus x purpureus

Type: Evergreen

Exposure: Full sun to Part Shade

Water Use: Low

Mature Size: 3’-4’ H x 4’-5’ W

This beautiful, low-maintenance evergreen xeric plant has beautiful dark green leaves that nicely contrast with grey/green natives. It is a great, aromatic shrub for courtyards, patios and entryways, with large 3” pink blooms that appear in late spring for a few weeks.  

Austrian Copper Rose, Rosa foetida ‘Bicolor’

Austrian Copper Rose, Rosa foetida ‘Bicolor’

Type: Deciduous

Exposure: Full sun to partial shade

Water Use: Medium

Mature Size: 6’ H x 8’ W

Austrian copper rose, which blooms in June, has flowers that are copper red on the upper surface and yellow on the lower. It is an old cultivar of shrub rose that’s been around in New Mexico for a long time. This rose grows tall with arching stalks and spreads around the garden. It’s an attention-getter when used as a backdrop or screening plant along a wall or fence, especially when it’s in bloom! Placing grey/green plants with strong texture in front of the rose adds interest. When fall arrives, the leaves turn yellow.

Photography by Hunter Ten Broeck

Rain Garden Landscape Type

Rain Garden Landscape Type

The Albuquerque metro area has a wide variety of landscape types, which include desert-friendly landscapes, lush pollinator-friendly xeriscapes and wildscapes or prairie plantings where native grasses and wildflowers bring the feel of a prairie to a yard. Rain gardens are specifically designed to make the most of natural precipitation, while edible landscapes have garden beds or edible plants interspersed throughout them. Efficient turfscapes have smaller areas of turfgrass and diverse plantings. Conventional turfscapes, with large areas of cool-season grasses and high-water foundation shrub plantings, are no longer considered desert-friendly landscapes. The term “desert-friendly” now describes a variety of landscapes that include beautiful, diverse plantings with increased resiliency achieved through efficient watering.

Rain gardens, a subset of xeriscapes, maximize the benefits of active and passive rainwater harvesting. Plant choices become more critical, particularly if the intent is to use little supplemental irrigation.

Pro Tips for Rain Gardens:

* Direct any overflow from a rain barrel or cistern into a passive water harvesting system.

* Prioritize trees for passive rainwater harvesting.

* Choose low-water and rainwater-only plants for the best results.

* Contour the soil to create gentle berms that drain better. Put water-loving plants in the low spots (swales) where rainwater and irrigation water collect.

Learn more here:

Water Harvesting for Residential Landscapes

Learn How to Harvest Rainwater in Your Yard

Passive Rainwater Field Guide by BERNCO

Author:  Have a question about the article? AskAnExpert@abcwua.org

The “Wow Factor” – Summer Containers Simplified

The “Wow Factor” – Summer Containers Simplified

One of our favorite things to do at Bennu Organics is design container gardens. We like to talk about the “wow factor,” and containers are a fantastic way to add stunning, season-long color to our landscapes without digging a single hole in our hard, unforgiving soil.

Here are six helpful hints for creating your own successful container designs:

1) Location: Will the containers be in full sun, partial sun or full shade? In most cases, full sun containers in New Mexico require daily watering. If you don’t want to water every day, consider selecting plants that require less water, like succulents, cacti or perennials. Placing containers in partial shade will also save water. It’s important to know the amount of sunlight you will have available for each container prior to purchasing plants.

2) Size: What size are the containers, or what size do you want them to be if you’re purchasing them? You’ll need plenty of soil to fill or refresh the containers, and you want to make sure you have enough plant material to give your containers a nice, full look.

3) Design: Well-designed containers require three types of plants: thrillers, fillers and spillers. The thriller is something tall and showy, while fillers are shorter plants that fill in the spaces. Spillers are those low vining-type plants that spill gracefully over the sides of the container.

4) Color theme: I like picking a color palette and then selecting different plants within that palette. I don’t want my containers to be identical, but I do want them to complement each other. Also, depending on the locations of the containers, I will often do a “mirror image” design if the containers are on either side of an entry way, for example.

5) Lighting and water: Select plants that have similar lighting and water requirements. You don’t want to put a cactus as a thriller and wave petunias as your filler. One or both will suffer from too much or a lack of water.

6) Maintenance: Besides watering consistently, you will want to trim and deadhead your designs frequently. Petunias and calibrachoa (classified both as fillers and spillers) need regular deadheading to keep the blooms going strong. Trim them heavily when they get “leggy.” They respond well to a really good haircut. If you are consistent with your maintenance and watering, the containers should keep their “wow factor” all season long. Also, regular fertilizing is crucial to maintaining season-long blooms. In the active growing season, we fertilize our containers every two weeks.

While the following list of possible plants you can use in containers is hardly comprehensive, it should help get your creative juices flowing:

Shade/Part Shade

Thrillers: caladium, alocasia, sansevieria/dracaena, colocasia, cordyline, etc.

Fillers: bacopa, begonias, Boston fern, caladium, coleus, begonias, dusty miller, impatiens, etc.

Spillers: asparagus fern, tradescantia, creeping wire vine, dichondra ‘Silver Falls’, helichrysu, ‘Licorice Vine’, ivy geranium, variegated lamium, lobelia, Tahitian bridal veil, vinca major/minor, (vine), etc.

Full Sun/Partial Sun

Thrillers: lantana, papyrus, pentas, purple fountain grass, dracaena spikes, small topiaries and trees, etc.

Fillers: nemesia, nierembergia, osteospermum, pentas, petunia, calibrachoa, salvia, etc.

Spillers: plectranthus, portulaca, trailing petunia, vinca (vine), verbena, and sweet potato vine (Ipomoea batatas), etc

Finally, your container designs should bring you joy, so get creative! What do you love? What are your goals? Do you want to attract hummingbirds and butterflies? Do you want fragrance? Do you want a color explosion, or are you looking for something more subdued? Your containers should reflect their designer, so pick things that you really enjoy — not just the plants you see on Pinterest or in magazines, although if you love the ones you see in those places, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery! Some people like to use all annuals, some like a combination of annuals and perennials and some even add edible plants into their designs. The sky is the limit!

As with all things related to plants, design and gardening, remember that everything we do is a grand experiment. Don’t feel guilty if you mistakenly combine a low-water plant and a high-water plant in the same container and one of them dies. Learn from your experience and simply replace the dead plant with something more suitable.

Learn more about gardening here:

Easy pollinator gardening

Easy Edible Plants for First Time Growers

Water Harvesting for Residential Landscapes

5 Steps to Stunning Fall Container Gardens

Author: Rae Bennu, Bennu Organics, BennuOrganics.com Have a question about the article? AskAnExpert@abcwua.org