A lot goes into creating a landscape plan, and it helps to have some expert help. Landscape architects specialize in designing outdoor spaces. Today, we’re sharing a plan particularly suited to our climate by New Mexico landscape designer David Cristiani. You can follow this design right down to each individual plant or customize it to fit your own yard. We’ll be sharing two more landscape plans in future issues of 505Outside.
Many plants from higher elevations or moister areas struggle when subjected to the long, torrid summers common in Albuquerque. The plants in this landscape are intended to thrive on heat, limited irrigation and minimal care — while exploding the popular myth that cacti and succulents look stark and don’t belong near our homes.
The Hotscape design embraces the environmental and visual qualities of Albuquerque’s high Southwestern desert location. Two areas of compacted crusher fines serve as a combined pathway, informal sitting area and a channel to harvest water from the occasional storm. A low berm provides visual interest, keeping the plants that cannot tolerate much extra moisture dry.
Modeled after the strikingly attractive and often evergreen plant communities native to the edges of Albuquerque, this design provides a great deal of visual interest throughout the year. The open, irregular canopies of Chinese pistache and screwbean mesquite provide filtered shade in summer and warming sunshine in the winter — an effect suggesting a desert arroyo. Fourwing saltbush screens the view to the street, and the dark, compact turpentine bush adds a pleasant fragrance with yellow fall flowers. The last, crucial ingredient to this design is the generous use of native desert accent plants, including the bold, blue-green forms of sotol, desert prickly pear and banana yucca. These local signature plants are accented further with small masses of seasonal color from low perennials and groundcovers, attracting both hummingbirds and passing neighbors!
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Creating a landscape plan is a complicated endeavor. Luckily for home gardeners, landscape architects specialize in designing outdoor spaces. Today, we’re sharing a unique plan by New Mexico landscape designer David Cristiani to give you some inspiration and ideas for designing your own yard. We’ll be sharing three more landscape plans in future issues of 505Outside.
Green spaces and water conservation need not conflict, nor does an oasis require the use of high-water-use and high-maintenance turf grass at the exclusion of native plants and succulents. This typical front yard area contains mostly evergreen plantings and an inviting entry experience to welcome guest and owner alike, no matter the season. A low wall and climbing evergreen vines combine to provide additional screening and intimacy for sitting out on the front porch and also extend the architecture into the plantings. While designed for a smaller front area, the plantings can be increased in scale and number to fill a larger property.
The sculptural and leafy forms of an evergreen escarpment live oak grouping provide a canopy to the plantings below, which offer seasonal interest using native and adapted species. Native bear grass provides a soft yet bold texture, as do the spiky flower stalks of red hesperaloe, or red yucca. The loose forms of colorful desert globemallow provide masses of pink-toned flowers throughout much of the growing season. Germander and trailing rosemary generously fill in the ground surfaces with dark green color, fragrance and seasonal flowers. Durable materials prevail, while the plant spacing provides both screening from adjacent neighbors and ample room to access both sides of the home.
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Albuquerque has a variety of soil types. Learning what type of soil is in your yard is a critical step to understanding how water will infiltrate the soil and how long specific plants need to be watered to get the water to the correct depth.
VALLEY SOILS
Valley soils vary from dense clay to grainy sand. They are layered and braided through the area because of the historic flooding of the Rio Grande. The valley also is where acequias weave through the community, providing many essential benefits. They provide water for creating foodsheds and are culturally significant for our community. They also help create and maintain our tree canopy and provide much needed pollinator habitat. This remains particularly important in our changing climate.
EAST MESA AND FOOTHILLS SOILS
The soils in the foothills are usually coarse, whereas the decomposed granite soils on the mesa are generally finer and prone to compaction. These soils have a broad range of organic material along with the base of decomposed granite, making for a huge diversity, even within a building site. Groundwater is deep — only shallow enough to be occasionally accessible to plants in unpaved arroyos near the foothills and stormwater basins fed by urban pavement.
WEST MESA SOILS
West Mesa soils, which vary from silty clay loam to finer sands, are sometimes deposited in a shallow layer above volcanic basalt. Groundwater is too deep to be accessible to most plants except in large stormwater collecting basins.
EAST MOUNTAIN SOILS
East Mountain soils tend to be a mix of moisture-retaining clay loams with some fast-draining gravelly deposits. The density and type of plant cover reflect the relative soil moisture. In upslope areas, where temperatures are consistently cooler and rain and snow more abundant, shrubland transitions to mixed conifer forest. Slopes tend to be drier than depressions, which accumulate moisture.
HOW WATER MOVES THROUGH DIFFERENT SOILS
Water soaks into sandy soils much more quickly than in clay soils, but it travels downward in a narrow pattern. In clay soils, the water travels much more slowly and spreads out in a much wider pattern.
Pro Tips:
• Plants in sandy soils generally need additional emitters to distribute water more evenly in a root zone. They also may need to be watered more frequently but for shorter amounts of time.
• Plants in clay soils generally need fewer emitters because the water spreads out. They will probably need to be watered less frequently but for longer periods.
• All soils need to drain between waterings to allow oxygen back into the soil pores.
A struggling plant may be receiving too much water. If soil stays saturated, plants will drown. Since there is a lot of clay in our soils, it is very easy to drown plants. A drowning plant often has similar symptoms to one not receiving enough water: wilted leaves and poor color. Always check soil moisture with a moisture meter before adding more water.
PERFORMING A JAR TEST TO DETERMINE SOIL TYPE
An easy way to get a better idea of what type of soil you are working with is to conduct a jar test. A jar test will separate the three main components of soil: sand, silt and clay. These determine the soil texture that contributes to drainage and overall plant health.
Most building sites, including home sites and the land directly surrounding them, have areas of heavy compaction. When soil is compacted, pore space that allows oxygen and water to get to the root zone is reduced, building an impermeable layer in the soil.
Soil compaction adversely affects percolation rates (the movement of water through the pores) and makes it much harder for roots to expand within the soil and thrive.
HOW TO TEST THE PERCOLATION RATE IN SOIL
If you do a jar test you will have a pretty good idea what percentage of sand, silt and clay make up your soil. Performing a percolation test will allow you to see how your soil interacts with water.
TOOLS NEEDED:
Shovel, yardstick, timer/watch, pen, paper and hose
To get your hourly percolation rate, divide how long it takes the water to drop 2 inches by 120. A soil percolation rate between 1 and 3 inches per hour is adequate for plants with average drainage needs. If the rate is less than 1 inch per hour, drainage is too slow, and the soil will either need to be improved by adding compost or planted with plants that tolerate wet soils. Watering should be less frequent but longer.
If the drainage is more than 4 inches per hour, it is too fast. Soil will need to be amended with compost and other organic matter either by digging it in or using it as a top dressing. Watering should be more frequent and for shorter time periods.
WHY IS MY SOIL COMPACTED?
Many things — including construction, heavy equipment or vehicles, or a lack of organic matter — can create compacted soil that won’t allow water to drain. One way to prevent further compaction is to park your vehicles and store heavy items only in your driveway or on soil devoid of trees or landscaping.
HOW DO I IMPROVE MY SOIL?
Add organic matter (compost) to clay to make it more permeable and add compost to sand to improve its water-holding capacity.
Add a deep (3”-4”) layer of organic mulch to help all soil types retain moisture better, suppress weeds and feed soil microorganisms. Native and low water use, desert friendly plants do not need compost. Although they will grow slowly in uncompacted native soil, they thrive best there.
A lot goes into designing a landscape; hence, there’s an entire profession called landscape architecture devoted to designing outdoor spaces. We won’t be able to make you a landscape architect today, but we’re sharing a unique landscape plan designed by New Mexico landscape designer Judith Phillips to get you inspired with ideas for designing your own yard. We’ll be sharing five more landscape plans in future issues of 505Outside.
Plant for wildlife and you will host a never-ending garden party. Wildscapes should have tiers of canopy to provide shelter and food for a wide variety of wildlife, including birds, hummingbirds, bees and butterflies. Tall trees provide shade and shelter. Dense thickets of middle-height shrubs provide spaces for roosting and nesting and also give the landscape a sense of enclosure. Open areas with low-growing groundcovers provide areas for nesting and foraging, and the colorful flowers and berries appeal to people as well as winged visitors. A mix of evergreen plants for cover, brilliant flowers for nectar and pollen, and fruits and seeds ripening through the seasons will keep your wildlife friends fat and happy. In this wildscape, the gayfeather, dwarf goldenrod, leadplant, yarrow, rue, grasses and dwarf butterfly bush are lures for butterflies. Hummingbirds are drawn to plants with nectar-rich tubular flowers, such as desert willow, penstemons, cherry sage, coral honeysuckle and red yucca. Local songbirds and quail will be attracted by New Mexico olive, sumacs, creosote bush, desert mule’s ear, coneflowers, shadscale, gayfeather and algerita.
Designed by Judith Phillips, author of Plants for Natural Gardens
Learn more about specific types of gardening here:
A lot goes into designing a landscape, hence there’s an entire profession called landscape architecture devoted to designing outdoor spaces. We won’t be able to make you a landscape architect today, but we’re sharing a unique landscape plan designed by landscape architects to get you inspired with ideas for designing your own yard. We’ll be sharing five more landscape plans in future issues of the 505Outside.
This Coolscape Landscape Plan is designed to provide an attractive streetside landscape as well as a comfortable, private area that is usable even in the winter. The privacy is achieved with a low wall (which should match or complement the house) and a grove of small trees, such as New Mexico olives or chaste trees. The placement of the trees effectively adds to the privacy and provides a backdrop along the edge of the brick patio. All the trees create lots of shade, adding to the coolness of the yard.
The courtyard patio was placed to provide some sun even on an east exposure. Beneath the trees, a groundcover of ornamental oregano grows in the sunnier spots and Kinnikinnick, in those most shady. For the best use of rainwater, the brick patio should be slanted to drain away from the house and into the surrounding planting beds. The edge of the patio on the north side of the yard ends in a bed of fine crushed gravel to create a path to the rear yard. Plants that do best on the cold north exposure of homes, such as Karl Forester ornamental grass and Indian hawthorn, are used to cope with the lack of sun, which in turn makes them more drought tolerant. Likewise, Arizona rosewood is used along the south exposure to capture as much warmth and sun as possible. Lastly, an ornamental clump buffalo grass in combination with a smaller specimen of the red yucca called Brake Light is planted along the front easternmost portion of the yard where it will be the most drought tolerant.
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Author: George Radnovich, FASLA Owner of Sites Southwest orchestrates an elegant, simple mixture of ornamental plants and features for north-facing xeriscapes. Have a question about the article? AskAnExpert@abcwua.org
Homeowners are constantly looking for that perfect plant for that exact spot. Unfortunately, there isn’t a simple answer. Landscape designers know there are so many factors that go into placing the right plant in the right place. Sun-loving plants should be planted in sunny spaces. Shade-loving plants should be placed under trees or next to walls where they’ll be protected from our intense New Mexico sun. Be sure the area is big enough to accommodate the plant when it reaches its full mature size, and remember to place plants with similar water needs together.
One of the most frequent requests is for a year-round green plant that hides and blocks an ugly view. For a narrow space (4’ and smaller) next to a wall or a neighbor’s driveway, check out the Skyrocket juniper. It’s a blue-green, narrow columnar tree growing 15 feet tall and only four feet wide, making it the narrowest of the juniper trees. A hedge of these works great in a small narrow space where you need some height. If your space is a little wider and you want some variety, you could add Texas ranger (also known as Texas sage) and ornamental grasses.
Whichita Juniper in narrow space screening the wall.
For those two-feet-wide spaces where you don’t have the room for a wide plant but you need lots of height, you’ll want to choose vines. For sun and light shade areas choose Lady Banks roses or desert coral honeysuckle. You’ll want to keep them in check by training them up a trellis until you get the desired coverage in the very narrow space.
Lady Banks Rose Vine in narrow space.
When you have a 5’- 6’ wide area — like along a driveway or between property lines — try planting curl-leaf mountain mahogany, evergreen, narrow. In our area you’ll see it used along a driveway to create privacy between neighbors. You can vary the space by interplanting it with New Mexico olive, which has a similar shape and size, or ornamental grasses like giant sacaton and muhlenbergia rigens (deer grass), if you want more visual contrast. To add some blue-green to the mix, bring in an Artemisia species like prairie sage as ground cover.
Mountain Mahogany along driveway trained to be a natural screen between houses.
Another tried and true combination is the Arizona rosewood and prickly pear. They are beautiful together, plus they require little to no water after established.
Arizona Rosewood and Prickly Pear screening a wall.
Author: Jill Brown, ASLA, is a Landscape Architect and owner of My Landscape Coach in Albuquerque, NM. Have a question about the article? AskAnExpert@abcwua.org
